Simple cylinder shaped gas tanks...

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rockhopper

New Member
Mar 20, 2010
221
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Can someone please point me to a source of a simple cylinder / keg shaped gas tank that could be rack / seat post mounted.

And do motorized bicycles use petcocks like motorcycles?

Apologies in advance for my ignorance.

Any input would be appreciated.

JC
 

crobo

New Member
Mar 24, 2010
94
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boston ma
I know silverbear made a "juice can" gas tank, not sure how but im sure if/when he sees this he will explain. as far as the petcock. as long as it doesnt leak and has the right flow it will work.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
If you do a search of the threads for Apple juice gas tank it will lead you to the beginning and the Godfather of juice tanks, Rockenstein.
I have coffee to make and will see what I have in picasa on this machine. I can post a few pictures of finished ones and if you want to know how to make one, between Rock's original posts and my own version I can walk you through it. Not much is required in tools: an awl or ice pick of some kind, an electric hand drill or dremel tool, a hacksaw or copper tubing cutter, a regular propane torch or butane mini torch and some silver solder. It takes a while to fabricate if you decide to cover it in leather, but is a real satisfying thing to say when asked where you got it, "yeah, I made that myself. Gotta make me coffee...
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Here are three different finished ones. The first is for a Worksman newsboy I have in Minnesota. It will fit between the upper bars, but I won't know how it looks til I get back home in a month. Second photo shows one made in coffee can size. Last one is a juice can size at 48 OZ. I'll see if I can find any pictures showing one in process of being made.
SB
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Here are three views of a juice can size. The small line is a sight gauge and works pretty well. Upper fitting is for a vent as the gas cap seals things up so there would be a vacuum otherwise. Filler tube is a 3/4 copper plumbing fitting and th cap is a brass hose fitting. Inside the cap is a rubber sealing ring. Under that I place a leather seal so that it does not leak at all. The hose fittings are not barbed so require a little more attention for a tight hose fitting. Zip ties work well and on the gas outlet a hose clamp is a good idea. There is no fuel shutoff at the tank since it is just a section of copper tube soldered in place, so I use an inline brass shutoff further down the gas line. Works fine. Last photo shows an earlier version of the tank with the filler tube on the end instead of centered and it is not covered in leather. If you were not going to use a leather covering the fuel outlet could be a regular shutoff/barbed fitting soldered in place. With leather you have to consider how to fit the leather over things. It is still possible to do if you make the stitch line intersect the fuel outlet. I found that I prefer having the shutoff close to the carburetor rather than reaching under the tank... matter of personal preference. I can't find any photos on this machine of a tank being made. If you're interested I'll see what I can find on discs or make one and take photos as I go.
If you want one, but don't want to make it PM me and I'll make one for you.
SB
 

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rockhopper

New Member
Mar 20, 2010
221
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Here are three views of a juice can size. The small line is a sight gauge and works pretty well. Upper fitting is for a vent as the gas cap seals things up so there would be a vacuum otherwise. Filler tube is a 3/4 copper plumbing fitting and th cap is a brass hose fitting. Inside the cap is a rubber sealing ring. Under that I place a leather seal so that it does not leak at all. The hose fittings are not barbed so require a little more attention for a tight hose fitting. Zip ties work well and on the gas outlet a hose clamp is a good idea. There is no fuel shutoff at the tank since it is just a section of copper tube soldered in place, so I use an inline brass shutoff further down the gas line. Works fine. Last photo shows an earlier version of the tank with the filler tube on the end instead of centered and it is not covered in leather. If you were not going to use a leather covering the fuel outlet could be a regular shutoff/barbed fitting soldered in place. With leather you have to consider how to fit the leather over things. It is still possible to do if you make the stitch line intersect the fuel outlet. I found that I prefer having the shutoff close to the carburetor rather than reaching under the tank... matter of personal preference. I can't find any photos on this machine of a tank being made. If you're interested I'll see what I can find on discs or make one and take photos as I go.
If you want one, but don't want to make it PM me and I'll make one for you.
SB
OK. That 4th gas can is just hysterical. I must have one. I like the nude look. Please PM the price.

Also, that rear rack is a thing of beauty. Any details? I want that, too.

JC
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Glad you like the tank and mounting cradle. I've posted some photos so you can better picture whether or not this will work for your build. The rear rack is something I really like and is very sturdy (not for sale) and I've modified several of these so far as they are perfect for a behind the seat gas tank. It is made from a 1960's schwinn front rack, nicely chromed and not much wanted by anybody as front racks ain't cool. A stock rear rack from the same bike is worth a bundle and much in demand, but not the front. Where it originally fit under the front tube I slip it over the seat tube with a large flat washer and small hose clamp under and the same above to fix it at the height I want on the seat tube. I then eyeball the angle of things regarding the axle mounts and figure out how the rack should be bent... take it off and do it to it... the last one whacked with a splitting maul (not the sharp edge) as it is very strong steel and doesn't want to bend. Anyway, that's the rack you're looking at. I like the lines, quality and simplicity of it. (& it's inexpensive!). That tank was a kind of 'proto-type' early version and has no sight gauge fittings. The cradle was made with that rack in mind and can fit either cross wise or length wise. You'd have to figure if it would work with your rack. The cradle is of two basic parts; the heavy aluminum plate under the rack which was made from part of my brother's boat dock materials and is about a 1/4" thick. Above are two sections of aluminum channel bolted through to the plate below. I was still in the stage of figuring out how to hold the tank to the rack and drilled holes through the bottom plate for zip ties to fit through. Those holes could be altered with a dremel cutoff wheel to make slots for either leather straps or stainless steel clamps. Where the aluminum channel contacts the tank I slit vinyl fuel line to slip over the top edge as a cushion... don't want metal against metal, right?
If you think it will work for you and you want it I'll sell the tank, the cradle and a matching funnel made from a mandarin oranges can and copper tube soldered to it. I'll be reasonable. PM me,
Silverbear
 

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rockhopper

New Member
Mar 20, 2010
221
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Glad you like the tank and mounting cradle. I've posted some photos so you can better picture whether or not this will work for your build. The rear rack is something I really like and is very sturdy (not for sale) and I've modified several of these so far as they are perfect for a behind the seat gas tank. It is made from a 1960's schwinn front rack, nicely chromed and not much wanted by anybody as front racks ain't cool. A stock rear rack from the same bike is worth a bundle and much in demand, but not the front. Where it originally fit under the front tube I slip it over the seat tube with a large flat washer and small hose clamp under and the same above to fix it at the height I want on the seat tube. I then eyeball the angle of things regarding the axle mounts and figure out how the rack should be bent... take it off and do it to it... the last one whacked with a splitting maul (not the sharp edge) as it is very strong steel and doesn't want to bend. Anyway, that's the rack you're looking at. I like the lines, quality and simplicity of it. (& it's inexpensive!). That tank was a kind of 'proto-type' early version and has no sight gauge fittings. The cradle was made with that rack in mind and can fit either cross wise or length wise. You'd have to figure if it would work with your rack. The cradle is of two basic parts; the heavy aluminum plate under the rack which was made from part of my brother's boat dock materials and is about a 1/4" thick. Above are two sections of aluminum channel bolted through to the plate below. I was still in the stage of figuring out how to hold the tank to the rack and drilled holes through the bottom plate for zip ties to fit through. Those holes could be altered with a dremel cutoff wheel to make slots for either leather straps or stainless steel clamps. Where the aluminum channel contacts the tank I slit vinyl fuel line to slip over the top edge as a cushion... don't want metal against metal, right?
If you think it will work for you and you want it I'll sell the tank, the cradle and a matching funnel made from a mandarin oranges can and copper tube soldered to it. I'll be reasonable. PM me,
Silverbear
Thanks SB.

Soon it will be mine.