Engine appears to flood/not starting?

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Motorized

New Member
Jan 17, 2012
3
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Los Angeles
Hi guys,

I have a RAW "80cc" 2 stroke engine on a beach cruiser that I bought used from somebody about two months ago. This was the first time that I ever rode anything like this, and I'm having a problem with what I presume is flooding.

Letting gas through is just by means of a lever, so I never know if I'm letting too much gas out or not enough. If you open the lever all the way, the bike will continually flood. If you don't, it may go a while but then you feel it lose power (essentially runs out of gas). I don't get how you're supposed to know how far to open the lever.. and what if you go fast for a long stretch, do you need to adjust the lever while you're driving?

Currently my bike doesn't work at all, leading me to my next question. Somebody who brought the bike to me left the lever open all the way, causing it to flood badly. I tried for 40 minutes pedaling around like a mad-man, and it just wouldn't start. As of right now, I have no idea what to do..

In terms of this bike's ability to run, I did get it to run a few times (much more when I first got it). It would run 15-20 minutes in a best case scenario (hardly ever happened), but would usually run at least five minutes before stalling (presumably from flooding or not getting enough gas).

Ultimately I would need this bike to commute to school. I'm a graduate student so coming late is not an option (they would decapitate you). Are these thing (motorized bikes) ever REALLY dependable? I mean this one has been a nightmare, but in general - are they dependable? Because if it's normal that they don't start every other (or even one out of ten) time(s) then it's just not dependable enough for me.

So my questions are:

-How do you know how far to open the gas lever/do you ever need to adjust it?

-How do you know for sure that a bike is even flooded in the first place and what's the best way to un-flood it after you've force-pedaled it 40 minutes with zero success?

-Is there any way to tell whether a bike is flooded or isn't getting enough gas when it doesn't work that doesn't involve taking apart the engine?

Thanks!

-Tom
 
Al.Fisherman

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
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Calera, Alabama
Motorized said:
Hi guys,

I have a RAW "80cc" 2 stroke engine on a beach cruiser that I bought used from somebody about two months ago. This was the first time that I ever rode anything like this, and I'm having a problem with what I presume is flooding.

Flooding is caused by too much gas entering the carburetor and the the float/needle and seat not stopping the flow.

Letting gas through is just by means of a lever, so I never know if I'm letting too much gas out or not enough. If you open the lever all the way, the bike will continually flood. If you don't, it may go a while but then you feel it lose power (essentially runs out of gas). I don't get how you're supposed to know how far to open the lever.. and what if you go fast for a long stretch, do you need to adjust the lever while you're driving?

Lever...there is no lever that controls the fuel flow. There is a lever at the gas tank that either lets fuel flow or cuts off the fuel flow.

Currently my bike doesn't work at all, leading me to my next question. Somebody who brought the bike to me left the lever open all the way, causing it to flood badly. I tried for 40 minutes pedaling around like a mad-man, and it just wouldn't start. As of right now, I have no idea what to do..

If you are talking about a lever on the carburetor, that is the choke and has nothing to do with the engine flooding.

In terms of this bike's ability to run, I did get it to run a few times (much more when I first got it). It would run 15-20 minutes in a best case scenario (hardly ever happened), but would usually run at least five minutes before stalling (presumably from flooding or not getting enough gas).

Answered above.

Ultimately I would need this bike to commute to school. I'm a graduate student so coming late is not an option (they would decapitate you). Are these thing (motorized bikes) ever REALLY dependable? I mean this one has been a nightmare, but in general - are they dependable? Because if it's normal that they don't start every other (or even one out of ten) time(s) then it's just not dependable enough for me.

As dependable...yes. I don't have to work on any bike I built, other then checking to make sure that the fasteners are secure. The bike I ride will start up within the length of my truck 90% of the time the first try. The other 10% may need a second or on few occasions a third try.

So my questions are:

-How do you know how far to open the gas lever/do you ever need to adjust it?

-How do you know for sure that a bike is even flooded in the first place and what's the best way to un-flood it after you've force-pedaled it 40 minutes with zero success?

-Is there any way to tell whether a bike is flooded or isn't getting enough gas when it doesn't work that doesn't involve taking apart the engine?

Thanks!

-Tom
Click to expand...
As far as flooding and to correct the problem a disassemble of the carburetor is needed.
 
E

Edd

New Member
Jan 25, 2012
19
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0
Cypress, TX
Maybe a stuck or incorrectly adjusted float? Check your spark plug first before trying anything by unscrewing it and looking at the electrode (sparking end). If it's oily and black, then you ARE indeed running too rich. These bikes are moderately dependable; I haven't had any major issues with mine (only had it for three months though). As for the 'lever', I'm assuming you mean the one screwed into the gas tank? That's a petcock. That one NEVER has to be adjusted during runs. Turn it all the way on and go; that's the way it's supposed to be anyways. Back to problem. Go to your bike. Locate the carb. On the bottom of the carb should be a metal bowl looking piece, with two screws holding it from the top. Prepare for some gas to spill out. Remove these screws and pull the bowl off. Between the bowl and the carb body there should be a blue gasket; don't lose that. Now that there's no gas in the bowl, there should be a white plastic doughnut-shaped ring sitting in the bowl (that's the Float). Take that out and examine the bowl for contaminants. Next go back to the carb body (the rest of the carb). You should see these brass tabs that went inside the bowl. Bend those down JUST A BIT (about 0.5mm or something like that, very small adjustment). Reassemble the carb (don't forget that gasket) and try to start. A video would be helpful. If you take apart the carb and find something interesting or get lost, take a picture so we can see what's going on. Hope to hear of your success soon!
 
E

Edd

New Member
Jan 25, 2012
19
0
0
Cypress, TX
Do the above steps only if you find out that the engine is running too rich (black electrode). Adjusting the brass tabs down if it ISN'T running rich could make the engine run too lean by setting the float too low.
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Edd's advice is right on but if he doesn't mind I'm going to add a step.
While the float bowl is off, turn the fuel petcock on (open) and see if fuel flows from the needle valve. If it does gently push up on the brass fingers he told you to bend down. The fuel should stop flowing proving the needle valve isn't clogged with trash and is able to control the flow of fuel into the carburetor.
Tom.
 
Hoze513

Hoze513

New Member
Nov 24, 2011
262
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Joliet, illinois
Take it back to the the person you got it from to show you how to start it. Or mAybe the person sold it because something is wrong with it. You did get the thing use.
 
L

leadfarmer

New Member
Sep 30, 2011
149
0
0
VA
Put a new magneto on it. Then a CDI. The parts are cheap, why not? I think the flooding you are talking about is secondary to the engine dying. As for your dependability question, well, yes and no.
After you have had it for a while and figured out the kinks, it can be "pretty reliable". It will never be a moped, motorcycle or car, where you don't even think about it breaking down. These bikes take constant fiddling, and constant upkeep.
 
N

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
I don't know if you ever got anywhere with your problem, but the proper suggestions are all right here. You know by now there is no lever to control how much fuel flows, there is just a petcock on the fuel line that is either on or off. If you park the bike and leave the petcock open fuel can sometimes seep into the cylinder and flood it out making it hard to start, sometimes the flooding gets so bad the motor will not turn over at all(because liquid gas will not compress). If this happens you should pull the spark plug and walk the bike around a bit and let the motor turn over and push out the excess fuel (make sure there is no spark or flame near the spark plug hole, otherwise you might start a fire while doing this).
As far as the cause of the condition, I would first look at your needle valve under the float, see if there is something clogged there preventing it from closing. If your needle valve does not close you will get bad flooding. If your needle valve is working properly then you may need to adjust the float by VERY SLIGHTLY bending the tab that pushes up on the needle valve. You would want to bend the tab so the needle closes while the float is sitting LOWER in the bowl. Sounds to me like a float adjustment might be what you need, but make sure it isn't just dirty first....
Post back what you find and we will try to help you further if need be...
Good luck.
 
R

RawRawRaw

New Member
Mar 9, 2013
16
0
0
Los Angeles
Similar or exact issue here. Possibly same bike even.

i replaced the carb with a new one, and it died after a mile or so of riding.

spark plug sparks but it's black.
 
E

EggsOnBass

New Member
Feb 18, 2013
4
0
0
Portland
My problem is the same with a brand new kit i cant get to start the first time. I also noticed that fuel wont flow at all unless i take off the cap to my fuel tank. Electric bikes dont do this crap. Ever.
 
Risingsunn

Risingsunn

Member
Nov 24, 2012
191
5
18
Maricopa Arizona
These little engines have more than their fair share of problems. They are not recommended for the feint of heart or non mechanically inclined because of the amount of troubleshooting you MAY have to do on them. Or it might just work perfectly for you...

Thank you for that one piece of info that is the key, "fuel wont flow at all unless i take off the cap to my fuel tank." It sounds very much like the bike has vapor lock because the cap isn't vented correctly. See HERE for quick easy fix involving a drill and small bit. Or HERE for an in depth search on vapor lock in these forums.
 
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EggsOnBass

New Member
Feb 18, 2013
4
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0
Portland
Then why the **** did i buy one? I didnt...
I bought TWOOOOOOOOOOOOooooo because im so smart that one wasnt enough of a crash course i guess. So as my previous post showed my folly, let this one show my foolery.
I am very familiar with vapor lock- air cooled VWs get it bad sometimes. I was wondering yesterday if that's what i was seein here, which is exactly why i mentioned the cap.
Thanks man!
 
Risingsunn

Risingsunn

Member
Nov 24, 2012
191
5
18
Maricopa Arizona
LOL, I did write that to begin with but was in a bad mood at the time. I tend to use the edit button a lot to tone down things.

I am still fairly new that this too and it can and has been very frustrating for me also. But it's fun if you like to tinker and tweek things. And this forum is a very good place to learn. Most here will help you with just about any issue you have, so welcome to the community, I hope you stick around and don't bail. As Gearnut has in his sig quoting another here:
"It's a chinagirl. It's a sometimes fun little engine that often will break your heart. It's disposable.

Does not come with a fortune cookie."
 
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