Chain Nightmare

GoldenMotor.com

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Two things come to mind if your chain goes slack then tight.

1. The rear sprocket isn't centered on the hub (poorly made adapter/sprocket) or has a wobble that lets chain ride higher on the teeth in places.

2. There are tight spots (binding links) that aren't allowing the chain to ride the sprocket correctly or a defective chain that has a twist to it. I've seen many kit chains that fall into this category.

A good quality industrial grade #41 chain is all I've ever used with no clearance problems anywhere except the front edge of the clutch actuator cover. But that's normal for all Chinese 2 stroke engines.

Tom
 

ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
82
28
Mpls Mn
cannonball2, I had 4 other covers laying around that I tried and they all rubbed before I ground the extra long clutch cover guide pins down. I ground the pins down and then picked a chrome one to hammer out a dished bow further to clear the flower nut set screw. I didn't know there was a wider cover type out there. One would think on the higher priced PK80 it would come with one if it needed it. Those pins looked like they were made from just cut off bolts with threads that catch the cover plate.
If the CNC sprocket is out of round I suspect the 3 holes were placed off center as its unlikely a the sprocket is out of round. It wouldn't take much to cause the up and down wobble, or the chain is not seating on the sprocket on one portion of it, but that looks like its not what's happening. The u and down motion is about 1/4inch. I am sure they will exchange it or refund it with no problems. Just another couple of places for builders to look if they are having chain or driveline noise and friction. I learn something new everyday.
 
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ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
82
28
Mpls Mn
yes its kind of a crap shoot. Either way this stuff is fun. One sure gets to know every nut and bolt in the process, and with that comes confidence in being able to fix it when she needs it. These things are as cool as it gets for a hobby and one needs to remind themselves that it "really is a hobby." A frustrating at times hobby...lol, but very satisfying when it all comes together. I'm not out of the woods on the new Citrus Indian, but will be soon I hope. Ill get a bunch of pictures up by this week end hopefully. Installing fenders *( so I can mellow on the chain probs) and the last chain guard. Making all my own custom brackets is a slow process for me. Just got the chrome oval motorcycle mirror on, so its winding up pretty fast.
 

Moto

Member
Jan 7, 2012
403
15
18
San Francisco, CA.
Zip Tie

saw some of your other posts about not being able to get brakes on your bike because of the double set of bosses. Brake bosses generally unscrew, and the intention of the frame was to unscrew the set of bosses you arent using. I think this will work. Sorry if you already figured this out. Heres a picture to demonstrate.

 

ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
82
28
Mpls Mn
Moto, I really appreciate the help for sure! Yep, I did know the hollow threaded studs screw out of the boss. I figured that out on my first build out of pure curiosity. The problem is the permanent welded on raised stud boss for the upper level brake location on the new GT2A frame is in the way of the lower one for 26 inch wheels. It has 4 raised welded on brake bosses. If someone build a brake arm with the pad on the opposite side of the arm it would work also, but I doubt they exist. One would have to grind off the welded section which I would be ok to do but matching the paint is a problem since I purchased it already painted. I'm building a vintage look show and go bike so a huge ground down wart would be not be an option until I can figure out the color. It looks like a 09 VTX Honda metallic yellow color, but cant be sure yet till I get some ordered from NAPA. Point is... its kind of odd for the factory to weld and install something and then paint something that can be used by nobody and I mean nobody with out grinding off the upper boss. I would have no problem if the people selling this frame stated that that's what you need to do in order to add 26 inch cantilever brakes, just is annoying for sure. I'm going to just go with the coaster brake and later this spring have a drum brake for the front laced into my front wheel as a Disc brake would look out of place in this vintage look bike that I'm building, trying anyhow///lol
 
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