Sprocket clamps
- Thread starter rocksalt27
- Start date
picture?
If you're talking about the half moon metal parts that go on the inside of the sprocket adapter, (rag joint) no, you can't use washers. Those parts are there to provide a uniform clamping pressure against the spokes.
Why would you want to eliminate them?
Tom
Why would you want to eliminate them?
Tom
Then you'll need to spend some time tightening and loosening the bolts until you get rid of the wobble. It does take some time and patients but it can be done.
Mount the wheel in the frame. Fabricate a pointer that comes very close to the sprocket then rotate the wheel watching for which direction the sprocket moves then adjust the bolts to eliminate the wobble. Once you get it right then go back and tighten the bolts to the same torque using a cross pattern (one side to the other) and you should end up with a sprocket that spins true.
Keep in mind that the sprocket also must be centered on the rear hub. It must spin concentric with no off-center rise and fall as viewed from the side when it spins.
There will be others who will tell you that an aftermarket sprocket adapter is essential. They are good additions but not absolutely necessary. Once installed correctly the kit rag joint will perform just fine. Key words here; installed correctly, and on a wheel with tight spokes and one which is trued. Good luck.
Tom
Invent something with MEMS that makes a kinda swash plate and continuously aligns the sprocket with warping to shape.
Just kidding!
I have a belt drive so it can handle a bit of that out of true to an extent anyway, but the idea of a make-shift pointer, I say yes do that. I used c-clamps and pieces of wood or metal and spun the wheel. Anything that can shim it back to true like common washers I tried on my home made sheave. The Whizzer clone sheave I now have I so far had no need to adjust.
Just kidding!
I have a belt drive so it can handle a bit of that out of true to an extent anyway, but the idea of a make-shift pointer, I say yes do that. I used c-clamps and pieces of wood or metal and spun the wheel. Anything that can shim it back to true like common washers I tried on my home made sheave. The Whizzer clone sheave I now have I so far had no need to adjust.
The wheel had been trued right beforehand. But thanks, I was able to solve that problem. However this new larger sprocket I put on is a 56T. So the chain is now pushed further towards the top and bottom. My frame being angled how it is, the chain is now making contact with the rear forks. If I can move the sprocket in closer to the wheel, it would give it more clearance. I need to shave the pineapple down. Anyone try that before? Ideas on how?
