J B Weld test

GoldenMotor.com

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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I had a chance to put j b weld to the test today and though I would post it. Tom and I have about the same thoughts about it, until recent improvements I was not a fan. We have a industrial floor sweeper that had the bearings go out in the idler pulley, since it is going to take two weeks to get here we tried j b. This pulley has two 6004 bearings, one had worn bearings the other had spun in the pulley. I chucked the pulley in the lathe an cut the lip down on the side where the bearing spun so we could get the epoxy around behind the outer race. We then installed a new bearing in the front of the pulley an coated the back bearing with j b four minute quick set and put it in the back of he pulley and put it on the pulley shaft for alignment. I held it in place till it set, today we started the sweeper and it is spinning true, only time will tell. By the way this machine runs 24 hours a day Monday -Friday so we will se.

http://youtu.be/903CnyEycY0
 
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xseler

Well-Known Member
Apr 14, 2013
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OKC, OK
My friend's dad didn't winterize his Cat bulldozer and the block cracked. Instead of pulling the engine and replacing the block, he cleaned it up and put a thick coat of JB Weld over the substantial crack.

He's still using the bulldozer with the original repair..........26 years later.

For some applications, the stuff works really well.
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
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memphis Tn
I used JB and some stainless screen to repair a $450 Mazda radiator tank (plastic) that had a 6''long crack in the tank.
First attempt was just JB. Lasted a week.
Second attempt I added the screen for strength and resistance to the flexing and pressure.
Still running today as far as I know.
Had the car a good 5 years after the fix.
But it doesn't work for anything exposed to fuel and/or oil, at least not for long.
But used properly, it's GREAT stuff.
Just as a side comment, after I fixed the radiator, I was so thrilled to not be spending almost $500 that I wrote to the company and told my story.
They sent me a $2bill, a sticker, and a tube of their new(then) water putty which DOES work for gas tank leaks.
NOT tank mounting stud repairs, but fine for a normal leak.
 
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Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
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N.M.
A boss man one time told me about Liquid Silicone Dioxide I beleive it was ''rock Quarry work''. He said his engine block had a bad one on a dozer. Somthing like 12 inches. He poored the stuff in and it stopped right away. Was telling me I could pick it up at the local pharmacy. That block never did leak after that.

Was trying to find the name when I found this one. http://www.amazon.com/Magic-1116-Liquid-Metallic-Seal-Up/dp/B002UIZPOG I bet it is good stuff too.

I used JB in the Automotive carb days. To seal the air adjust srews back up if necesary. Used it around fuel. Trying to remember all of it there was some internal carb work in a wam bam session from scraps. ''Rarley'' but saw folks get them out.

Had engine blocks from used lawn mowers around as a kid in a 4H class locally. Salvaged one Briggs block from a defective rod. Patched the hole in the block with it and never did leak. 90% of that success I owe to surface prep. I had some clean sandpaper etched, solvent prep wiped metal surface.

As A brick and mortor type deal to patch up old Motor Homes ''Salvaging''. I would often patch a plastic tank from kits here that don't look any differant. Heck smells about the same. I like the true glass work enamel rozen somtimes. Both do the job.

Was gonna say used with patch glass wool cut away sheets like fiberglass matt and you got a tank patch:)

A good job on a tank can be anywhere from 4 to 5 layers done up with cut up sheet and it gets very strong!
 
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Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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If the pulley will last two weeks till the new one arrives it will pass the test. The instructions said it cured totally in five hours so we let it sit over night.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Okay, let me explain my feelings and why I poo-poo on epoxy repairs to the newbie. Especially when they are told to 'pack the crankcase' or to make engine repairs using JB or any plastic material.

The product, 'IF USED AS DIRECTED' by the manufacturer might work in certain applications. The key words here is 'IF USED AS DIRECTED' and that means proper surface preparation. Trying to get any epoxy based material to adhere to oil impregnated metal will not work.

It doesn't take a lot of reading to realize the limited mechanical knowledge we often see here with new builders. These are the ones who overtighten fasteners, etc. All too often they might not understand the importance of cleaning the surface before applying the epoxy. Failure of the repair is almost certain in that case. They are told to use JB Weld to make a repair and then try to glob on the stuff without any prep. It won't work.

In Greg's case there is no doubt that he made sure there was no oil, grease, moisture or other contaminents on the metal before he applied the JB. And, it might hold until he gets his new parts. I hope it does. I've been where he's at.

I too have used epoxy based material for critical repairs in the past and had excellant results. Devcon products are an example. Of course they cost ten times what JB does. I was involved with a repair of a steam boiler supply flange where the flange cracked and it wasn't feasable to have it welded. The boiler was to be replaced soon and the cost of dissassembly was prohibitive. Devcon Liquid Titanium was used and it held for five years under steam pressure and temperature before the boiler was replaced. However, the repair was done according to the product makers exact instructions. The broken parts were thoroughly cleaned and properly clamped into position for the prescribed time before the machine was put back into operation.

Imagine a new builder with limited mechanical experience, knowledge or appitude trying to glue a cylinder stud or engine mount fastener back in with the threads coated with 2 cycle oil, grease, dirt and whatever. All too often the advice to use JB doesn't include the warning to follow the manufacturer's instructions precisely and that will usually result in a failed attempt at a repair.

That said, I did try to repair an engine with Devcon. I did exactly as Devcon said to do and the stud pulled out of the threads long before the torque value was reached. I used a heli-coil and that engine is still running strong today.

I've said this before and I'll repeat it here. JB has its uses but it isn't a silver bullet and it won't work for every repair. It will not work to repair stripped threads in an engine case, cylinder or other areas of high stress. It is a inexpensive alternative for some things but not everything.

Tom
 

Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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Well the pulley made it the first 24 hours, so that's $200 saved since a rental sweeper the same size cost $1000 a week.
 

Allen_Wrench

Resident Mad Scientist
Feb 6, 2010
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Indianapolis
I use JB (as directed, mind) only for things I must use now but will not be able to afford to fully replace or repair until later. But, being paranoid, I don't think I'd ever use it to repair some part which, in any roundabout way, my life depended on its reliability. Like, if a front engine mount had a stripped stud or hole which *could* be JB Welded back in - I don't think I could get past the haunting image of the engine breaking free as I ride, swiveling around, and clubbing my shin like Thor's almighty hammer. If a bolt or nut or tapped hole absolutely MUST have integrity, I'd rather bite the bullet and save the money to fix it right.
 
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Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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The jb is still holding, five days of around the clock use. Jb seems to work well in a controlled or compressed situation. I still wouldn't put it inside my engine.
 

Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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The new idler just came in, for whatever reason it took way to long. The repaired pulley is still working, chances are we will get the new pulley put on this week. So to sum up this thread the epoxy does have value in some confined spaces.
 

allen standley

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Oct 22, 2011
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Bangor, Maine
woodruff key, drive sprocket- instead of shearing the key the half moon edge actually scooped out the metal in the clutch shaft. I love JB Weld in its proper application like all of us do, but this obviously not a JB fix. I repaired the stripped cone holding my truck wiper arm with a product called Q-Bond purchased at my local NAPA store. Has held since Dec. no prob.

http://www.amazon.com/Bond-Repair-S...r+kit+small+quick+bonding+adhesive-+by+q+bond

Back to the bike motor, so on a whim I filled around the woodruff key in the shaft with Q bond, let it harden, filed off the excess and it held for about 3 miles. Can't claim success because piston pin clip came undone and destroyed the top end. Because the engine is down anyway, I ordered a new clutch shaft. Whether it permanent I will never know---Q bond interesting stuff.
 
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