Vintage project Schwinn Jaguar

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4you2eat

4you2eat

Member
Oct 27, 2012
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Spring Texas
Here's a find I just stumbled across. $80 maybe paid too much but heck I wanted it ! Needs elbow grease to remove some rust, new wheels, tires, seat , brake cable, a bunch of misc & fender supports. Ohh and prolly a motor & kit

I figger I will somehow make the fuel tank go inside the chrome tank somehow. Prolly by expanding the tank by playing w/ the brackets and fitting a tank inside and give just enough space for a filler neck at the top.

I'm thinking maybe $300 for bike parts and a china girl so $500 and I shall be on the road

You can see in the pics much of the rust can come off w/ some elbow grease, brass brush, toothpaste and fire starter





 
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4you2eat

4you2eat

Member
Oct 27, 2012
101
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Spring Texas
It is pitted up pretty good. I have most everything torn down except I cannot get the steering stem busted loose. That is rusted solid into the fork tube. I am keeping it wet w solvent to try and free it. The bolt stripped out of the expander nut, which I'm sure is frozen inside. I have hit the fork tube top and the stem w/ a torch to no avail. Banged on it w/a hammer many time, put a block between the forks and tried twisting the stem loose, but nothing. Time, persistence , solvent , heat and a hammer wil be tried. If that fails, I guess I will have to cut the stem off w/ a torch and get a replacement fork set along w/ the stem
 
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J

Jeckler

New Member
Jun 4, 2013
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Mesa, AZ
From the 2nd pic, if what you're using works on the rest of the bike, it should clean up nice.
If it were me, I would've used 000 (or 0000, can't remember) steel wool and Turtle Wax chrome polish. But that's only because that's what I've always used. Your idea sounds good too though.
I'd also just cut through the stem and let the expander drop. Or maybe drill through the bolt for the same result and maybe save the stem itself. Is the fork nut solid too? Maybe split that to get it off.
 
4you2eat

4you2eat

Member
Oct 27, 2012
101
12
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Spring Texas
It cleaned up decently. The chainguard is heavily pitted thru the chrome and there is some pitting thru the chrome on the tank as well. I like the "rustic" look so I can live w/ it.

The fork nut is loose after hitting it w/ a torch and using a huge crescent wrench to get it turning. The stem and the expander nut are rusted tight inside the fork tube./ I have hit the fork tube w/ a torch twice and even hit the stem some w/ a torch and so far no luck. I'm able to get some solvent / brake fluid / oil mixture into the problem area, so patience shall be my guide.
 
4you2eat

4you2eat

Member
Oct 27, 2012
101
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Spring Texas
Here is a pic of the trouble spot. I was able to get the bolt that goes to the expander nut off & I got the nut off and it is at the top of the pic. The collar nut that rides on the bearing at the bottom is loose. The stem / fork tube top is the issue it is rusted tight inside, below the threads. The stem is pitted / rusted pretty bad so I will prolly replace it anyways. I will try some more tomorrow prolly hitting the top of the stem w/an 8lb hammer and see if that busts it loose. It will bust something if I hit it hard enough.. better find safety goggles

 
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jpanichella

New Member
Sep 22, 2012
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Oceanside, CA
Jeckler said:
From the 2nd pic, if what you're using works on the rest of the bike, it should clean up nice.
If it were me, I would've used 000 (or 0000, can't remember) steel wool and Turtle Wax chrome polish. But that's only because that's what I've always used. Your idea sounds good too though.
I'd also just cut through the stem and let the expander drop. Or maybe drill through the bolt for the same result and maybe save the stem itself. Is the fork nut solid too? Maybe split that to get it off.
Click to expand...
I don't like using steel wool on chrome, the fibers can get embedded and rust later in my experience. I actually just use aluminum foil and water, it makes a nice aluminum oxide paste that takes rust off chrome really well.

Follow up with a coat of paste wax to keep it looking nice.
 
Y

younggun85

New Member
Jun 23, 2013
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minnesota
I've heard a good solution is to plug the hole in the bottom of the fork and fill the hole on the stem with coke. It should eat up some of the rust just as it would if you put a penny in coke for two days. See if you can work it out then? If not then you want to put the headtube in a vise (without crushing it) a vise designed to hold tubing is the only kind that will work, then use a wood block or cold chisel to focus the force as close to the stem body as possible and work it out with a hammer, dead blow hammer will probably work best. If I get a chance I may add some pictures for you. The Jaguar frame was designed to be used as a multispeed frame. It is the only balloon tire bike with cantilever frame/fork mounted brakes rather then hub brakes. Never had to resort to coke, but I have a '58 starlet with the same problem that is holding me up and the only I haven't tried is this recent suggestion. I really don't want to cut/ruin the stem on mine?
 
silverbear

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
I don't think you paid too much for that. Do you know what year it is? Serial numbers will tell.
If the fork gets wrecked in the removal then it is incentive to find a nice suspension fork for it. Are you trying to stay original or simply going for a cool motorbike? Either way, nice project!
SB
 
4you2eat

4you2eat

Member
Oct 27, 2012
101
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Spring Texas
FINALLY got the forks loose ! I put the forks into a vise while still attached to the frame and pounded a piece of scrap tube onto the stem, put a cheater inside and broke it loose. Below is a pic of it showing just the fork and the stem w/ the tube. SUCCESS !



SB, Im thinking fast here. I have just taken an order from a drinkin bud to build him a 1903 Harley replica and Im thinking of making two, using this frame for my replica and an 80's Huffy for his. I will still have the tank pieces, rack and other goodies for another retro ride. Im going back and forth thinking either clean this one up a bit, build it w/ a tank inside the chrome tank OR do a 1903 replica w/ the frame. Decisions, decisions ...

Im thinking if I use the original forks, I will use a trailer leaf spring setup. I just got the below bike, a Huffy. I will use the forks on the Jaguar bike either way I go. Im leaning towards a 1903 replica.



I just got the below seat for the bike anyhoo. If I go replica I will prolly go w/ a Brooks like seat



I also got the pedals for both builds.
 
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kevyleven007

kevyleven007

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
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texas
I have heard and seen aluminum foil and water works great on old chrome as well as 50/50 acetone and auto trans fluid and scrub with a wire brush. Looks like I can ad tooth paste and fire starter to the list because that looks clean!
 
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