Carb pooring out gas

I wrote to my brother about this, if the intake is aluminum I have a shot at making a bond. If the intake is pot metal (which it seems to be) the braze will puddle and not bond. I will be pursuing some testing in a day or so. I will be happy to share the results of what I find out. Good luck spot, it's good to be able to share information.

Results inconclusive. However, the kit intake is ridiculously soft and began to deform with the application of heat. I believe any one other than expert should stick with mechanical connection or fabricate an entire intake. Or purchase one. Just adding to the knowledge pool. If I knew then what I know now, I think one could apply heat and maybe induce a bend if they where very cautious.
*edit* I just did a destructive test on the flange, it's pot metal. I will be fabricating a replacement intake this week with the offset.

Sacrificed for the good of the community. Now we all know. Kids don't try this at home.



what you going to do with your wreaked intake I think I might be able to repair it.
norman

This has been happening the last couple of days to me. I hadn't ridden the bike for about two months, and when I filled it up yesterday, it fired right up, but was leaking out like crazy after a block- seemed to be right at the bottom of the float bowl, around the idle screw and that other one on the bottom. I told myself it was probably the float had stuck or something, cause it never did that before.

I rode a couple of miles and had coffee- not leaking then, although I did close the petcock down. Today, rode to the grocery, forgot to close valve down, and when I came out, gas had leaked quite a bit. Embarrasing, as I had parked at the bike rack- I'm going for poles to lock up at, out in the parking lot from now on, just so there's no trouble.

I don't think much fuel would leak at the intake, without the float bowl being overly full, unless some other problem with that. I always use gasket seal around the intake and make sure the carb is pushed all the way up against the intake.

I think it's the float sticking a bit, from non-use. I'm going to check it out more next time.. If I have any excuse, I may just have to order new NTS carb with extra shutoff at connector!

do you have an inline fuel filter? Everyone asks that question.
you might want to remove the carb take off the float bowl and clean out the float needle. look close at the needle you might see a wear pattern or a burr that is causing it to stick. you can use tooth paste to reseat the needle by using the tooth paste or( comet cleanerwith a little water) as a polish put a little on the tip of the needle stick the needle into the seat and a few light turns should reseat the needle clean it out good. You can also sort of check the level of the float with the carb upside down put the float on the "Y" shaped part and see if the float sits close to level if not you will need to adjust that. you can look at my carb tear down for more info on this forum as well.

you can check the operation of the reseating job of the float needle by attaching a short piece of fuel line on the fuel inlet hold the carb UPSIDE DOWN (you can either attach the float chamber or leave it off to test) float in place now blow into the fuel line you should NOT be able to blow through the line( use your lung pressure only), with the carb RIGHT SIDE UP you should be able to blow through it. IF you put the float bowl on you can do the test a couple of times to see how its working. If its working try it on the bike if not you will need to repolish the needle in the seat a bit more just don't get western with the polishing.

if fuel is pouring out of the carb, this is what I found! while most mentioned the common reason's I found that I had a hairline crack in the carb and it was venting there causing fuel to leak everywhere. come to find out ,it was the pick-up tube that goes into the bowl. it seperated from the body of the carb.

Progress update. My offset intake to date. Basic components are machined and ready for fit and assembly.

Completed.

Hi Norm. I just saw your edit on my post. Sorry there is no repairing it now. I sent it to Chinese pot metal purgatory with a very satisfying hammer blow.

you need to smack it at lest 3 times they have a way of playing possum.

Ha ha!!! I'm beginigng to learn why they call these "kits". Yes it's all there bolted together but it seems that it is only to make shipping compact! There are lots of mods, and fabrication involved to make things really right. First build and loving it!

Just for kicks, here is a hub drive for the sprocket I layed out and made.

float bowle drain screw size? i was driving home and the drain screw came out im at lowes right now typing this on my iphone, help what size is the drain screw?

aspireonescs said:

float bowle drain screw size? i was driving home and the drain screw came out im at lowes right now typing this on my iphone, help what size is the drain screw?

Click to expand...

Might try a Metric M3 or M4 bolt..Get a small washer as well!

I would just get some type of clay or something of the like that may be fuel resistant and just plug the hole if you cant find the right screw.

If you can't find the drain screw PM me I'll send you one.
I'll need your mailing address.
Nrman