i just got my GRUBEE SkyHawk GT5 66cc/80cc Angle Fire Slant Head kit got it all on the bike but i cant turn the back wheel its like there is a break on the engine or something
skyhawk problem
- Thread starter smileymale
- Start date
moves easyer but still stiff tho but it should be rideable tho is there something wrong with the plug?
So the engine turns over with full clutch engagement - normal. Taking plug out allows engine to turn over more easily - normal (taking plug out gets compression out of the way). So you can see or hear the piston moving with the plug removed, right?
What is not normal - by disengaging the clutch - the engine should not turn over (I assume it isn't - make sure) - and the bike should roll easily. Sounds like something is bound up in your driveline. I would contact Grubee, and search the thread on both sites for such conditions and cures. I know I have seen such threads, most people seemed to have a clutch issue that was cured by disassembling an proper reassembly.
What is not normal - by disengaging the clutch - the engine should not turn over (I assume it isn't - make sure) - and the bike should roll easily. Sounds like something is bound up in your driveline. I would contact Grubee, and search the thread on both sites for such conditions and cures. I know I have seen such threads, most people seemed to have a clutch issue that was cured by disassembling an proper reassembly.
I'd look closely at your clutch cable installation first before disassembling the clutch. (No offence, Paul) It is very common for new builders to underestimate the amount of pressure required to completely disengage the clutch. Make sure that when you connect the cable to the engine's clutch arm that it is snug, no slack with the handlebar lever un-squeezed 
is that a word? It usually takes at least an inch of travel to disengage the clutch.
Try pushing in on the clutch actuator lever with your hand. It takes a lot of force so wrap a rag around it. Push in until you feel it stop then try moving the bike forward while holding the lever in. It might require a helper. This way you'll know the clutch is in fact disengaging. Let us know what you find.
Tom
is that a word? It usually takes at least an inch of travel to disengage the clutch.Try pushing in on the clutch actuator lever with your hand. It takes a lot of force so wrap a rag around it. Push in until you feel it stop then try moving the bike forward while holding the lever in. It might require a helper. This way you'll know the clutch is in fact disengaging. Let us know what you find.
Tom
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If I was trying to find out as to what is going on I would segregate the system, meaning removing the chain. By doing this we break the system in three areas. Now you can work on one at a time. Rear wheel first..does the wheel turn easily and freely?...no...there is/or part of the problem...yes?? Now to the engine. Remove clutch cable from clutch arm. Remove spark plug as stated, remove the magnetto cover, using a socket rotate the magnet shaft (crankshaft) clockwise, do NOT use excessive force as you can strip the nut. If need be remove the clutch cover, remove small plillips screw, and back off on the star nut (Clutch adjusting nut) relieving all clutch pad contact and try to turn engine over again with socket. If need be remove the clutch pressure plate and check again. Make sure that the magnet is not binding with the magneto coil. If both rear wheel and engine turn freely you have a chain/drive, or a clutch cable/linkage problem. All this if done by a knowledgeable mechanic should take no longer then 1/2 hour from start to finish. Tack on additional time if you are unexperienced.
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