older briggs shaft size

I posted to PM answers, sort of. Just know there can be different crankshafts use one the same model engine in some cases. The engine recoil cover should have stamped into the metal model/type/lot?/serial in that order.

5digit space 4digit space 2digit space 8digit

Engine type maybe what specify the differences in the same models but varying types like crankshaft diameter etc.

Rust and paint gone should not matter as long as you locate the stamped into sheet metal on the cover and believe the engine cover to be the original cover, else not sure. I take a picture of it and digitally zoom in and enhance like a super Cray computer liquid cooled to do super sleuth deciphering, then it shows up. No really on a smartphone just use flash or none at all and zoom in to see what otherwise you cannot.

3/4 shaft uses a 1/4 inch key and so the slot cut is (1/2 * 1/4) 1/8 below the circumference of the shaft toward the center of the shaft.

Where did you that it is 3hp? Anyway when you get the info off the engine if you can for the codes, you can find some of those older tables that give information to its specs.

You should not hammer it on. I found with an older version of a Max Torque Clutch, I had to line up the inside of the bore that has two separate movable parts, one attached to shoes, the other the bell. When matched up there is a slight dimple that fits in the keyway, otherwise yes hammer on but that is not right to do.

The newer versions do not have anything like this and I only did drill my 5/8 inch engine crankshaft end with 10-24 thread and made a shim washer to use with split lockwasher that holds it on the end.

I was looking around for that old clutch as I might use it, but it was rusted up real bad and I freed it up, but decided I was using a belt clutch which I bought new, so it got lost somewhere. I'll see if the pictures on my thread I can find of that dimple I mean where it must line up. It had me going, but it some how maybe takes strain off some other part of the clutch, and newer version are made different and don't need the dimple.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=19077&page=9

Here is the page, and oops it is Discontinuity's thread I posted to not mine. See pictures on post #85 on pg 9 and the text above where I had it scrape the crankshaft, and I'll sand down the scratches over and over till found the dimple internal needs to line up with keyway, both parts inside bore, 1 attached to shoes and 2 attached to bell.

MEASURE TWICE said:

3/4 shaft uses a 1/4 inch key and so the slot cut is (1/2 * 1/4) 1/8 below the circumference of the shaft toward the center of the shaft.

Where did you that it is 3hp? Anyway when you get the info off the engine if you can for the codes, you can find some of those older tables that give information to its specs.

Click to expand...

I think you are wrong on this most 3/4" that i have run across use a 3/16" key.

As for the bolt 5/16" will work, you may have to sand or file the shaft some to get it to slide on................Curt