25cc Hyperbike Friction Drive

GoldenMotor.com

Mr.GhettoRig

Member
Mar 25, 2012
64
0
6
Port Charlotte
Alright, I was procrastinating this thread until the bike was 100% finished just to prove I do finish some of my projects but I cant wait any longer. Some of you probably remember me from the endeavor with the "overpowered electra". Well when I decided to take a break from that project I bought a $100 wallmart bmx bike to get me to and from work while I saved for a car or a real bike. I specifically told myself this bike WILL not end up motorized... but I was motorbike sick and couldn't help it.

Step one was taking a 2004 homelite that's been collecting dust under my work table for a year or two and stripping it down. She was looking a little dirty so I threw everything in a big pretzel jar filled with gasoline and let it all soak for a day. Everything cleaned up pretty well so I rebuilt the little engine with brand new gaskets and gave it a few coats of hi-temp black I had laying around.

Then after some youtube searching I designed a new motormount based on a couple different people's setups where the engine is on a swingarm rather than constantly forced to the tire. this allows the whole setup to be clamp-on instead of having bolts going through the frame, and the engines ability to swing off the tire will allow for a lever clutch system in the future. I also reused the socket spindle that I ran on the other two bikes but I'm currently working on an alternative that will grab when the tire is wet.

I've never been a fan of the motorized bike kit tanks because they just don't look right in my opinion. So I went ebay hunting and scored a 1980 Rupp enduro gas tank for 60 bucks which holds plenty of gas and suits the bike a lot better.

The lights are run by a dynamo/generator that hangs from the tensioner assembly and runs on the top of the tire instead of the sidewall because i had issues with it eating a cup into it really bad.

The bike has 400+ miles on it so far and I really don't have any complaints, runs smooth with only little vibration at low and high speeds, it's been topped out at 27mph so far but I only really cruise at 15-20. Aside from minor failures on the mount that have been reinforced everythings been working pretty good. I have plans to paint the bars and tank sometime in the future, and add one of those older style button seats and maybe some fenders. but in the meantime it's rideable and gets me around with about 120 mpg and only having to fill up the tank once a month for the price of gas, which is easy to deal with.

Here's some pics



This is with the old tensioner assembley which snapped off after about 100 miles.. its since been replaced with a new version in the next pic which has added supports and is still going strong. The new one still uses the eyebolt and I used a heavier spring I had laying around for less engine bouncing.





what do you guys think?
 
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buba

Member
Jul 2, 2010
914
10
16
los angeles
just great

i too have a few weed wackers around and your build is super inspiration
that tank -- you can cruise the world on one fill up!!!

ride safe
 

Ratt_Bones

New Member
Aug 2, 2013
153
0
0
Appleton, Wi.
SWEET! That looks way too nice and clean to be a ratrod.
I dislike that people get stuck in the thinking that rat rodding is about having just rusty junk. Sort of a pet peeve of mine. rat rod does not = rust. Sure there are a LOT of us who just love the look of the patina, and think it should stay there, but rats feed off of the garbage of others. They nest by re purposing materials. Rat rods actually come from motorcycling (ironic huh?) Rat bikes were choppers, and such that were built to imitate higher end and quality rides, but were held back by the skill level of the builder, and lack of availability of funds for parts. So a lot of parts were imitated, and mocked. This got carried over into the car scene.

It's just sort of a thing today where modern builders try to imitate older things, and get the mindset that it needs to be rusty and old to be a rat rod. Rat rodding is about being innovative, and creative, and making what you have work in ways that it otherwise shouldn't, or could not. It doesn't have to be rusty to be a rat.
 

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
6,046
3,948
113
minesota
AMEN! Ratt Bones.
I remember back in the 50's when you bought a Model A for $50 take the fender off and hood. And what ever else you could do to make it look like a hot rod. Maybe even fab a intake to put a down draft 2 barrel carb on ( i did this ). If you were lucky and had enough friends you got together and put a V8 flatty in it, did what you could with what you had. Its been the same throughout history,even today them cars would be considerd junk. But it sure was fun back then, but did what you could to make them look like the high doller ones in the magazines without coasting a arm and a leg.

I real love this bike its got the simplest mount of all the friction drive i have see, yet trully functional....................Curt
 
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maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
I agree totally! Patina is one thing, Rat bikes are something else entirely! Like the man said...
It's about rodding with what you find and make rather than buying billet this and CNC that.
It's about using parts in ways they were never intended to be used and making something completely individual! Personally, I dislike the patina trend. It's just a cop out on labor in my book.
Your opinions may vary. That's a GOOD thing! Room for every style in my world...even stuff I don't like.
No two rats are ever the same...
 

Mr.GhettoRig

Member
Mar 25, 2012
64
0
6
Port Charlotte
hey guys, sorry I haven't replied in awhile.. work is crazy lately.

yes I know to some it's not necessarily a true rat to some. I just felt like this was the thread it fit best in. I've been following Rat_Bones' description of "rat-rodding" ever since I got my Rupp.. from meat grinder engine scoops to making my own parts for just about anything.

The bike runs very well for what is is. 27mph top so far but thats when it's screaming and I'm generally not too hard on it. The tank holds 1-1/4 gallon which lasts me just about 120mph or about a month.

pretty soon im gonna be replacing the engine with another homie thats been ported and cut for high compression, I also gotta replace the swingarm with a steel one because they like to break in half after about 200 miles.

Ill try to keep you all updated.
 

Mr.GhettoRig

Member
Mar 25, 2012
64
0
6
Port Charlotte
hey guys, I'm curious what you friction-drive guys are running for spindles. I was running a 3/4" socket with slots cut in it which worked pretty good dry but if the tire gets wet as you can imagine the bike doesn't go anywhere fast- not to mention tire wear.

The other day at Ace hardware I bought a sanding wheel for a drill and tried that out. the wheel came with 50grit sandpaper and it worked like a charm at first. Easy starting, ran on wet road, and the bigger diameter changed the ratio enough to allow me to cruise at 30mph. But I quickly realized that setup was very hungry for some tire tread and ran it rubber to rubber.. which worked for a couple days besides the obvious slipping when wet. but that ended up eating the spindle into a triangle shape..

So today I went to homecheapo and bought a flat pvc plug to bolt to my flywheel, and connected a coupler with bumps on the edges to that... needless to say that was a failure as well.. wore the bumps right off the pvc just going down the road...

so thats where I'm at.. I'm thinking another option is to wear some of the grit off the sanding wheel and run it like that, if I buy a new one that is.. or run one of those friction drive kit spindles but I'm not sure if it will fit my 5/16" crank or not..

anyone have any ideas?
 

Scary G

New Member
Aug 15, 2012
36
0
0
B.C. Canada
I've built a few push scooters with weed eater/chainsaw motors. What I found worked really well was the trick pegs off a bmx with a knurled finish. Still not 100% in the rain and may not be the right ratio for your 20" tires. At 1 1/4" it worked great for the scooters 12" tires with a chainsaw motor. The weedeater engines could only handle about a 1" dia shaft.
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
hey guys, I'm curious what you friction-drive guys are running for spindles. I was running a 3/4" socket with slots cut in it which worked pretty good dry but if the tire gets wet as you can imagine the bike doesn't go anywhere fast- not to mention tire wear.

The other day at Ace hardware I bought a sanding wheel for a drill and tried that out. the wheel came with 50grit sandpaper and it worked like a charm at first. Easy starting, ran on wet road, and the bigger diameter changed the ratio enough to allow me to cruise at 30mph. But I quickly realized that setup was very hungry for some tire tread and ran it rubber to rubber.. which worked for a couple days besides the obvious slipping when wet. but that ended up eating the spindle into a triangle shape..

So today I went to homecheapo and bought a flat pvc plug to bolt to my flywheel, and connected a coupler with bumps on the edges to that... needless to say that was a failure as well.. wore the bumps right off the pvc just going down the road...

so thats where I'm at.. I'm thinking another option is to wear some of the grit off the sanding wheel and run it like that, if I buy a new one that is.. or run one of those friction drive kit spindles but I'm not sure if it will fit my 5/16" crank or not..

anyone have any ideas?
Try this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Childre...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2585889c2f

At $5.99/pair plus free shipping, if it works well, it's a bargain.
And it's .90" diameter, which should match the whacker's rpm.dance1
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
Dax and Staton each have rollers specially designed to grip without excessive wear to the tire.
Worth a look.