'The Beast' Scooterized

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lowracer

lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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I officially started my newest project today & got a bit done.
I still have some items on order that should arrive this week.
I ordered some cool thread-on 6 bolt disc brake conversion mounts. These thread onto the scooter wheel allowing me to run huge 8" rotors on the tiny 12.5" scooter wheels.
The rim cirumference is the same as the rotor and will probably make applying the brakes with a light touch mandatory.
I used some aluminum wheel truing adaptors made for 20mm thru axle wheels in a normal truing stand. This fits perfectly up against the front scooter wheel locknuts (110mm spacing since its actually a rear wheel).
The Beast scooter will have a new Bigfoot goped deck mounted to the bottom bracket and 8" rise cromoly BMX handlebars on a Casket BMX stem. I'm still hoping I have enough fork clearance to install a freewheel up front to run dual engines. It will definitely have a rear engine (either the Tanaka 47r or Mitsubishi 43cc). The drivetrains will be chain driven thru pocket bike 5:1 transmissions w/ both ends freewheeling. I could gear the front engine for maximum acceleration from a dead stop and have the rear engine geared for more top speed. The front engine can just idle once up to speed since its on a freewheel.
The suspension is 7" front & rear & should make for a smooth ride.
Enjoy the pics...more to come
-Lowracer-
 

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5-7HEAVEN

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Lowracer, you're one heck of a genius!

I love to follow your builds, looking for tips. Like how you think outta the box.

I'd scooterize, but I'd stick out in traffic. My bike's prolly illegal, but I kinda blend in with other bikes, especially when I pedal w/motor off.

Can't wait to see you run "twins" again.dance1
 
wheelbender6

wheelbender6

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I like the idea. I would just be hesitant to use a great bike like an RM7 as the chassis. Giver'er!
 
lowracer

lowracer

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5-7,
Thanks for the props.
I am not using my motorized bicycle for work purposes any longer, so my main build intention for this project is strickly for play. I've built three 'lesser framed' homebrewed scooters now & I need the Mack-Daddy.
There is a Goped called a Trailripper 46r that has an elastomer knuckle type suspension. I don't know how good they are or how long the elastomer lasts before degrading, but I know a good DH MTB will put that Goped Trailripper to shame in the suspension quality dept.
I may even change to fatter taller knobby tires to also take it offroad.
This could very well be the one vehicle that every kid in the neighborhood could approve of?
-DH frame
-BMX bars & stem
-Scooter wheels w/fully grip taped deck
-Gas engines that make it go
LOL
-Lowracer-
 

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16v4nrbrgr

16v4nrbrgr

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Hahaha I feel your bug for the scooters and the need for more speed, I was thinking about flopping around my drop gears to the 35 mph configuration and mounting a cag engine for more power to the auger trans on my BMX, but that would be overkill for the fixed frame with bad brakes!
 
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5-7HEAVEN

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16v4nrbrgr said:
Hahaha I feel your bug for the scooters and the need for more speed, I was thinking about flopping around my drop gears to the 35 mph configuration and mounting a cag engine for more power to the auger trans on my BMX, but that would be overkill for the fixed frame with bad brakes!
Click to expand...
If you install a suspension fork and disc brakes, then the situation goes from overkill to juuuuust right!xct2
 
16v4nrbrgr

16v4nrbrgr

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All those things will be on something I have been thinking about for a long time :D

Horses for courses! Lowracer knows wassup with full suspension and disk brakes, they're the stuff dreams are made of!
 
lowracer

lowracer

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Speaking of disc brakes...
The thread-on 6 bolt conversion pieces came in the mail today & are not std ISO 6 bolt spacing.
So its back to the 90mm band brakes.
I tried out a thread-on freewheel for the front wheel & it looks to have just enough clearance within the front fork.
I had to order a longer solid axle for the front wheel yesterday (stock was 175mm & just a bit too short). I got a 195mm coming.
Also still waiting on the handlebars.
-Lowracer-
 
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16v4nrbrgr

16v4nrbrgr

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Hey Lowracer, you can get thick rotors with that bolt pattern from scooter supply stores like TNC Scooters or Monster Scooter Parts or maybe off Ebay too.
 
lowracer

lowracer

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Here is some of what I was working on today.
I installed the freewheel, chainring & brakes to both wheels to see how it all fit together. I have a longer 195mm front 3/8" axle on order to finish up the front wheel. I'll have to take the front apart again once the new axle arrives.
The 90mm band brakes fit great & will do a good job stopping 'The Scooter Beast'. I have 2 other scooters with just 1 rear band brake & they stop ok... having the front too will be better.
Does anyone know which brake lever works best for band brakes (v or canti)?
I removed the front derailler & disc brake calipers.
I'll probably use both disc caliper mounting tabs as a connection point for both transmission mounts. The jurys' still out on whether I'll gear the front (10/27T) for max acceleration 0 to 21mph & gear the back 12/18T for max speed 37-42 mph or better to gear them the same? & expect both engines to assist each other at low speeds & still pull hard to max speed?
We'll do some experimenting further along, but for now I'm going with the former.
-Lowracer-
 

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16v4nrbrgr

16v4nrbrgr

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I'd gear both trannies tall with a slippy clutch since now you'll have twice the torque. If I were to do the two different speed ranges I'd want two throttles so the first one isn't tached out when the second motor is doing its high speed thing. Sounds too complicated to ride, with torque vectoring from the 2wd when using 2 throttles.
 
lowracer

lowracer

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16v,
It might end up like that.
I use brake levers as throttles. Having 2 engines I'd need a throttle lever on the left hand side as well & that could get a bit goofy since I'm now used to left hand braking.
Each engine has its own throttle & when the throttle is released the engine not pulling will just idle (both on freewheels). I got plenty of gear ratios to choose from having a collection of different freewheels 18T-44T & engine sprockets sized 10T-12T.
This project will be built as a 2 engine drivetrain, but who knows what it will morph into?
I got room out back in front of the rear wheel for a monster sized 4-stroke Harbor Freight engine.
Anybody know if a v-brake lever or a canti brake lever works better for band brakes?
-lowracer-
 
5

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
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lowracer said:
Here is some of what I was working on today.
I installed the freewheel, chainring & brakes to both wheels to see how it all fit together. I have a longer 195mm front 3/8" axle on order to finish up the front wheel. I'll have to take the front apart again once the new axle arrives.
The 90mm band brakes fit great & will do a good job stopping 'The Scooter Beast'. I have 2 other scooters with just 1 rear band brake & they stop ok... having the front too will be better.
Does anyone know which brake lever works best for band brakes (v or canti)?
I removed the front derailler & disc brake calipers.
I'll probably use both disc caliper mounting tabs as a connection point for both transmission mounts. The jurys' still out on whether I'll gear the front (10/27T) for max acceleration 0 to 21mph & gear the back 12/18T for max speed 37-42 mph or better to gear them the same? & expect both engines to assist each other at low speeds & still pull hard to max speed?
We'll do some experimenting further along, but for now I'm going with the former.
-Lowracer-
Click to expand...
On my twin-engined bike, I once used front friction drive w/1.375" roller. In the rear was a Stxxxn chain drive w/18.75:1. Each Mits TLE43 engine had separate throttles. At low and midrange, Lowracer knows how both engines pull and sound like swarming bees.dance1

After I pulled away from a stop, sometimes I'd use just the lower-geared front engine. When I hit midrange, I'd release the front engine's throttle and stab the rear engine's throttle. Being that the engines were identical, it sounded EXACTLY like a 2-speed shift change!

My suggestion is to gear one engine as low as possible with your 10t/44t sprockets. Chained to your 5:1 tranny, that gives you 22:1. Then gear the other drivetrain high for top speed. That's one option. Then you'll hear that "shift change".

Orrrr, gear both engines on high. Two under-geared engine will make for one STRONG pull throughout the entire range, including top speed!xct2

Since each engine is controlled separately, you can release the throttle on either engine at high speed, or whenever.

How exciting to be experimenting in uncharted territory!dance1
 
lowracer

lowracer

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5-7,
You know me, I'll probably try it both ways to see which way works out best.
I have 2 new Mitsubishi 43cc engines & 2 used Tanakas (32cc & 47r).
Not sure which engines to use for this beasty yet but I'm leaning toward the matching Mitsubishis (they are so quiet with stock mufflers in place)...
-Lowracer-
 
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