GT5A is supposed to be the "superhawk" motor. it has a larger intake port and different head than the GT5. the exhaust is slightly different, and there might be a few other minor differences, but i forget...
the "A" doesn't stand for "angle." i dunno what it actually stands for, actually. just to differentiate the two, i guess.
the "A" doesn't stand for "angle." i dunno what it actually stands for, actually. just to differentiate the two, i guess.
I'm curious and wondering can I replace the piston / jug / cylinder head from a gt5a with a gt5 piston rebuild kit I mean it should be compatible rite all I'd have to do is change the air intake neck rite ??
Any help would be great
Thanks
Any help would be great
Thanks
some of the gt5a's had the smaller 6mm headstuds. as far as i know, all the gt5's have the larger ones.
i'm pretty sure the pistons are the same, but i'd ask the seller which piston comes with it. the size is the same but the piston pin holes may be higher or lower. they're not interchangeable.
and yeah, you need a new intake.
i'm pretty sure the pistons are the same, but i'd ask the seller which piston comes with it. the size is the same but the piston pin holes may be higher or lower. they're not interchangeable.
and yeah, you need a new intake.
GT5 vs GT5-a
Intake 32mm vs 40mm (exhaust matched)
Piston: Same
Head: Same
Bolts: Same
Ports: havent checked but likely the same
Literally the only difference between the GT5 and GT5a is the 5a allows a larger intake. The wider bolt spacing will allow you to port larger and get less restriction. With our motors, you'll want a full 1" port (with matching manifold, stock is 1/2" I.D.). The intake and exhaust are pre-matched from factory and honestly the only difference between the two is the intake port. I've been exchanging parts between the two motors for two years now. HOWEVER, the Type D motors (Dax, speeddemon, etc. basically any non-grubee motor) have ports that are 1mm lower (restricting), a connecting rod 5mm shorter than the grubee, the piston wrist pin sits 5mm lower than the grubee (21mm compression height for the grubee vs. 26mm for the Type D). The heads are identical as well. There are no Type D motors with 40mm intake spacing to my knowledge but I havent looked into it, the higher ports in the grubee motors makes for more power anyway. A GT-5a jug on a dax balanced low end, RT carb, voodoo pipe, and a Puch hi head could easily make for a cheap powerful little bike for about $190 (not including shipping)
Intake 32mm vs 40mm (exhaust matched)
Piston: Same
Head: Same
Bolts: Same
Ports: havent checked but likely the same
Literally the only difference between the GT5 and GT5a is the 5a allows a larger intake. The wider bolt spacing will allow you to port larger and get less restriction. With our motors, you'll want a full 1" port (with matching manifold, stock is 1/2" I.D.). The intake and exhaust are pre-matched from factory and honestly the only difference between the two is the intake port. I've been exchanging parts between the two motors for two years now. HOWEVER, the Type D motors (Dax, speeddemon, etc. basically any non-grubee motor) have ports that are 1mm lower (restricting), a connecting rod 5mm shorter than the grubee, the piston wrist pin sits 5mm lower than the grubee (21mm compression height for the grubee vs. 26mm for the Type D). The heads are identical as well. There are no Type D motors with 40mm intake spacing to my knowledge but I havent looked into it, the higher ports in the grubee motors makes for more power anyway. A GT-5a jug on a dax balanced low end, RT carb, voodoo pipe, and a Puch hi head could easily make for a cheap powerful little bike for about $190 (not including shipping)
Okay I got the parts THEY DO MATCH other than the head studs being larger ALSO THE REASON MY ENGINE CRAPPED OUT was the wrist pin bearing EXPLODED and all the bearings rods proceeded to get all through my engine it cracked the ports and destroyed the cylinder head as well as the cylinder !!!!
NOW !!!!!! LISTEN UP GUYS
THESE WRIST PIN BEARINGS ON THE CRANK SHAFT !!!
Seriously get rid of them !!!
" JUICE MOTOR PARTS " sells a BRONZE HIGH PREFORMANCE BUSHING !!!
With no moving parts MUCH MUCH BETTER only $8.99 plus $15 first class USPS shipping
DAMADGE TO MY - jug / cylinder head / piston !!
All wouldn't have happend if I had just replaced that wrist pin bearing with the bronze bushing
SO YOU GUYS DEFFENATLY CHECK IT OUT !!
(Juicemotorparts.com)
Also can we attach pics to THEESE reply if so how ??
NOW !!!!!! LISTEN UP GUYS
THESE WRIST PIN BEARINGS ON THE CRANK SHAFT !!!
Seriously get rid of them !!!
" JUICE MOTOR PARTS " sells a BRONZE HIGH PREFORMANCE BUSHING !!!
With no moving parts MUCH MUCH BETTER only $8.99 plus $15 first class USPS shipping
DAMADGE TO MY - jug / cylinder head / piston !!
All wouldn't have happend if I had just replaced that wrist pin bearing with the bronze bushing
SO YOU GUYS DEFFENATLY CHECK IT OUT !!
(Juicemotorparts.com)
Also can we attach pics to THEESE reply if so how ??
Hey guys also my motor has 6ml studs would it be okay you think to reem them out and re tap them to 8ml or would that weaken my motors over all integrity ???
If there's room you can re-tap them for bigger studs. i've used the smaller studs with the bigger jugs before. once the jug seats into the case it's lined up. and if you haven't noticed, the old jug ain't exactly a tight fit to the 6mm studs anyways.
MAKE SURE you got all the needle bearings and other chunks out of your bottom end. a small piece of crap left behind will blow your motor up all over again.
You can also get real needle bearings from a bearing house instead of the brass bushing...
MAKE SURE you got all the needle bearings and other chunks out of your bottom end. a small piece of crap left behind will blow your motor up all over again.
You can also get real needle bearings from a bearing house instead of the brass bushing...
Thanks and I noticed in that bairdco link the (
puch moped athena 70cc 45mm reed cylinder kit ) would that work on one of our bike motors ??
ALSO YOU KNOW THE SMALLER CLUCH GEAR WITH THE FLAT HEAD SCREW HOLDING IT IN ??
How on earth do I get that off ??? I've tryed everything !!!!IT WON'T BUDGE !!!
I even slightly heated it with a torch I sprayed it with stuff designed to unlock stuck fasteners EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF !!!
ANY IDEAS OR HELP WOULD BE GREATLY & MUCH APPRECIATED
puch moped athena 70cc 45mm reed cylinder kit ) would that work on one of our bike motors ??
ALSO YOU KNOW THE SMALLER CLUCH GEAR WITH THE FLAT HEAD SCREW HOLDING IT IN ??
How on earth do I get that off ??? I've tryed everything !!!!IT WON'T BUDGE !!!
I even slightly heated it with a torch I sprayed it with stuff designed to unlock stuck fasteners EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF !!!
ANY IDEAS OR HELP WOULD BE GREATLY & MUCH APPRECIATED
An impact screwdriver is what i use.
You can try blocking the gear with a wooden dowel or something, then hammer on the back of a big screwdriver while turning it for a poorman's impact.
You can try blocking the gear with a wooden dowel or something, then hammer on the back of a big screwdriver while turning it for a poorman's impact.
Oh also any idea how you GET RID OF NEWBY STATUS lol I mean aside from those couple questions I had I'm def not a NEWBY lol
You don't have to heat it up.
Titles change based on post count. the more posts you have the more your status changes.
Titles change based on post count. the more posts you have the more your status changes.
Okay but wouldn't heating it up make it easyer to unscrew ??? You know kinda like a seized nut or bolt on a truck I mean I've always tag teamed fasteners like that heat them while trying to undo them OR HOW BOUT THIS ????
( as I'm trying to completely disasemble motor ) WHAT IF I REMOVE EVERYTHING BUT THAT ONE SMALL CLUCH GEAR / SPROCKET ????? Could I then still pull the two halfs ov the motor apart while just leaving only the one small gear attached ?? I JUST NEED TO CHECK FOR FOD IN BOTTOM OF MOTOR ! I'm sure there's none left in the but just to be safe rite ! Cause I just purchased a new head cover / jug / piston and I don't wanna destroy those as well !
But ya AND I'VE ATTACHED PICS OF THE DAMADGE
I'm pretty sure this would work but I'm not gonna try unless you guys agree itll come apart with the one piece still attached !
Thanks again for all the help too !
GREATLY appreaciated
Bill
( as I'm trying to completely disasemble motor ) WHAT IF I REMOVE EVERYTHING BUT THAT ONE SMALL CLUCH GEAR / SPROCKET ????? Could I then still pull the two halfs ov the motor apart while just leaving only the one small gear attached ?? I JUST NEED TO CHECK FOR FOD IN BOTTOM OF MOTOR ! I'm sure there's none left in the but just to be safe rite ! Cause I just purchased a new head cover / jug / piston and I don't wanna destroy those as well !
But ya AND I'VE ATTACHED PICS OF THE DAMADGE
I'm pretty sure this would work but I'm not gonna try unless you guys agree itll come apart with the one piece still attached !
Thanks again for all the help too !
GREATLY appreaciated
Bill
Attachments
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Here's the other DAMADGE pic u can see the indents from the pins in the needle bearing lol
Attachments
Not sure if you could still spit the cases. i can't remember what's holding it together on the other side.
I'd just go buy an impact driver like everyone else suggested and be done with it.
Another poor man's route is to clamp a big screwdriver with some vice grips so you have leverage.
I've never had a problem getting that screw loose. in fact, i've had a few come out by themselves...
I'd just go buy an impact driver like everyone else suggested and be done with it.
Another poor man's route is to clamp a big screwdriver with some vice grips so you have leverage.
I've never had a problem getting that screw loose. in fact, i've had a few come out by themselves...
Well ya normaly I'd agree but the damn things in there so so tight I WILL FOR SURE. Just destroy the slot in the screw and the ill have to drill it out and or cut it off and ruin the sprocket !!
Anyway
Alrity guys all your help is greatly appreaciated
And once I do figure it out ill be sure to post the outcome
Again
Thank everyone
Bill
Anyway
Alrity guys all your help is greatly appreaciated
And once I do figure it out ill be sure to post the outcome
Again
Thank everyone
Bill
