Won't start? Check for compression loss.

When I got the kit, I was appalled by the low quality trash that passed for hardware and connectors. I was even more appalled by the the lack of any solid specs and info on these things.But I got it together and running and it ran for a little while and quit. I went through all the standard drills - fuel flow, carb, spark, etc.,etc.,etc. Everything checked out but I still couldn't get it to start.
To make a long story interminable, it turned out that the entire upper end was losing compression. What I figured happened was those cheap cylinder studs streched.
First, throw away those idiotic acorn nuts as soon as possible. Second, use a good gasket sealer on the head gasket ( I had a tube of Hondabond-worked OK). Third, seal up the intake manifold gasket.
Then get a good combination wrench and torque down the head nuts AND spark plug--probably somewhere around 20-25 ft.lbs should do it,but that's just my best guess. One online manual stated that the head nuts should be torqued down to 4-6 ft.lbs--I'm not making that up!
I did all that and the bike fired up right away.

Thanks for the numbers, I'll see how they work out. As for sealant on the head gasket; should any sealant be used at all? The head gasket is squishy soft aluminium and probably should be ok without any.
As a nondirect comparison; Harley Davidson K Model motors (flatheads) have an aluminum head bolted to a cast iron cylinder without a gasket. The factory called for aluminium paint (unspecified composition) coating the mating surfaces. It works well, but then again, entirely different compressions, RPM ranges, and it's a 4 stroke. I might try that.

Just another thought; should the bolts be torqued down when the motor is hot or cold?