i bought a 66cc engine kit on ebay and its vary hard to get started. it take at least 15 mins of pedling to get it started but once it starts it runs awesome and as long as its warm it starts easily. im running a 16:1 fuel ration for the break in in period. if anyone could help please let me know.
hard to start
- Thread starter transamguy
- Start date
As you look around here you will see that 16 to 1 will run bad, I had to go to 24 to 1 before mine sounded like a 2 cycle. The more you can run it the better it will get. I can start mine by lifting the rear tire and spining it by hand, but thats after break-in and carb tuned.
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I always start my bike with a squirt or either starting fluid or throttle body cleaner. Both comes with a 6" small nozzle. I drill a hole for the nozzle on my right side of the breather cover. Been doing this about two years. IT will start right up. I'm 64, 210#, heart problems, and mine will start in the length of my Yukon truck.
play with the choke a little, mine like 1/4 choke and about half throttle to fire up. When I dropped down to a 64 on the jet and the engine got broke in now it is maybe an 1/8th choke and throttle cracked open.
I might be doing it wrong but i pedal up to about 5 or 6 mph and then let go the clutch. fire right up.
PS if it sits a few days I have to use the tickler to get the fuel moving agian, I just push it down a couple times until i see the fuel level changing.
Good luck
I might be doing it wrong but i pedal up to about 5 or 6 mph and then let go the clutch. fire right up.
PS if it sits a few days I have to use the tickler to get the fuel moving agian, I just push it down a couple times until i see the fuel level changing.
Good luck
My new, and first, 69 cc was verrrry hard to start...down hill, and would start sputtering while I pedalled, and would finally go after 10-30 seconds.
Then, I would run around the neighbourhood, and stall at a stop sign, and then it would be hard as heck to get started again. I swear my heart rate was higher than if I had no engine!
Here's what seemed to fix it for me...I finally followed just about every guru's advice on here and swapped the plug for a NGK B6H-S that I robbed from my Suzuki outboard, lol
I cannot explain why it would make SO much difference, others have said the stock plugs wotrls fine...but when I left the shop, it fired up in about 15 feet and suddenly I had wayyy more power, it was astounding. In addition, I can know idle with the clutch in...before, no matter what I would do with the idle adjust screw, it would stall...and then of course, more pedalling!
Perhaps not everyone will feel the same improvement, but honestly, after stalling and rough running for the past two days with the old plug (and loose head bolts...crack CRACK! like a backfire, I could believe how much they loosened off after ONE 3 mile run, even though I torqued them to 12 ft/lbs)...after swapping the plug, she started in a great cloud of smoke (Unburnt oily gas from previous failed starts)..and runs so much better...I'm back in the mood!
One thing I did NOT try, was simply cleaning the old plug and replacing it...in my experience with 2-stroke outboards, 16:1 seems a very rich and oily mixture. Even 20:1.
It's possible that the plug fouls very easily, and as an engine won't start, the problem compounds as unburnt gas/oil hits the plug end.
However, even when I first started her the other night, it never ran as good as she does tonight with the NGK!
Yay MB'ling gurus!
Yay science!
Then, I would run around the neighbourhood, and stall at a stop sign, and then it would be hard as heck to get started again. I swear my heart rate was higher than if I had no engine!
Here's what seemed to fix it for me...I finally followed just about every guru's advice on here and swapped the plug for a NGK B6H-S that I robbed from my Suzuki outboard, lol
I cannot explain why it would make SO much difference, others have said the stock plugs wotrls fine...but when I left the shop, it fired up in about 15 feet and suddenly I had wayyy more power, it was astounding. In addition, I can know idle with the clutch in...before, no matter what I would do with the idle adjust screw, it would stall...and then of course, more pedalling!
Perhaps not everyone will feel the same improvement, but honestly, after stalling and rough running for the past two days with the old plug (and loose head bolts...crack CRACK! like a backfire, I could believe how much they loosened off after ONE 3 mile run, even though I torqued them to 12 ft/lbs)...after swapping the plug, she started in a great cloud of smoke (Unburnt oily gas from previous failed starts)..and runs so much better...I'm back in the mood!
One thing I did NOT try, was simply cleaning the old plug and replacing it...in my experience with 2-stroke outboards, 16:1 seems a very rich and oily mixture. Even 20:1.
It's possible that the plug fouls very easily, and as an engine won't start, the problem compounds as unburnt gas/oil hits the plug end.
However, even when I first started her the other night, it never ran as good as she does tonight with the NGK!
Yay MB'ling gurus!
Yay science!
I set the gap to 020...runs great...(although it was running great already) most plugs come about 025 I think? - but I will try re-gapping the original plug, and putting it back in just to see.
I'm bumping this thread because it was such a good read. Others new to the HT might find it useful. And also I was curious about why I have to ride around the block to start up.
Norm is on to something. These motors like plugs gapped pretty tight.
