Help! I am sick of this high idle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV8juw4zi-8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV8juw4zi-8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Help me with my high idle. I have video footage.....
- Thread starter RobRoy
- Start date
3 things quickly come to mind:
Idle speed screw turned in too far?
Throttle cable adjusted too tight?
Air leak?
Idle speed screw turned in too far?
Throttle cable adjusted too tight?
Air leak?
I had to adjust the idle screw to get it to idle down. Under normal condition, where I turned the screw to, it would idle too low, and die.
Air leak, I am pretty sure that I do not have one. I have sealed off the areas that would cause the problem.
The throttle cable is turned all the way in.
I have the same issue with the carb that's on there, it's a NT, I believe, and with the RT.
I am getting frustrated. This is the old ladies bike. I just got the smaller jets from Dax, for the carb on my bike, which is the only issue im having with mine, but I still want to fix hers so she will ride with me again!
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given your reply, my only guess- and the most likely culprit- IS an air leak...
intake, exhaust, base of jug, and head are ALL places which should be checked! as well as a properly seated spark plug....
using soapy water helps find a minute leak you otherwise could not spot, or feel.
....hope this helps.
intake, exhaust, base of jug, and head are ALL places which should be checked! as well as a properly seated spark plug....
using soapy water helps find a minute leak you otherwise could not spot, or feel.
....hope this helps.
it's possible that you have the carb slide installed backwards (or 180 degrees off). the slide has 2 slots in it, a short slot and a long slot.
the long slot goes to the right side of tyhe engine and lines up with a pin that's cast into the carb body. the short slot lines up with the idle screw on the lefdt side.
if you have it in backwards, the long slot will line up with the idle screw and make the idle screw do absolutly nothing.
the short slot will line up with the pin in the carb and the slide will not be able to go all the way down to the bottom of the carb.
this is such a common thing because people just think that the slide can go into the carb anyway.
it can go into the carb 2 different ways, but only one way is correct. long slot to the right, short slot to the left while looking at the engine from above.
soapy water isn't the best way to find an air leak. starting fluid is the best way because it will make the engine rev up when you hit an air leak with it.
the long slot goes to the right side of tyhe engine and lines up with a pin that's cast into the carb body. the short slot lines up with the idle screw on the lefdt side.
if you have it in backwards, the long slot will line up with the idle screw and make the idle screw do absolutly nothing.
the short slot will line up with the pin in the carb and the slide will not be able to go all the way down to the bottom of the carb.
this is such a common thing because people just think that the slide can go into the carb anyway.
it can go into the carb 2 different ways, but only one way is correct. long slot to the right, short slot to the left while looking at the engine from above.
soapy water isn't the best way to find an air leak. starting fluid is the best way because it will make the engine rev up when you hit an air leak with it.
I've got a good seal here......
I've got this the right way also. I know if you try to put it in the other way, the throttle cable doesn't want to screw down...
Your pictures show that you certainly have done your homework on preventing leaks. Well done!
Have you checked the crank shaft seals for leaks? It could also be leaking from the gasket between the crankcase halves, although this would be the last thing to check as it is the least common place for leaks.
Have you checked the crank shaft seals for leaks? It could also be leaking from the gasket between the crankcase halves, although this would be the last thing to check as it is the least common place for leaks.
Excellent video!
2 things come to mind... the cable is binding. disconnect it from both ends, lube it well, makes sure it's not binding in the sheath, and plenty of slack when throttle shut down.
OR, the slide could be binding in the carb body. Does the spring have sufficient pressure? Tweak it!
Good luck
rc
(IMO, these things are NOT really meant to sit there and idle, because the only neutral selection is by dis-engaging the clutch. Any drag and it would be difficult to adjust the idle precisely, and it would require another adjustment if the amount of drag changed, for whatever reason.
And there's not really suitable bearing surfaces for any sort of sustained, long term clutch dis-engagement.)
.
2 things come to mind... the cable is binding. disconnect it from both ends, lube it well, makes sure it's not binding in the sheath, and plenty of slack when throttle shut down.
OR, the slide could be binding in the carb body. Does the spring have sufficient pressure? Tweak it!
Good luck
rc
(IMO, these things are NOT really meant to sit there and idle, because the only neutral selection is by dis-engaging the clutch. Any drag and it would be difficult to adjust the idle precisely, and it would require another adjustment if the amount of drag changed, for whatever reason.
And there's not really suitable bearing surfaces for any sort of sustained, long term clutch dis-engagement.)
.
Here's my cruiser. I put in the 65 jet on my RT Carb.. This is how my bike I am having issues with should be running. I have the same carb for both bikes, but right now I have the NT carb on the bike that's pissing me off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQCyOiuZnAw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQCyOiuZnAw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
well, silicone is NOT the best idea to seal up a carb. silicone will dissolve when in contact with gasoline.
using silicine on the intake to cylinder gasket won't last very long.
the best way is to make your own gasket out of some rubber-like gasket paterial.
sealing the carb to the intake, you need an o-ring to go inside the carb throat to sit where the intake seats against the carb throat.
it sure sounds like you have a massive air leak, or, your cable is binding causing the slide not to go all the way down.
using silicine on the intake to cylinder gasket won't last very long.
the best way is to make your own gasket out of some rubber-like gasket paterial.
sealing the carb to the intake, you need an o-ring to go inside the carb throat to sit where the intake seats against the carb throat.
it sure sounds like you have a massive air leak, or, your cable is binding causing the slide not to go all the way down.
I'm an electrician for an oil company. I know not to use silicone. I asked our mechanics for some shìt to use on my carburetor, this is the stuff they gave me. We use it on our natural gas compressors that are making somewhere around 1000 psi. It can be put back in service immediately as well.
Never had an issue sealing between my NT carbs. and the intake with the Permatex Ultra Gray RTV Silicone, never seen any signs of the fuel affecting it at all, one of my engines has been running strong with no leaks for over 2 years sealed with the Ultra gray RTV silicone, the other two engines I run have been good for a year or so as well, CLEAR silicone will break down in Gasoline, but I've never had any problems with silicone made to resist oil & fuel break down.
Just my experience here, not arguing any points or opinions made.
Peace, Map
Just my experience here, not arguing any points or opinions made.
Peace, Map
yeah you're right now that you mention it.
I have seen clear silicone be dissolved by gasoline.
I have also seen permatex orange rtv gasket maker (silicone) be dissolved by gasoline.
BUT, there are certain silicones / gasket makers that are made to be in contact with oil and gasoline.
I have seen clear silicone be dissolved by gasoline.
I have also seen permatex orange rtv gasket maker (silicone) be dissolved by gasoline.
BUT, there are certain silicones / gasket makers that are made to be in contact with oil and gasoline.
On one of my bikes I run the nt, I found that if I tightened the cap too tight it would bind the barrel in the carb so the spring could not close the barrel easly. After many trial runs I put my spare carb on to solve my problem. I think I bottomed the cap and ovaled the top of the carb, good luck.
that's an interesting possibility!
Gosh I hope something works to fix your motorized bicycle!
rc
Gosh I hope something works to fix your motorized bicycle!
rc
