I HAVE DONE IT!!!! I need to reverse engineer it so I can explain it, but I have done it! Headlight, tail light, brake and turn signals! YES!!!! IT CAN BE DONE!!! White wire goes thru bridge rectifier balanced with two tank capacitors (THANK YOU PILOTGEEK!!!) to a 6 volt SLA battery sold by ACE hardware, the one with 4.5 amphrs of service. From there, you ballast each LED with a resistor according to its' voltage drop and requirements (usually between 10 and 100 ohms). Three reds for the tail, three reds for the brake- use a beehive clearance light for the base unit and tag the breadboard into the unit with the bolt that mounts it to the plate. Turn signal require four amber beehives (or two amber two red) with three amber LEDs apiece (Two of the units need red if your are full red taling it)- when you run your leads, ALL negatives go to a common wire- DO NOT GROUND TO FRAME!!!- positives come from appropriate switches. The positive lead that feeds the switch for turn signals, run a green blinker LED without resistor in serise mounted near the switch and visible- this will blink the lights you activate and tell you the blinker is on. I have created a brake switch that works off the front brake and does not require the brake be dissassembled to instal. Works flawlessly. Headlight is a three LED $5 Home Depot flashlight head mounted into a 3" diameter PVC Endcap painted with fusion to match the bike.
How do I know the white wire works? IT RUNS THE LIGHTS AFTER I HAVE PULLED THE BATTERY!!! And does NOT dim at idle! Can't explain it, don't care to... but it has been nightrunning for a week now without hiccough!! I will do pix and schematics as soon as I can
How do I know the white wire works? IT RUNS THE LIGHTS AFTER I HAVE PULLED THE BATTERY!!! And does NOT dim at idle! Can't explain it, don't care to... but it has been nightrunning for a week now without hiccough!! I will do pix and schematics as soon as I can
