This is a new kit by grubee for GXH50 with modified gearbox:
HONDA GHH50 Installation kit
Is it good? where is it available for selling?
HONDA GHH50 Installation kit
Is it good? where is it available for selling?
Grubee Skyhawk Stage III ?
- Thread starter roninak
- Start date
Here in the US its available from Bicycle Engines, Motorized Bicycles, Bicycle Motors, Motored Bikes: 2-Stroke & 4-Stroke Kits! Its just an improved/upgraded version? of the Grubee 4-stroke kit. The gearbox seems to be where most of the changes have taken place. The gear box now uses 7bolts to hold the two halfs together and there is a gasket seal between the two halfs to seal it better for running it wet. Also there appear to be some changes with the engager and its cable attachment. They have come up with a new 3-piece crankset that seems like a really strange way to solve the need for wider crankset? It involves a new 9&1/4 in. long spindle, a chainring that is held in place with an over-sized cotter pin. bicycle-engines.com has the kit with or with out the motor.
ocscully
ocscully
Oscully pretty much sums it up. There is a cover over the engager to keep whatever fluid is inside from bubbling out and several enhancements to keep liquid from leaking....why?
I still don't know what fluid is supposed to work in the long term. I used 50-50 stop leak/gear lube- work Ok for a while, but slippage went up markedly and heat with slippage. I replaced that with auto transmission fluid which is designed to allow clutch lockup in its presence. Still had slippage and too much heat. Both quieted the transmission, but the slippage was too much to take. I replaced that with 7 or 8 ounces (an awful lot) of sticky, stringy "Green Grease" and the trans is acceptably quiet (no louder than with fluid), does not slip and get only a little warm (can easily rest your hand on it), not calf burning hot as it did with fluid.
If someone else knows of a better fluid, would love to hear it.
I still don't know what fluid is supposed to work in the long term. I used 50-50 stop leak/gear lube- work Ok for a while, but slippage went up markedly and heat with slippage. I replaced that with auto transmission fluid which is designed to allow clutch lockup in its presence. Still had slippage and too much heat. Both quieted the transmission, but the slippage was too much to take. I replaced that with 7 or 8 ounces (an awful lot) of sticky, stringy "Green Grease" and the trans is acceptably quiet (no louder than with fluid), does not slip and get only a little warm (can easily rest your hand on it), not calf burning hot as it did with fluid.
If someone else knows of a better fluid, would love to hear it.
Its my understanding that bicycle-engines/birddog are selling the newer stage III Their new shipment just came in last week and I'm pretty sure that they are only offering the Stage-III kit. Send them an e-mail or phone them to confirm?But they are selling the Stage II , this is the stage III... you can compare it to the old iphone and the 3g one
(Additional Information)
I just looked at the web pages at bicycle-engines.com and see the reason for the confusion. Bicycle-engines are still calling the kit the Stage II but there discription of what is included in the kit and also the photo of the kit / w motor is of the Stage III. When you go to the page for the install kit only no motor they show a photo of the old (last years kit) but the kit described is the new Stage III. Elsewhere I know of someone who just last week his new Install kit from bicycle-engines.com and the photos he has posted show it to be the New Stage III.
What makes a Stage II Kit is the older 3-bolt Gearbox all of the kis currently being offered from bicycle-engines have the new Sealed 7-Bolt Gearbox.
Hope this helps.
ocscully
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I just ordered a Grubee Skyhawk kit from bicycle-engines.com last Friday. According to Fed Ex it will be delivered this coming Friday so I'll post up if the gearbox has 3 or 7 bolts holding it together.
Grubee points out on the page linked in the OP that the internals of the gearbox are the same as the Skyhawk II- the only difference is the sealing (including the 7 bolts) and the engager cable.
Houghmade,
I had been reading several of your other posts about the 50/50 gear lube/stop leak working ok in your set up so I went ahead and bought those to put in my gearbox when I start putting it together, but it sounds like that doesn't work very good either. I'll see if the directions have any clue of what to use with these gearboxes or if it's just going to be a guessing game trying a bunch of different things. From all of the other posts it sounded like 50/50 was the way to go.
I had been reading several of your other posts about the 50/50 gear lube/stop leak working ok in your set up so I went ahead and bought those to put in my gearbox when I start putting it together, but it sounds like that doesn't work very good either. I'll see if the directions have any clue of what to use with these gearboxes or if it's just going to be a guessing game trying a bunch of different things. From all of the other posts it sounded like 50/50 was the way to go.
I say try it- maybe different brands make a difference, but over time, the slippage got worse and worse.
I bought the stage 111 from bicycle-engines to replace a hoot gearbox...I received it with no mounting bolts or gaskets...called them & they mailed the same only to find out that they sent bolts that would not screw into the HuaSheng engine. So far this has been a harrowing experience trying to adapt the stage 111 to replace a hoot. Guess I'll be an expert on this if I ever get it to work.......Doug
Has anyone disabled the engager on the Grubee 111 box so it run as a true centrifugal clutch. What is their reasoning for the extra lever. It is not used on go-carts with centrifugal clutches and a lot higher HP engines? RE:Grubee Skyhawk Stage 111
It's my understanding that that gearbox release is a nuetral for starting. Lot's of people start it w/ throttle on and bike takes off. So it's supposed to be safer. Rest assured those same people are the ones, no doubt that are slamming it in to gear @ high rpm's w/ the new ones and breaking the freewheel sprockets.
After replacing the Hoot gearbox with the Stage 111, I found that even with the engine at lowest idle, apparently the clutch is still spinning somewhat,, so when the engager was engaged it was so violent that it stalled the engine...my soultion was to zip tie the handle lever closed and leave it permently engaged....Anyone with a better solution, please let me know....
I removed the engager cable altogether and reversed the spring so that it is always engaged. The engager should NEVER be engaged with the engine above idle. If you engine engages the clutch at idle (after break in of the clutch)- adjust you idle speed lower.
I have a rear wheel stand for a kickstand and start the engine with the wheel in the air. It spins a bit at start up, but at idle when I drop it down on the wheels, no problem.
I have a rear wheel stand for a kickstand and start the engine with the wheel in the air. It spins a bit at start up, but at idle when I drop it down on the wheels, no problem.
The easy way- zip tie the handle down.
The slightly harder way- remove the handle and spring and wire it engaged.
The whole lot harder way- what I did.
The slightly harder way- remove the handle and spring and wire it engaged.
The whole lot harder way- what I did.
