Clutch cover screw size?
- Thread starter OCC
- Start date
Ditto, except the you might find the heads of the Allen head cap screws are a little too large to fit the counterbores where the original screws went. In that case you can either grind the heads to a smaller diameter or go back to screws which have the proper size heads.
And yes, they are 6mm X 1.0 thread. One (top right hand side looking at the left side of the engine) is longer than the other two because it was made to mount the kit supplied chain guard.
I'm wondering how you got home if all three screws fell out. The clutch would have been engaged with no way to disengage it. And, if that clutch actuator cover fell off you need to make sure there is still a steel pin protruding from the center of the drive sprocket and the ball bearing that goes in ahead of it.
Tom
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Thanks for telling me to check my pin and ball, good thing i put extra grease on it before i put it back together, i think thats why it stayed in and the only way i was able to kill the bike was with a kill switch the clucth must have been engaged the whole time....
I replaced all of mine with allen bolt TITANIUM screws- and NO GRINDING-
search ebay - here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-M6-16mm...ltDomain_0&hash=item1e65c903c2#ht_1436wt_1255
Did both engines when I had to roll the bikes up a flight of stairs
a pittance of the weight of steel and the allen key looks cleaner and tightens easier
There's actually several more on the motors one could replace with titanium- several longer ones-
and it's a little chunk of weight
with a 415 Industrial/Trike chain at half the weight
and losing the stupid heavy steel chain tensioner
and a featherweight alloy rear sprocket
bolted directly to a drilled flip/flop or disk brake freewheel hub to lose the heavy rag joint as well
it takes a kit down in weight actually quite a bit-
still looking for a lighter gas tank- cap at least especially
some day I'm going to get a scale and weigh it all
But a bike that barely weighs 40 lbs that can go 25 or 30
and rolls like a road bike
is a pretty efficient machine
Took the photo of the old '48 dodge near my house
while out on the old '67 Peugeot PX10 here in Jacksonville a few weeks ago
search ebay - here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-M6-16mm...ltDomain_0&hash=item1e65c903c2#ht_1436wt_1255
Did both engines when I had to roll the bikes up a flight of stairs
a pittance of the weight of steel and the allen key looks cleaner and tightens easier
There's actually several more on the motors one could replace with titanium- several longer ones-
and it's a little chunk of weight
with a 415 Industrial/Trike chain at half the weight
and losing the stupid heavy steel chain tensioner
and a featherweight alloy rear sprocket
bolted directly to a drilled flip/flop or disk brake freewheel hub to lose the heavy rag joint as well
it takes a kit down in weight actually quite a bit-
still looking for a lighter gas tank- cap at least especially
some day I'm going to get a scale and weigh it all
But a bike that barely weighs 40 lbs that can go 25 or 30
and rolls like a road bike
is a pretty efficient machine
Took the photo of the old '48 dodge near my house
while out on the old '67 Peugeot PX10 here in Jacksonville a few weeks ago
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I'd recommend you use Loctite thread sealer (medium strength) too when you get the replacement bolts. Bolts won't come loose then from the vibration.
My guess he is dealing with what I am.None of this bike stuff ( especially China origin ).. NO ONE HAS THE COURTESY TO POST BOLT SIZE SPECIFICATIONS !!!! No mechanical illustrations with parts numbered. No parts lists. No part numbers. A good racket to sell you stuff that doesn't fit and hope you are too frustrated to send it back requesting a refund.. When you rebuild a Muncie four speed you have pro mechanical ILLUSTRATIONS..Parts lists. Proper terminology of the part name. It is professionally laid out. These idiots selling this stuff do not even know what " CONSTANT MESH " means..They don't know that 99.99% of motors run counter clockwise. If you need to reverse the direction to CLOCKWISE the gear box needs two meshed internal gears. ( Duh? ) HENCE : " CONSTANT MESH " ! Oh thank you ( bicycle industry ) for telling us stuff like : that little piece of tubing / pipe that the pedals fit into is called a BOTTOM BRACKET. I would love to see bicycles and this China stuff get their act together.. If I ever go into manufacturing a brand name. I am going to treat You right. Exploded diagrams. Part numbers. Manuals. Bolt and thread pitch specs..If you want to copy and build your own parts...BE MY GUEST..KEEP THE EDUCATION COMING .
I went through the search for the correct bolt size...yes 6mm. X 1.0mm was the closest thing I could find. And it is a loose sloppy fit.. ( piss poor haha )..All I can say is either put a ton of blue LOCTITE on them . Or wrap the **** out of them with TEFLON TAPE. DO NOT USE RED LOCTITE , YOU MIGHT NEED TO HEAT THEM WITH A TORCH ( to get them loose )& IGNITE GASOLINE ON THE ENGINE , or oil..Teflon tape is good on oil drain plugs too..it keeps the threads tight & seals against leaking..matter of fact, I have had blue LOCTITE back out LOOSE, Costs a ton..Hard to squirt out , then half the tube shoots out and wasted. WHEREAS , TEFLON TAPE WORKS AND I remember paying a whopping $0.40 cents for a roll of Teflon tape vs $6 for a dinky little tube of blue LOCTITE ( sorry LOCTITE company.. Momma said " Life is not always fair " that applies to you too ! )
Pulling up a thread that died in 2013 (& going on a rant) is kinda like talking to the dead 
