Rear axle bent..

GoldenMotor.com

vwine

New Member
Jan 27, 2010
93
0
0
36
germany
I cant even remove the nut on the bent side.... I can fix the axle if I can get the nut off it. I cant even remove the wheel cause of it.. has anyone else ever had this happen? :-||
 

vwine

New Member
Jan 27, 2010
93
0
0
36
germany
Corgi..
disregard.. I got it.!!!

I soaked it in WD40, and waited a few minutes.. then Heated it up really good (wd40 is flamable duh)
Then hit it with a hammer to break it.. It got about 3 turns.. just enough to remove my rim.
I now upgraded to Kevlar lined tires and supposedly self sealing tubes... Ill see how this works.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Years and years ago I had the same problem while working on a "curb find" bike.
I ended up having to thread the bearing cones in the hub away from the jammed nut, effectively offsetting the hub away from the damaged axle end.
Here's how you do it: Loosen up the good axle nut, loosen up both cone lock nuts and thread the axle out from the jammed up side enough to slide the wheel out of the dropouts. You will have to sort of walk the axle out, jumping from nut to nut as they tighten up on you.
A pain in the but to do but at least the dropout and hub did not get buggered.
You need cone wrenches to do this.
 

vwine

New Member
Jan 27, 2010
93
0
0
36
germany
Years and years ago I had the same problem while working on a "curb find" bike.
I ended up having to thread the bearing cones in the hub away from the jammed nut, effectively offsetting the hub away from the damaged axle end.
Here's how you do it: Loosen up the good axle nut, loosen up both cone lock nuts and thread the axle out from the jammed up side enough to slide the wheel out of the dropouts. You will have to sort of walk the axle out, jumping from nut to nut as they tighten up on you.
A pain in the but to do but at least the dropout and hub did not get buggered.
You need cone wrenches to do this.

Damn, sounds like a pain in the butt lol. I def. see that working though, obviously it does since you did it. Thanks for the advice and if this happens again I will keep that idea in mind. Thanks. vw
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
the new WD40 isn't flammable. i was trying to start my BBQ with it the other day and it wouldn't light.

i've done the same thing as gearnut many times on old rusty bikes. there's a lot of older hubs where the axles aren't threaded all the way. you can still get the wheel off with that method, but you have to hacksaw the axle.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
What is the old adage?
'If moves and you don't want it to, Duct Tape. If it won't move and you want it to, WD-40' ;-}
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
i never liked WD40 as a lubricant. it wasn't designed for that. it was designed to keep the rust off all the old atlas missles the US was stockpiling during the cold war. WD stands for Water Displacement.

it works awesome to clean and protect metal surfaces from rust, but ain't so good as a lubricant or a bolt free-er.
 

DudeZXT

New Member
Jun 20, 2010
115
0
0
Lexington, KY
My uncle told me about having soaked a very expensive Remington shotgun with WD-40 and taking it out a year later and it was covered in rust ~ I wouldn't trust the stuff for anything, either...

Anybody know what ever happened to slick 50? I used to buy oil (Pennzoil or Quaker State) that had it pre-mixed in and I've been wondering if it was just a sham, since I can't find it anymore...
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
As this thread takes a typical turn as most do, the best rust arrester and preventative I know of is Fluid Film. It is a thermally stable lanolin based lubricant. It stays slippery forever unlike the WD40 garbage.