Afraid of dual-pull brake levers?

i use my front break to stop(works ok),but i will be hooking up my rear brake.
im putting another (free)brake lever somewhere on the handlebars.

Just checking.......did this ever go anywhere. Its an old thread but maybe something has been done since. Is there a dual braking lever available or has someone else hooked up both calipers to one lever and how was it done. Trying to clean up the handlebar clutter and not use a derailer setup for the clutch. I really like the stopping power of the hydraulic braking systems. Thanks for any info.

Hey fonzie, yeah, you definitely pulled a Tales From the Crypt here. This is the right kind of thread to do it in tho!

There's a couple ways to bury your issue (sorry, had to). There are dual-pull brake levers ranging from the cheapie $10 Pyramid to the $60 Paul Components Duplex lever. I've even seen a thread where a guy made his own dual-pull by grafting 2 levers together. Sorry I can't point you to it, it was a long while back.

Another way is using a cable doubler. Some motorcycle shops sell doublers for dual carbs on single throttle and there's also options like the Problem Solvers Cable Doubler. I use two of those on my bike, it has 4 brakes and 2 levers.

Anyway, there's at least a couple of options!

Thanks for the reply! I guess I didn't read the entire thread and there is a mixture of brake discussions in it. I did a search for dual hydraulic brakes and it brought me to this thread. Sorry if I did something wrong. My interest is the section where creative engineering speaks about operating both the front and rear hydraulic calipers with one brake lever. I was wondering if anyone has had any success with coming up with a system. Since we are talking about safety in this matter, it can't be some homemade that is suspect to failure. Anyhow, if anyone has had any experience with one brake lever operating front and rear brakes, I would really appreciate any info.
Thanks again.

IMO, the mechanics of a bicycle brake can't see that patch of sand on the asphalt in the radius of the turn I am making and can not make an adjustment to the front/rear braking pressure that I would, manually.

Whoosh! goes the front tire!!!
Down goes the fat guy.
I don't like hitting that pavement much at all.

I suppose the computer controlled braking systems on very high dollar automobiles work quite well, but they have a different set of parameters to work with.

IMO
rc

I've never had problems adjusting the brake bias on store bought dual brake levers or the ones I make. For me it just takes a little time to get it just right and staying on top of the adjustments as pads wear down.

I like them and use them whenever I need too.

I was afraid of them too- thinking a mechanical failure could leave me drifting-

But I've used them on two builds now for over three years and had no problems at all-

I've taken recently to slowing down as much as I can in anticipation of stopping- but that's just to save pad wear. I'd be more inclined to want to rig two calipers in a row on a wheel- the brakes just don't have the response they do on a road bike that's lighter- and the speed from which we have to stop is usually greater. And I'm a little bit heavier than back in the day I guess- who isn't?


so I just try to keep the wheels really true and the cables adjusted as tight as I can.
I've found that the shorter the reach the better the response really is- less metal to flex I guess- but that's something you have to be sensitive too-

anyway, it may be more excuse to use thinner tires and wheel, because you can then perhaps get brakes with a shorter reach- It cuts the overall weight too. Aa typical cruiser fork will require a fairly short reach with a 27" or 700C wheel- the back brake needs to be longer though, and the ones I'm using are adequate, but not as high quality or stiff as they could be with just a bit thicker alloy.

I had a Campy Veloce on the front of one of mine, (but it is too short on my shock fork) and I wanted the complete set for a road bike- so I replaced it with a longer reach Shimano that is stll a pretty good vintage brake- but I can tell the difference- and I think it is in the length of the arms mostly- but I am gonna get longer pads- so that is bound to help.

When riding on clean, dry asphalt I use my front brake almost exclusively... water, sand or leaves on the road & the back brake comes into play some, snow & ice & I'll rarely use the brakes at all but if I do, it's the rear ofc - as a result I'd never even think of a dual pull on the winter beater bike lol

I've had a dual pull on my sunny summer cruiser & while I loved how it tidied up the bars a bit... I've never liked it's "numb" feel, never liked the feeling of uncertainty braking in a turn, never liked the unalterable 50/50 split - so after two years of "debating" with myself I tossed it for the more traditional two wheeler braking, dual levers for dual brakes.

The results? I shoulda done it from the start lol

Thing is, I'd not say dual pull brake levers are "bad" or even dangerous... but I would say they're overrated, as are the concerns of having a clutch & brake lever on the same bar overstated. I think it depends entirely on your choices - your riding conditions, habits & style.

When I had a manual hand clutch I found the dual lever very handy for everyday commuting but come time for a good thrash around and I was in favour of the individual levers especially in wet conditions.
Now I have a motor with a cent. clutch setup I have opted for the single pull levers again for more control over varying surfaces.
Sometimes you wanna use the fronts more or visa versa IMO.