Checking my logic

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Greenbiker

New Member
Feb 12, 2016
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Oklahoma
Im preparing to do a build involving a jackshaft. I need to check my logic here to make sure im thining correctly. Once i replace the standard crank with the new crank from sick bike parts, the front crank is now freewheel right, it will turn the aprockets, but it will NOT back pedal right? So if im using a coaster brake on that set up i wont be able to engage it right?
Am i wrong here? Seems like if a freewheel catches in one direction, it won't catch in the opposite, cause thats kinda the point right? If im wrong please tell me how cause i got this picture in my head that i wont be able to back pedal with the jackshaft.
Thanks
 

Greenbiker

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Feb 12, 2016
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Oklahoma
Right, what i am wondering is if this basically renders my coaster brake moot, in pther words i will have to i stall a rim brake, as there will be NO was for the coaster to become engaged right? Heres the thing im willing to spend money on this, but if i can get wheels from husky with a coaster brake for a lot cheaper than what i can get a custom job without the cpaster somewhere else, then i will go woth husky becaise the jackshaft will obviate the coaster brake which is what i want to do anyway, i want to use a rim in back and a drum up front.
 
Yeah unfortunately the shift kit will render the coaster brake inoperable. I do know some guys on here will have a lot more useful advice and ideas for you regarding this matter, as many of them have dealt with this same situation multiple times. I'm sure a few of em will chime in soon. Sorry I haven't been much help.
 

Greenbiker

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Feb 12, 2016
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Oklahoma
Unfortunate for you maybe, im pretty happy about it, i didnt want the coaster brake, so thats perfect. But thats what i wanted to know. So i will have to buy a brake for the back wheel. Well i was doing that any way. So that works for me. Thanks!
 
Jan 17, 2015
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Coaster brake rims I've come across have a a slant to the lip of the rim, they were not flat,or sq to the the axis. So when you use linear pull brakes the pad wants to slide down, rather then apply sq pressure to the rim. Compare rims if you have a mountain bike rim.
 

Greenbiker

New Member
Feb 12, 2016
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Oklahoma
Well if i do this it will most likely be with the husky wheels. Im pretty sirr i asked the guy if they could be used with rim brakes and he said yeah. I coukd be wrong though.
 
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s2focus

New Member
Feb 12, 2016
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Henderson, NV
I like to think of v brakes as drum brakes on a car. Great as a parking brake while stationary, not so much to slow things down. Disc brakes are much better at slowing things down without locking the wheel up and handle heat much better. I've had the disc brakes so hot on my mtb that you could smell the metal cooking and yet they still provided ample braking ability. To each his own but that's just my preference.
 

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
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If you use a drum brake already on the front wheel, I'd guess that it good for the reason of no water wetting the braking there.

Disks I understand work still better in stopping usually than the drum brake. The disk is up higher than the rim from the ground, so compared to the v-brake using rims the disk is less likely to get wet and have to dry before full braking can be achieved again.

Even with all that said, of the rim brakes the v-brake is best. I always thought center pull over side pull, but v-brakes have more leverage maybe I hear. I made welds to my frame to add the bosses to attach v-brakes from another scavenged bike.

They are OK on my bike the v-brakes, but I know if you have the funds or have a lot of weight and are going to go fast, safer to spend on the disks, or drum and disk.

Let me tell you about water on the rims, just note outside turn and a cliff edge, the mix is bad. I travel on just off road as I have legal only for that for my build with no pedals. I check the trails slow at first and get to know them, then I can know where streams are and drop offs!

MT
 

Greenbiker

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Feb 12, 2016
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Oklahoma
I will have a drum on the front for sure. I think between the drum and the v i can avoid over heating. I dont need super fast top end, so if my build ends up being too hot with the four stroke, i will be using a locking clutch lever as a throttle, so its not hard to put a block behind it to limit the top end i can accidentally achieve that can still be disengaged easily to open it up if i need or want to.