Check out the forks on this build

GoldenMotor.com

atombikes

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
525
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Northern VA
That can't handle well. Loads of negative trail, and not enough reach on the handlebars to compensate.



And while we're on the topic, how does one sit on this bike and pedal? I suppose the question is; how short would your legs have to be in order for this to be comfortable?

Looks very cool, though.
 

moonerdizzle

New Member
Jun 28, 2009
874
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Cheese head capitol
thats a cool ride, but it wouldnt be hard to pedal that., i had a haro frame where with the seat down my pedals would hit the seat, i used to ride that sitting down all the time.
 

atombikes

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
525
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Northern VA
Forks are way cool to look at. How would you suggest them to have been attached?
If you were to strike an imaginary line down thru the headtube on the frame, it should meet the ground approximately 1-2" in front of where the tire is sitting on the ground. This would be considered standard bicycle geometry, for a frame that has approx. 68-70 degree headtube angle. On the bicycle shown in the pic, this imaginary line meets the ground far behind where the tire contacts the ground. This condition is known as negative trail and results in very "darting" handling.

A fork as shown on this bike is meant for a frame that has a slacker headtube angle, like a chopper. This slacker headtube angle will result in positive trail.

Or as RicksRides says, more rake on the fork.
 

rustycase

Gutter Rider
May 26, 2011
2,746
5
0
Left coast
Yup!
It's gonna be a bear to steer.
..and yer really gonna have to 'steer' it!

But I like it!
The doubled mc forks, stacked, looks neato!
The whole motorized bicycle looks neato!

No prob with the seat-to-pedal distance... only need to pedal a few feet to get a motor started... then it's off to the races! lol

Thinkin' more abt it.. my kid's suspension fork just came un-done on his mtb... slow pedaling on a level street! the upper tube came out of the triple tree and the spring shot out, up over his shoulder... it was a very abrupt stop for him. Good thing he was going very slow! I put a pic of it up, somewhere... it was a marzocchi fork on a specialized bike. never been jumped much, or abused.

But thanks for posting the pic of that $2,500 motorized bicycle !
rc
 

Dobyns

New Member
Aug 16, 2012
42
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Kenosha
Ive actually talked to the maker of this bike and he believes that you only need to pedal to start it (standing up) ... hes located in chicago.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
Kind of a shame to build a bike with that level of customization, just to stick a china motor in it. I'm not knocking china motors, I have one myself (though hopefully not for too much longer) and I have enjoyed the time I've spent riding with it. I just think a bike that you put that much thought and effort into ought to get a decent motor thats more reliable than a china 2 smoker.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Take a second look at the rear dropouts. I would not trust the frame to take that kind of load on the frame's thin factory stamped steel dropouts. I do hope that they were reinforced.

The bike as a whole looks really cool, but highly impractical to ride.
 

the chief

New Member
Dec 9, 2012
24
0
0
chicago
well, i wasn't going to join the forum to address rampant speculation on my own builds but i can't help myself any more. ok starting at the top, plain and simple this bike is not meant to pedal other than start up. that should be pretty evident from the build in general, but i do understand that there are people on the opposite end of the spectrum from me, who feel that these should retain the function of a pedal bicycle as well as work under motor power, i am not one of them. that being said, at six one i would sit to pedal start it without trouble or discomfort. did run out of gas once, had to pedal for a bit(sat the whole time), it wasn't my idea of a great time, but it wasn't atrocious either. when riding under motor power it was very comfortable. so to answer atombikes on how short would ones legs need to be for this to be comfortable..... not very short.

on handling, the wheel base was 57 inches, it wasn't supposed to be nimble (the wheelbase on a honda cb750 is 57.3 inches for reference). i build more towards form than function, to me function is worthless without form, but form alone can be pretty cool for short trips. that being said i didn't build this expecting it to handle well. it surprised me the first time i rode it, a little unruly under 5mph (startup speed) but handled quite well under motor power. after riding it a couple times, i either adapted or it magically fixed itself, as i didn't notice this anymore. at speed it was very steady and stable, more of a leaner than a steerer. it had a very firm, planted feeling. a pleasure to ride.

on rake, the simplest solution is usually the best solution, instead of messing with cutting and welding the frame, it would be far easier to move the wheel backwards, inbetween the two forks reducing the negative trail. since handling wasn't an issue, i had no need to do either.

bbb, thank you, but i would have to disagree on using the chinagirl, they are easy to work on and have readily available replacement parts at very reasonable prices. when set up correctly, they are pretty trouble free with routine maintence. they get a bad rap because people who don't know what they are doing use them to turn a bicycle into a motorcycle, and then blame the kit for their own incompetence. yeah the magnetos will sometimes burn up, and the sparkplug caps are super cheap, but i would say per dollar they can't be beat. comparing them to more expensive engines isn't fair, its like comparing sugar ray to ali, would ali beat the crap out of sugar ray? sure, but that doesn't mean he is the superior fighter.

gearnut, you are the one that got me here, by far the best, least presumptious critique on the post. high five. it was a bit brief, but i presume you are talking about increased force on the factory dropouts due to the leverage caused by my dropout extensions. great observation. what you can't see in the pic is that the extensions are welded to the dropouts, giving a total thickness of 5/16, (stock dropout is 1/8) those dropouts aren't going anywhere without the rest of the frame.

here is my other model of fork, and superior in my opinion, better ride and handling, and before anyone says anything about pedaling, look at the front sprocket, you're not pedaling anywhere other than to startup. also this bike isn't finished, need to switch out the cranks to 3 inch and pedals, finish the exhaust, and the angle of the tank is off. oh and before we get to trail and rake again, the wheel can be put anywhere in front a vertical line from the connecting point of the shock forward.


IMGP0677 by Thunderchief Cycles, on Flickr
 

azbill

Active Member
May 18, 2008
3,358
5
38
63
Fountain Hills, Arizona
I like those forks :)
I like the other ones as well ;)
can you give any build info on the new ones,,,ie: link for the shocks or any other info ?

oh, and welcome to the forum !!!
 

the chief

New Member
Dec 9, 2012
24
0
0
chicago
thanks guys, don't have a link for the shocks, but they are adjustable, and stock setup is 650lb to compress one inch. the fork itself is also adjustable for ride height. can be made with very little negative trail or a lot if you really want that front wheel out there. i always loved the look of the bent springer forks, but my god those things were deathtraps, way too flimsy, so i came up with these instead, am very pleased, which i prefer of the two depends on the proportions of the build.