My brakes do not have the stopping power they once had, and now I'm up in the N.C. mountains versus on Florida flat ground, I'm realizing that they should be addressed. Looked at the pads, they look worn, but not in too bad of shape. However when I squeeze the brake lever, the V brakes almost are pinched together. Was wondering what if I added washers to the back of the brake pads? Was thinking this would not cause the V brakes to squeeze as close together with the same brake lever effort, thus increasing my braking power? Anyone have any experience doing this? Thanks,
Brake Pads/Add Washers?
- Thread starter Albula vulpes
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Short answer: yes, you can add washers.
Long answer: If you look closely at the pads, they should have 2 different thicknesses of bevel washers on each side of the pad bolt. One thick, one thin. If the thinner one is on the inside, go ahead and swap em around. Just make sure you get the order correct, or the pads can't be adjusted correctly. If the thicker one is already on the inside, you can add washers before or after the 2 beveled ones that allow pad angle adjustment.
I recommend you replace your pads rather than add washers tho. Looks aren't everything with brake pads. They might be cooked.
Long answer: If you look closely at the pads, they should have 2 different thicknesses of bevel washers on each side of the pad bolt. One thick, one thin. If the thinner one is on the inside, go ahead and swap em around. Just make sure you get the order correct, or the pads can't be adjusted correctly. If the thicker one is already on the inside, you can add washers before or after the 2 beveled ones that allow pad angle adjustment.
I recommend you replace your pads rather than add washers tho. Looks aren't everything with brake pads. They might be cooked.
Thanks,
I just got back from Lowes before I got any replies.........................
Found the correct size washers. 6mm, they sell a 10pk. and it cost me .73cents. Put 2 on each side of the front brake pads just to try, haven't done the back yet. It increased the leveraging power and I do have greater stopping power, however.....I think you might be right about the pads. Even though my original leveraging is back to normal, the bike does not stop like it used to when I first got it. It is better than what it was, but new pads might be in order. The pads did look a little more worn after I took them off. Thanks again for the info. I did not know about the reversal of the shims/washers on the pads.
I just got back from Lowes before I got any replies.........................
Found the correct size washers. 6mm, they sell a 10pk. and it cost me .73cents. Put 2 on each side of the front brake pads just to try, haven't done the back yet. It increased the leveraging power and I do have greater stopping power, however.....I think you might be right about the pads. Even though my original leveraging is back to normal, the bike does not stop like it used to when I first got it. It is better than what it was, but new pads might be in order. The pads did look a little more worn after I took them off. Thanks again for the info. I did not know about the reversal of the shims/washers on the pads.
I think I might be alright.......................................
I installed the washers in back as well and the stopping power is good with the original pads even though I've got pretty close to 5,000 miles on them.
I just got back from the top of a mountain that has the elevation of 3,600 ft. It was beautiful up there. I saw several wild turkeys including a momma with about 4 chicks. They were pretty cool looking. Had no problems descending and the pads seem alright, passed about 5 roadies climbing as I was descending.
Made it to the top with very little pedaling with a 1" friction roller and it was a pretty steep grade. If the roads were wet though, forget about it. The friction drive could not climb it if the roads were wet.
I installed the washers in back as well and the stopping power is good with the original pads even though I've got pretty close to 5,000 miles on them.
I just got back from the top of a mountain that has the elevation of 3,600 ft. It was beautiful up there. I saw several wild turkeys including a momma with about 4 chicks. They were pretty cool looking. Had no problems descending and the pads seem alright, passed about 5 roadies climbing as I was descending.
Made it to the top with very little pedaling with a 1" friction roller and it was a pretty steep grade. If the roads were wet though, forget about it. The friction drive could not climb it if the roads were wet.
Here's my advice on worn out brake pads:
Set of decent pads: $5.99 (Amazon.com)
Trip to the ER: $1049 (National Center for Health Statistics the average.)
Also, use some brake cleaner to spray down your rims. Grease and gunk on your rims makes a big difference.
Set of decent pads: $5.99 (Amazon.com)
Trip to the ER: $1049 (National Center for Health Statistics the average.)
Also, use some brake cleaner to spray down your rims. Grease and gunk on your rims makes a big difference.
Waste is a thief.....................................
No need for new brake pads, braking is fine with the addition of new washers. If worse comes to worse, I've got my Old Cannondale up here that I had a Staton Gear box crap out on me that I can take the brake pads off it when my others get to the point they need to be replaced.
No need for new brake pads, braking is fine with the addition of new washers. If worse comes to worse, I've got my Old Cannondale up here that I had a Staton Gear box crap out on me that I can take the brake pads off it when my others get to the point they need to be replaced.
In my opinion, it's like putting a priceless vase on a cheap wobbly shelf.
If you're gonna spend the money on a motorbike, you might as well chip in a tiny bit more for new brakes.
If you're gonna spend the money on a motorbike, you might as well chip in a tiny bit more for new brakes.
