Questions

deacon · Jul 29, 2008

We need a place to ask each other questions. Since our engines are not the china bike engines we need help from others using alternate engines.

Let me start. I had to swap out the carb on a chainsaw I'm using. I put on the carb from a 31cc ryobi weedeater. It starts and it reves to a point then bogs down at the top end. Which needle needs adjusting. They are color coded so if you know the color it would be a big help ...

I know one is high end and one low I just dont know which is which.

Im going to be stripping down and remounting the engine this morning so if you know please answer so I check back before i start trying to run it again.

thanks deacon

Bikeguy Joe · Jul 29, 2008

deacon, see if this helps.
Walbro Carb Tune up!

handy_Biker · Jul 29, 2008

If its a walbro, the screw nearest the engine is the Idle/low speed, the one farthest from the engine is the HighSpeed. I have read several different scenerios on them, and after having to tune the three different ones I've been dealin with.. the idle and low speed DO have some effect on high speed ( smooth transition from low to high). When the engine seems to 'stumble' when accelerating, or hard to start, its usually needs to be tuned richer ( turn screw in. The differences of running good and running at all is sometimes as small as one screwdriver blade width.

Hope thats of some help

handy_Biker · Jul 29, 2008

Deacon, about your 31cc front mount... are you able to drag / compression start it or do you have to use the rope start ??

muddawg · Jul 29, 2008

theres almost always a little "L" and "H" on theese carbs

clean it up and youll see them
those plastic things ,theyre just there to keep you from adjusting yer carb very much

thanks to the epa

and yep you need to adjust the high speed first

good luck
mike

deacon · Jul 29, 2008

I think i got it by accident. I wont know till tomorrow.

no I never can get the 31cc to drag start anywhere. I think it is just too much compression for it to move fast enough. If I get enough tension to turn it over constantly the bike is too hard for me to pedal.

It runs much much better with just a little tension. I use a spring for tension and they vary in strength. The one on the 31cc front mount is more than a screen door spring but you can pull is some by hand. I have some so tight it is almost impossible to pull them at all.

I just change them till i find the one that works the best.

deacon · Jul 31, 2008

Since nobody else has a question I'll ask another one.

As most of you know I have a bunch of old bike parts from bikes I junked out. I have a couple of old brake sets laying about so today I stuck one on the front of the chainsaw bike.

But when it clamps on the wheel it doesn't seem to have any effect. I figured the rubber on the brake pads had dried out. A few minutes ago I gave the pads a light sanding. I thought I would give that a try before I bought new pads.

Anyone ever try that?

Ilikeabikea · Jul 31, 2008

I've never tried that. I have in the past used a mixture of bleach and water to soften rubber. I had an old reel to reel that the rubber on the drive wheel got dried and stiff and I couldn't find another so I soaked it in bleach and water and it softened it up where it worked for a few more years....................

deacon · Jul 31, 2008

I was playing music on my reel to reel in the sixties when it started to drag. My cousin said use some alcohol to clean it. I said I don't think i have any. He walked into the kitchen and came back with a shot of vodka... It worked lol.

Ilikeabikea · Jul 31, 2008

Reel to reel, we must be old fogey's Deacon. I finally threw my old reel to reel in the dumpster about 2 years ago. That dang drive wheel.................................

handy_Biker · Jul 31, 2008

I bet Deacon could have saved that reel-to-reel with a piece from the plumbing dept at the hardware store

deacon · Jul 31, 2008

that thing went away before I realized I could have done anything at all with it. Today I would have used the motor to turn a tiny wench to lift the engine off the rear wheel.

deacon · Aug 1, 2008

Next question

In the use of my gravity clutch I make a scissors hinge from a couple of bits of metal. So I'm thinking pop rivets from the joints. Someone here uses them I'm sure so how good are they.

Ilikeabikea · Aug 1, 2008

Steel rivets would probably work. Aluminum might not be able to take it....................

eDJ · Aug 1, 2008

Deacon, I keep some old sardine cans around my shop as they are shallow
and I can soak small parts in them.

I've used sand paper on my old black rubber brake pads to break the glaze that forms on them. That helps a bit. But I pour a bit of brake fluid into the sardine can and place the brake pads in the fluid. The rubber absorbs the fluid and swells up and is rejuvenated within an hour or two. I've never left them in the fluid overnight but it does the trick for me. I've never tried it on the red rubber
pads though. The black rubber ones I've had and ran were hard as rocks anyhow.

A few days ago in one of the threads Deacon you were asking if anyone knew of the needle settings on the carb for a Ryobi. Did you ever find anything or get an answer ?

I've been working on my old McCullough super wind stream gas vac blower and trying to find my owners manual. The carb has 3 adjustment screws One under the belcrank to the throttle and to the side the high and low adjustment screws. I'm looking for a link to a "how to site" that gives the directions.

Anyone know of someplace ?

deacon · Aug 2, 2008

The way I think that works is the one by itself is the idle adjustment. I started with the other two at three turns out. I had to adjust both of them. On is to smooth it out in the lower positions the other is the top end. I had to open both of mine up about half a turn. So I think three and a half out might be normal.

Then again it is a 31cc carb on a 33 cc engine so I can't be sure about anything. I hope I have it ready to test ride today. Of course I said that yesterday as well.

Thanks for the brake tip. Like most things once you mentioned it I remember the old brake fluid trick for the rubber parts of a transmition. If you had he cajones to try it.

Speaking of things with to try if you have the nerve. My dad used drain the oil then pour kerosene down the oil fill tube of a sludge engine and work it with the starter a few time. Let it rest then work it a few more. He disconnected the coil so it wouldn't fire. Then pull the oil Plug out and drain it. Fill it with oil and run it a few miles then change the oil. Im not sure what it did, I never had the nerve to do it.

deacon · Aug 3, 2008

Help the Deacon before death destruction and a 12 guage in the mouth....

Just kidding but I am literally an inch from insanity. My gravity clutch works great but because the throw on a brake lever is so short, it is difficult to get the best adjustment from a standard brake lever. I need something that throws about a half to an inch more.

Does anyone have a clue or should I buy a vowel.

Bikeguy Joe · Aug 3, 2008

If you mean you need a clutch lever with more throw, loosen the lever and slide it toward the bend in the bars...each degree of bend you use will increase the amount the lever will pull substantially.

handy_Biker · Aug 3, 2008

I wonder if you can heat the lever up with apropane torch and bend it a lil ??

deacon · Aug 3, 2008

I took that screw out completely and threw it in the trash. It seems to be do better, I will know the next time i ride it.

Son in law and I rode together. I let him ride the china girl bike and i rode the WW. The WW did great for about twenty minutes then the clutch kept getting out of adjustment and finally it just choked off everytime I had to stop it... I am going to have to do something. If this doesn't work it's back to the drawing board..

I have been riding that bike a weeks and things are still falling off lol. I have double nutted most things and soon I'll just spring for a tube of lock tight. Once I know the design is good I'll go with the red.

Thanks for the tip Joe

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