Gasline installation issue... on 4g t-belt

The 2 attached hoses are the carburetor vents. The fitting below the vent line on the right side of the motor [rope start side] is where the line from the gas tank attaches.

Have fun,

I have seen people route one hose to the other instead of dangle, but I'm not sure on that one. THe wires are kind of screwy. The green one from the switch is definitely a ground the question is do you ground it to the engine or not. Then the yellow should go to the black to kill the engine. The green from the engine should be 14v power out. But I am not positive on this, I hope someone can prove me wrong! Terry Blow would know, he supplies these engines, PM him.

Connect wire with the ring terminal to a bolt on the motor, attach the kill wire to the green wire from the motor [if it is connected to the lug on the ignition coil.

Sorry no 14 volt output. The extra black wire is most likely a ground and won't be needed [unless you want to use it to connect to the wire with the ring connector].

I would let the carburetor vent lines alone, and personally I wouldn't connect them together.

Have fun,

Quenton Guenther said:

Connect wire with the ring terminal to a bolt on the motor, attach the kill wire to the green wire from the motor [if it is connected to the lug on the ignition coil.

Sorry no 14 volt output. The extra black wire is most likely a ground and won't be needed [unless you want to use it to connect to the wire with the ring connector].

I would let the carburetor vent lines alone, and personally I wouldn't connect them together.

Have fun,

Click to expand...

Thanks for proving me wrong. You know now that I think about it, I was thinking of the CNS two stroke carb, not the 4-stroke.

Hmm, I though these new 4G kits had a power output for battery or lights. Anyone know which ones do?

Hi Tad Bit Tipsy,

There is a HS motor with an electrical system but it is so wide it may not be a sought after. I was also told it uses too much power and drags the motor down. With only 2 HP we can't afford to lower the available power very much.

We are working on a system that will be small and deliver enough power to run minimum lights, but we are so far behind in drive system production we had the shelve the electrics for a little while.

Have fun,

[email protected] said:

Turns out my kit didn't come with a gas line, easy problem to fix. Then I just cut the ends off the wires from the kill switch, and just spliced them together with the one's on the motor.... It LIVES!!!

I have had a 49cc and 80cc 2 stroke, and I already don't miss anything about them except their appearance and weight.

The only problem I have now is:

The three piece wide crank kit. I don't know how to tighten it. I don't really plan on pedaling unless in an emergency, but how in the world do you tighten them? I bought a 1 1/2" adjustable wrench to get the old crank off, but it doesn't do that great to tighten the new one... and on the right side, what is the deal with that ring that threads on to the "thingy", that screws into the plug?

I'd love a solution that involves tools I have, but any input is helpful. Thanks a lot guys!

Click to expand...

I just installed the three piece crank too. Kind of different but it works. The left side has left handed threads the right has right threads .Once the crank bearing race holders are tapped in and the three allen bolts connecting the two holders are screwed and connecting the two holders. screw the left side race [has a area for a crank shaft wrench] all the way in untill it stops. Insert crank axle with grease packed bearing in from the other side making sure the pedal sprocket end is on the right side Now slide the remaining grease packed bearin on to the crank axle and proceed to screw in the right side race untill it bottoms out on the crank axle. Now screw on the ring untill it stops. This is where you need two special types of spanner wrenchs. One to hold in place the bearing race and another to tighten the threaded ring against the bearing race. Tricky . Called jamming[tighting against each other]. I did it with a hammer and a punch. Hope this helps

Hello every one I would just like to say that I did not sell this kit but I have to problem helping anyone that needs help of this and or other kinds of problems with the 4G T Belt Drive. I am avalable 7 days a week 9am pacific time untill 1am or later I can solve this kind of problems with a 10 minute phone call. Call me anytime spred the word I AM HERE FOR YOU
PS those are some realy great pictures
Cheers
Terry

If your fix does not work for your new crank, go to a local bicycle shop they will do it for around 10 or 12 bucks. Most bike shops are pretty reasonable.

Yes the best way for me to show you is to post a pic Love to post pics
OK now in this pic you can see a brass screw on the carb that is close to the engine that screw is the rich and lean fuel mixture screw. From your explanation of the way your engine is running to me that says that your engine is running to lean. In order to make your engine run richer you need to turn the screw out counter clock wise. Do this 1/2 a turn at a time until the engine runs right you will have to adjust your idle screw as you adjust the mixture screw because as you adjust the mixing screw your engines RPM will rise or lower as you adjust it in or out. The Idle screw is the black screw with the X in it near the top of the carb on the same side of the engine.
Please let me know if what I have told you helps you
Thank you
Terry

Oh and by the way thank you for the great pictures I now use these picture for instructional use just like right now.
Cheers
Terry

Hunter did you get my email about the price drop on the GT2 combo deal ???

Well Hunter did any thing I tell you help???

Hi Hunter
Lets deal with the most important issue first on your three piece crank there are 3 large nuts. The first large nut on the left side of the bike is used for crank alignment. The second large bolt on the right side is for adjusting the tightness of your bearings in the crank. You set the bolt on the right side snug and then turn the crank and adjust the bolt until the crank spins smooth but snug with no play in the crank. Now the is the third nut the last nut that is the jam nut there is a special tool for tightening this nut but if you are careful and or to cheap like me you can use a punch and a hammer to lock this bolt in place but you have to take care that when you are whacking this nut tight that you don't over tighten the large nut for adjusting the bearing. If your are not confident with doing this you should take your bike to your local bike shop and they will gladly do it for you and should only cost around $15 .



I am pointing to the bolt with a white stick.
Now for the adjusting wrench is for adjusting the tension of the T belt on the back side of the transmission where the output shaft comes out to the 11 tooth drive sprocket. There are four bolts if you loosen those bolts you can now adjust the tightness of the T Belt. If you press your thumb very hard down on the T Belt you should only be-able to push it down about 1/2 an inch. If it is more than 1/2 an inch you need to adjust your T belt. Loosen the four bolts and use the spanner wrench to tighten the T Belt then re-tighten the four bolts and you are good to go.