Bearing Problems - Trying to identify/find parts

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moronic_kaos

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Apr 6, 2010
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So there's actually three parts of my bearing that I found to be broken (rear wheel coaster brake). The bearing itself snapped 3 pieces which resulted in the balls and shrapnel flying everywhere inside the hub, but I got a replacement at the bike shop today. But there's also two other things broken:
  1. The cone-shaped nut that the brake arm supports is all chipped up where the bearing rides along
  2. The outer cap that goes right underneath the brake arm is cracked where it overlaps the outside of the hub. Kind of like a staircase-shaped washer.

If you don't know what I'm talking about, I included the attached picture for reference. What are the technical names for these parts, and where can I find them? The guy at the bike shop (kinda old guy, didn't speak much English) wasn't able to tell me. I'd hate to have to part with a perfectly good hub for 2 items that are worth about 5 bucks.

EDIT: The reason for all this is that I must have not shaved enough off the inner part of the sprocket, as it does make contact with the outer cap. I think that cracked, which made the bearing somehow get loose, brake apart, and the shrapnel from that cut up the cone-shaped nut. I rode it for probably +300 miles this way. Seemed fine, just made a lot of noise.
 

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bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
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living the dream in southern california
"brake cone" is the technical name for it.

running without the dust cap is fine, as long as you stay out of dirt and water, which pretty much means, you should get another dust cap.

try to find a real bike shop and they might have the parts. or, look at thrift stores, flea markets or craigslist for a junked wheel.

better yet, throw it away and buy a wheel from Worksman, or a wheel from bikepartsusa.com with 12g. spokes and a shimano hub...
 

moronic_kaos

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Apr 6, 2010
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All the "real" bike shops don't carry things for 1 speed bikes, at least around here anyway. They stock all the like 40-speed bike stuff (I swear I saw a hub with +13 gears on the rear), but for cruiser bikes they all tell me to go where I go. And I'd rather not throw away a wheel I just paid $20 to re-spoke.

But I did get the thing back together. Ground off the outside of the nut where it was all torn up, and the bearing still fit on it perfectly fine so I'm not sure what the function of that outer metal was. Also took off the outer layer of the dust cap like the link above says how to do (used a cutting wheel instead). Works fine, no more noise and is smoother than factory (re-greased the whole thing). So I'll see how long it lasts.

The only thing that concerns me is there's about 1/2 millimeter gap between the dust cap and the hub which leads inside the hub. This thing is going to see A LOT of hard weather and crap once I get back to work. Will have to stay that way till I save the money to upgrade.

BTW: Love the worksman stuff. At least someone's producing a "heavy" bike.
 

corgi1

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Aug 13, 2009
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Maybe you can make a felt cover to block any larger debri that hits around the gap at the bearing,wont stop water ,but then the metal one was only a splash guard not a positive seal
 

moronic_kaos

New Member
Apr 6, 2010
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Connecticut
It's going to be complicated to make anything to cover it, cuz the hub moves but the cap doesn't. Doesn't bother me much though to pull it apart every few weeks and re-grease. More than mastered the coaster brake by now.

BTW: anyone that wants a good guide on how to do it:

Overhauling a Coaster Brake Bike
 

corgi1

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Aug 13, 2009
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I know but (way) older machines used felt as a dust cap It is saturated w/ grease and will touch (rub against) the edge of the hub thus creating a dirt and small rock barrier and the old ones lasted many years