I find that if I turn on the choke to try to start, all it does is flood the engine, however it starts and runs fine without the choke. Anyone else have this happen?
Ayone else find the choke useless?
- Thread starter TheNecromancer13
- Start date
*Raises Hand*
I pulled the choke plate right out of my carb, it kept bouncing up and down with the vibrations of the motor and choking it off.
that said, my carb seems to only have the option of running rich, it works but won't really adjust down at all.
the factory stock choke that comes with the motor kit really leaves a lot to be desired, just about anything else that works would probably be better.
I pulled the choke plate right out of my carb, it kept bouncing up and down with the vibrations of the motor and choking it off.
that said, my carb seems to only have the option of running rich, it works but won't really adjust down at all.
the factory stock choke that comes with the motor kit really leaves a lot to be desired, just about anything else that works would probably be better.
This can change over time- you may find yourself having to use it later- and I can't tell you why, but its been my experience
Agreed... Mine starts on the first pull with the choke on when it's cold out but very hard to start without the choke, I just leave the choke on for about 10 seconds then it'll idle on it's own.
On a warmer day like today it'll start on the second or 3rd pull without the choke..
Best to keep it on there...
if the choke stayed where I put it, it would be less of a worry, that said I am shopping for a better carb anyway, so the current one is a temporary solution with or without it's choke.
it was cold outside when I ran my bike with the choke, but it actually prevented me from starting the bike at all, I am assuming that for some reason my carburetor is acting choked off all the time, rather than fuss around trying to get it to run better my plan is to use it until I can purchase a 'real' carb.
it was cold outside when I ran my bike with the choke, but it actually prevented me from starting the bike at all, I am assuming that for some reason my carburetor is acting choked off all the time, rather than fuss around trying to get it to run better my plan is to use it until I can purchase a 'real' carb.
If you're using the stock NT carb, they can flood pretty easy if the choke is on and the engine don't fire right away. so far mine stays put but I use a pull starter and it starts on the first or second pull everytime when it's cold with the choke. Sometimes I open the choke, give a quick shot of starting fluid, close the choke and wait about 30 seconds when it's really cold and it'll fire on the first pull
There seem to be no hard and fast rule regarding use of the choke. It is like other aspects of the Chinese 2 stroke. They all seem to have different personalities and needs. Use of the choke, and/or how to use it seems to be by personal experience and preference.
Some find it necessary. Some fine it useless. You need to do what works for you and ignore what others tell you. The same goes for many other facets of the the motorized bicycle world. What works for some doesn't for others.
Don't worry about what other builders say. Do what works for YOU! If your engine responds, starts and runs without using the choke...then go ride and enjoy your bike.
Tom
Some find it necessary. Some fine it useless. You need to do what works for you and ignore what others tell you. The same goes for many other facets of the the motorized bicycle world. What works for some doesn't for others.
Don't worry about what other builders say. Do what works for YOU! If your engine responds, starts and runs without using the choke...then go ride and enjoy your bike.
Tom
Probably safe to say that no two China 2 strokes act the same. Each with their own personalities if you will...
Guys I have found on the bikes I've built that the leaner the tune or the closer I get to the correct jet size the more I need the choke. A full flowing air filter like sbp sells will also require more choke to richen the air intake, at least it did on mine. But as always "your results may not be the same".
Greg
That's kinda what I have found as well. Usually choke it just until it "pops off" and then little to no choke after that first fire. Sometimes if the outside temp is cold enough I may have to run 1/2 choke for a minute before turning it off, but in normal riding weather for me it is just choke till it pops off and then off with the choke.
That's kinda what I have found as well. Usually choke it just until it "pops off" and then little to no choke after that first fire. Sometimes if the outside temp is cold enough I may have to run 1/2 choke for a minute before turning it off, but in normal riding weather for me it is just choke till it pops off and then off with the choke.
Other factors in regards to using, or not using a choke are temperature, humidity, altitude above sea level, spark plug gap, compression, and as Greg said, carburetor tuning. All of these and a few more will come into play when starting a cold engine. I think we've all experienced that once the engine is warmed it will start easier than when cold.
Personally, at 6000' above sea level and how my carbs are tuned, with Colorado's typical low humidity, 1/2 choke on a cold engine seems to be the ticket. Ten to fifteen seconds of run then full open. It usually takes my engines about a block to get up to good operating temperature and then everything is smooth. This seems to work regardless of outdoor temperature but I'll admit I'm a fair weather rider and don't usually venture out when the thermomenter drops below 40 F.
Tom
Personally, at 6000' above sea level and how my carbs are tuned, with Colorado's typical low humidity, 1/2 choke on a cold engine seems to be the ticket. Ten to fifteen seconds of run then full open. It usually takes my engines about a block to get up to good operating temperature and then everything is smooth. This seems to work regardless of outdoor temperature but I'll admit I'm a fair weather rider and don't usually venture out when the thermomenter drops below 40 F.
Tom
Seems to me the choke is hit or miss when it comes to these engines. If you ride your bike every day then you probably don't need the choke and it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove it to get a LITTLE bit better flow characteristics into the carb. Emphasis on the little. It would make it just like a tiny funnel. I think there was someone who removed the choke and polished up the intake of the carb and reported good results. How realistic those were I have no idea.
But when it comes to the on and off riders, those who ride every once in a while. I would assume the choke would be a good thing because I remember when I first put together the motor I didn't understand the choke and I beat the heck out of the thing just trying to get it started up. Also when I pulled it out for the first ride after the first winter I forgot to use the choke and spent 5 minutes of straight pedaling to get it started. And that can't be very good for the motor to not be running and just spinning over for that extended amount of time.
I guess all in all if you don't have to use it, don't. If you do, use it.
But when it comes to the on and off riders, those who ride every once in a while. I would assume the choke would be a good thing because I remember when I first put together the motor I didn't understand the choke and I beat the heck out of the thing just trying to get it started up. Also when I pulled it out for the first ride after the first winter I forgot to use the choke and spent 5 minutes of straight pedaling to get it started. And that can't be very good for the motor to not be running and just spinning over for that extended amount of time.
I guess all in all if you don't have to use it, don't. If you do, use it.
I have a standard NT. I find that the choke is invaluable in the weather we're experiencing in the North-East US now (sub-freezing). The choke allows me an easy start to idle, and I can turn it off as soon as the engine starts. Without the choke, I'd be out of breath before she'd turn-over.
I don't ride in the winter. However I ride into late fall when temps drop to 40 degrees. I remove the choke completely on all my bikes and install a bolt in the choke lever pivot hole.
I never have a problem starting any of them and I as a rule have a 66 main jet installed so my motors are not running fat either.
I never have a problem starting any of them and I as a rule have a 66 main jet installed so my motors are not running fat either.
When it was new, mine had such a rich jet that it only needed choke to pull some gas into the cylinder.
After jetting it right, I need it to start, then I let it warm up for about 15 seconds, shut it off and ride away.
I needs muh choke..
If the choke seems unnecessary, you are probably jetted way too rich.
No big deal until you get it broken in some.
After jetting it right, I need it to start, then I let it warm up for about 15 seconds, shut it off and ride away.
I needs muh choke..
If the choke seems unnecessary, you are probably jetted way too rich.
No big deal until you get it broken in some.
Negative. Almost all mine have motors re-jetted with 66 jets.
When you start pedal leave the throttle closed for a few seconds after dropping the clutch. Then open the throttle. When the motor fires engage the clutch and let the motor warm up before laying the wood to it.
Plug chops look good. I even run a NKG B7HS in a couple of the bikes. I also run a VP 94 octane 50 to 1 premix in all of them. Not afraid to twist them either 46 tooth sprockets and we cruise at 26-29 mph.
Any sign of running fat or 4 cycling and I am in there dropping the needle or dropping the jet size.
When you start pedal leave the throttle closed for a few seconds after dropping the clutch. Then open the throttle. When the motor fires engage the clutch and let the motor warm up before laying the wood to it.
Plug chops look good. I even run a NKG B7HS in a couple of the bikes. I also run a VP 94 octane 50 to 1 premix in all of them. Not afraid to twist them either 46 tooth sprockets and we cruise at 26-29 mph.
Any sign of running fat or 4 cycling and I am in there dropping the needle or dropping the jet size.
Funny thing, I finally removed the choke, then the next day, it wouldn't start and I had to put it back on! Found out that tightening it till you can barely move it works just as well as taking it off while still giving you the option of use.
I've installed an ran my new carburetor (Delorto SHA clone) I closed off the fuel adjustment, and the idle stop when I first tried to fire it up (with choke on) failed and turned screws and tried again until it started. it still needs some fiddling but it's idling well now, and starting nicely with the choke. choke needs to be on for a few seconds when starting from cold. re-starting when warm doesn't even need the choke.
compared to the stock carb it's a little harder to start but runs infinitely better. once the weather returns to 'not mars' it should be even better.
can no longer start engine from cold with no choke, and am much happier now.
also, manual choke with cable to handlebars is pretty dang good. (nowhere for my bell now though...)
compared to the stock carb it's a little harder to start but runs infinitely better. once the weather returns to 'not mars' it should be even better.
can no longer start engine from cold with no choke, and am much happier now.
also, manual choke with cable to handlebars is pretty dang good. (nowhere for my bell now though...)
