Chain Waxing

I don't see how parrafin could get in the spaces to lube the rollers inside. Unless you plan to dip the chain in a can of melted parrafin.

You can buy motorcycle chain wax, it sprays on liquid to get in all the right places and then firms up.

i have tried the commercial wax lubes and they are fine in dry conditions as stated on the container. i like the fact that sand and grit does not stick to them. what i do NOT like is how they work in wet conditions. your chain will get rusty ! a few times out this winter on a wet/damp road, possible mixed in residue from rd salt my chain had surface rust.

I've used toilet seal gasket wax with good results on motocross chain, and Alox bullet lube with even better results. Melted in a paint can (bought cheap at the hardware store), dipped chain, soak for a while, then hang to cool and dry. These waxes are softer than paraffin and do collect some dirt. Have another can with varsol, paint thinner, kerosene or a combo of all for cleaning before rewaxing.

I also use Maxima chain wax with good results. Not much weather to worry about here in So Cal.

what benefits does waxing the chain have? I went through two chains and three master links in the past 2 days im not sure if the cold has anything to do with it but its on 54 degrees here in az where i am and they both broke around the 2 mile mark of traveling. For the life of me I can not figure out what is going on. I am running a 66/80 cc engine using a 415 chain.

Probably chinese chain and less than perfect adjustment and alignment. Just a guess.

a chain that is running straight and tensioned well will stretch over time and need replacement - a chain that breaks is fitted wrong

yea i broke a old chain and a new chain twice this week, I have no clue what is going on with it, it is a little colder than normal here in AZ but i wouldn't think that should effect it should it?

Weather should not affect it. Other factors may be the use of a rag joint mounted sprocket, frame flex from a cheap bicycle, light weight wheels and a poorly mounted engine. Also a misaligned tensioner. I'm not attacking your workmanship, just going by my own experiences. Bad riding habits and terrain will also contribute to drive train failures.

There is a major problem if a chain (even a cheap one) only last a few days. I would guess alignment or out of round sprocket.

The spray motorcycle lube from Liquid Wrench I use works good. The cans of Liquid Wrench Penetrating Fluid look quite similar, so I have to keep a keen eye when I grab the right one from my lubricants.

I didn't have any problem with chain breaking or falling off. A few links starting getting stiff. I worked them loose and thought OK. Soon after same thing, I replaced the chain since it was old by about 3 years. It is 35 chain for my pedal less motor bike.

Trail riding and dirt, mud, etc. and lots of torque had taken toll. Still only 1/2 the width of one of the solid pins in the chain was the amount of difference in the length between old and new chain over a 3 foot length. That is a 1/32 of an inch about.

So much smoother running now. I also have a half link (off set link) that has that super small cotter pin. I will check if it comes out or breaks off pieces. When it had stiff links I saw some piece of the cotter pin broken off.

Was searching out a press fit half link, but all I found in 35 size was an all offset link 10 foot length of 35 chain. Mfr gave a distributor name and I called for price and shipping. They said they had to call the company as they did not stock it. They never called back.

May be a bit expensive anyway so not a biggie to not get answer yet. I have to oil the clutch bronze bushing so at the same time I shall see the half link cotter pins shape to be sure everything is OK now.