Anti-Vvvvvibration engine mounts for us?

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glacknoid

glacknoid

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Oct 22, 2008
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robbinsdale MN
That disc brake looks great do you need a certain rim to accept the disc itself? I see how you got the caliper mount on that's genious but I think my stock rim doesnt have a place to bolt the disc. I'm thinking of a drum brake in front as well but that may require a different rim as well because of the larger spokes on the drum brakes.
 
civlized

civlized

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Apr 28, 2009
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Alabama
It does take a special wheel. You have to have the bolt holes for the disc. I bought a mountain bike from walmart for parts. I knew I would need a lot of parts for this build and it would be cheaper to just buy another bike. I had to space out the bracket from the fork using washers to get the correct alignment for the disc. It wasn't near as painful as I thought it would be. Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
I would also like to add that I don't recomend a drum brake for the front unless you are looking at the internal hub brake. I don't have that much experience with the drum brake, but if it looks similar to the brake that is on my back wheel, I would use caution. I would consider it dangerous if this were the only type brake I had. It doesn't seem to work that well. Could be me not adjusting it properly. I don't know yet. I have it adjusted so that the brake engages at the slightest pull. I can really crank down on it and it still doesn't seem to slow me that much. Good luck.
 
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tyrslider

tyrslider

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Sep 26, 2008
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RainCity
For clarification, Civilized, I believe the rear brake you speak of is a "band brake" found on Grubee hubs, scooters, etc. A band brake has friction material that wraps around a drum attached by a lever that squeezes the band around the outside of a drum to stop the wheel and on a drum brake a cam levers shoes outward putting friction to the inside of the drum. Thelatter being way more effective.

Glack, best to run single butted 13/14g spokes on the drums. Light and strong and fit in the eyelets nice and snug.
 
civlized

civlized

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civlized said:
I would also like to add that I don't recomend a drum brake for the front unless you are looking at the internal hub brake. I don't have that much experience with the drum brake, but if it looks similar to the brake that is on my back wheel, I would use caution. I would consider it dangerous if this were the only type brake I had.
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tyrslider said:
For clarification, Civilized, I believe the rear brake you speak of is a "band brake" found on Grubee hubs, scooters, etc. A band brake has friction material that wraps around a drum attached by a lever that squeezes the band around the outside of a drum to stop the wheel and on a drum brake a cam levers shoes outward putting friction to the inside of the drum. Thelatter being way more effective.
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You are correct tyrslider. The brake on my back wheel is typically referred to as a band brake. However, I have seen them called both a band and drum brake which is why I made sure to clarify the difference between an internal hub brake and one that looks like what I have. I can understand some people calling them drum brakes because of what the band wraps around, a drum. I know it's not technically correct, but it happens. Thanks for helping to clarify.
 
happycheapskate

happycheapskate

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Nov 26, 2009
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PocketBikes run 2 stroke engines, with a 4 bolt mounting pattern like that, right? I had one before some AH stole it, and what I could see it was similar to that one in the pictures with the round tube and rubber isolators, but a solid mounting plate. It even had a swingarm suspension, and the chain didn't fall off any, so I don't see whats so shocking about doing it to a grubee kit.
 
civlized

civlized

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I don't understand the negativity either. If everyone always listened to the "pro's" nothing would ever get improved. Electricity, telephones, everything started somewhere and have made tremendous improvements and I'm sure the whole time there was someone over their shoulder saying, "That will never work." There's also pros and cons to everything. I guess it's the difference in how that is measured by people that make it worth it or not.
 
BarelyAWake

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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There's a misunderstanding I think - if you design & build or purchase a custom engine mount made with "soft" mounting in mind (like the pocketbike's are or what you've done here), there's no problem at all. The issue is attempting to isolate an engine made to be hard mounted by just putting something squishy between it and the bike frame.

The grubees (or any inframe 2 stroke) are particularly bad about this as there's only two points of contact and they're relatively low - amplifying both the engine's vibration and the lateral torque from the drive chain. It's not just "negativity" - I've personally tried it and variants thereof & it's simply a recipe for disaster.

The reason we keep going on about this is pretty simple - if the distinctions aren't made (like polyurethane vs rubber, custom mounts vs wrapped inner tube etc.) then those whom may not realize there's a difference may cause damage to their bike and/or themselves... and we're keepin' an eye out for those guys.
 
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civlized

civlized

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Apr 28, 2009
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I can appreciate that, barelyawake. I don't want to keep going on and on about it either, but I guess it would be nice to see some of the respected "in the know" people state more or less what you said rather than just say "forget it." There are ways to achieve what these guys are looking for and always room for improvement and a little knowledge sent their way would be helpful instead of just shooting them down and making them feel like they shouldn't have said anything. We are all here to help not hinder. After all, we are installing "engines" on "bicycles", not motorcycles. I know my bike wasn't designed for that.
 
wayne z

wayne z

Active Member
Dec 5, 2010
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louisiana
Hey Glacknoid,
That's normal for these engines. Most aircraft engines have certain rpms that are avoided because of excessive vibes at that rpm, due to harmonic resonance.
 
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L

locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
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california
with a 4 storke you shoulndt be getting any vibration from the motor very little infact... make sure your chain is lines up wiht your sproket and nothing is loose
 
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locutus_1

New Member
Oct 31, 2010
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california
Black Swamp Ghost said:
After 4 pages,,,,you must be correct!

Thanks for setting us all straight!

dnut
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i have a 4 stroke huasang solidly mounted to my frame and the engine mount no vibration what so ever.. haveing a chan not straight creates stress and vibrations also if your engine is misaligned same thing there are lots of factors.. now what does cause vibration is those 2 stokes.. but to take care of half of it you can add a sbp expansion chamber the vibration from those is mainly the exhaust gases trying to escape causeing your engine to work hard and create those vibrations opening up your exhaust with a better free flow pipe on either 2 stroke or 4 stroke helps drastically also...

you shoulndt need any rubber mounts infact rubber mounts over time break down and shift you want solid contact of your engine to the steel plate use lock tight on all the bolts and nuts
 
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