CNS performance intake???

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nightcruiser

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Mar 25, 2011
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I am looking for a better intake for my motor than the crudely cut and welded intake that came on my Grubee SkyHawk GT-5 66cc. I have the CNS carb, the stock intake requires the spacer for mounting. I am wondering if anyone is selling an intake that is larger so I don't need the spacer and hopefully get a little better air flow? The dimensions of the stock intake are fine (length and bend are perfect), I can't use a straight intake or a longer intake either because the space is tight around the carb and the clutch cable.
I am basically looking for the stock intake shape with a larger tube to match the CNS carb, if anyone has seen such a beast for sale anywhere please let me know...
Thanks
 

otheracco

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Jul 19, 2010
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Minnesota - Near Cities
I second this question. I have the CNS2 carb and the spacer is ineffective at keeping the carb on the manifold. I like my CNS2, but really need an intake manifold that fits the diameter of the carbs clamp.
 

Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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You are looking for what all of us with the cns2 are asking for, my intake didn't match the port at all. I used my die grinder and a barrel rasp to open it up and clean up the inside of the intake. I also made a copper spacer to tighten the carb up.
 

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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Phoenix,AZ
I am basically looking for the stock intake shape with a larger tube to match the CNS carb, if anyone has seen such a beast for sale anywhere please let me know...
Nope, all I have seen is the straight billets and I tried a couple of them. The angle is just too much no matter how much you mess with the float.

I haven't seen the plastic insert being too thin to clamp the carb on securely yet but who knows what outfit makes them these days.
I use a rasp on my drill to clean the crap out of the flange side of the intake and widen it a bit (the exhaust pipe too) on every build.
A wrap or two of electrical tape on the intake pipe where the screw clap part is, then put the sleeve on with the groove pointing down, then the carb with some gasket sealer in the groove where the screw down is should seal it up.

I used to use just plain black gasket sealer but it isn't gas-proof so I have started using this Copper based gasket maker that is gas-proof and the tube is the perfect size for just filling in that little groove on the top of the carb.

You can also fill in that groove in the insert with it if you like, but as long as you point that down and seal the top I don't think much if any air is going to get sucked in through there.
 

nightcruiser

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Mar 25, 2011
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You are looking for what all of us with the cns2 are asking for, my intake didn't match the port at all. I used my die grinder and a barrel rasp to open it up and clean up the inside of the intake. I also made a copper spacer to tighten the carb up.
Actually, I was talking about the size of the tube where it goes into the carb, rather than the port, I can manipulate the port size, but not the tube size. I have seen the stubby aftermarket intake that fits the CNS without the spacer, very nice but the straight stubby design wont work on my bike. I have also seen nice CAST angled intakes, but they have the same size throat (where the carb mounts) as the regular intake.
What I would really like to see is a CAST ANGLED INTAKE that has the proper diameter for the CNS to mount without the spacer. I like the short angled intake (like has been coming on Grubee kits in 2010-2011) but the cut/bent/welded design leaves much to be desired. I suspect metal fragments from these welded intakes have taken out more than a few top ends, let alone what that type of mess does to your air flow leaving the carb. I figure when new fragments of metal from the cut are hanging there, over time the vibration, air flow, heat and some rust lets a fragment loose and bye bye top end. I cleaned mine up inside a bit, but you can't get at both sides very well, no matter how you clean it up it is still a crappy deal....
PS I don't have any problems with the spacer like most people report, my carb mounts solid and doesn't leak. You have to realize the black rubber seal is the seal, not the white spacer. I don't use any sealing compound or anything. When my spacer broke I made a replacement from a PVC water pipe, no problem. The reason I am looking for a better intake is because I want a larger tube leaving the carb, with less interference inside to effect the air flow, and ZERO chance that a metal fragment will come loose and kill my cylinder.....
 

Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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It would be nice if a intake the size of our cns2 were available, I think the added size would help performance alot.
 

young grease monkey

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Sep 20, 2011
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i have one too. i also have a backyard foundry for casting aluminum. i can make custom manifolds by a process called lost foam. basically, you make the shape you want from foam. then burry it in sand and pour molten aluminum on it. the aluminum vaporizes the foam and takes the shape of the cavity. i could make them for y'all if you made a foam piece for me. it would have to be foam board type stuff becasue it gives the best surface finish. maybe send me the foam piece with $10. a few extra foam pieces in case i make a mistake? how does it sound? i will make my own first to show you, and you can decide.
 

Lazy Dog

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Oct 13, 2011
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GREASE MONKEY You have my attention!!! This is very interesting. So you mean to tell me you can cast stuff from anything I can carve out of foam? denser construction type foam I'm summing.
 

nightcruiser

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Mar 25, 2011
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GREASE MONKEY You have my attention!!! This is very interesting. So you mean to tell me you can cast stuff from anything I can carve out of foam? denser construction type foam I'm summing.
That sounds like what he is saying to me...

The thing that troubles me is how to make a round hollow bent foam tube that has the exact shape of a manifold?
 

young grease monkey

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Sep 20, 2011
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Chicago
i can use 3/4 inch copper pipe as a core. it doesn't need to be a perfect casting, i am only asking $10 for the trouble of firing up the furnace and wasted sand because the foam vapors make it gummy. i also must coat the pattern in a special "mud" to prevent the cavity from collapsing after the foam burns out, and it makes a better surface finish. by this technique, the only limit to how good the surface finish is the type of foam you use. i will have the chance to make up my first manifold this weekend. i will be posting results on alloyavenue.com as that is the metalcasting forum i joined. it will detail the way i made the pattern so any of you can make one up and send it to me.