GT1 Build By Blow By U For Customer Pete

GoldenMotor.com

Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
OK here is the latest build by Blow By U its a customers GT1 we assembled the bicycle and the did the 4G T Belt Drive Engine Kits Here are the pics Videos to follow
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SANY0329.jpg Every one take notice that there is no need for a chain idler on a 4G T Belt

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Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
SANY0339.jpg

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So with a little help from my Brother Colin and owner Pete we assembled the GT1 and installed the 4G T Belt Engine Kit in 5 hours. We did not install the 3 piece wide crank and that would have taken another 2 hours for a total of 7 hours for the complete build
 

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New Member
Sep 25, 2009
117
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0
San Diego
Terry,

My brother just got a GT1 for his 4G. We are just setting up the bike, and at first it seamed awesome, but these brakes are trash. Is there some way to adjust this drum brake so it will have some real stopping power. The V-brakes also don't seem all that great. Any tips? It didn't come with a manual either, so i don't want to go screwing all the screws on that drum brake until i get a clue. Thanks
 

Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
Here is a video of the HD axle kit apart it should help and I think you have to shorten the cable so it is engaging and there are several adjusting bolts around the brake as well. Adjust each one until you feel some resistance and the back it off slightly but your cables need to be adjusted just right . And the V brakes need to be adjusted just right as well if not you will not get real stopping power. Clean the brakes and rims with alcohol.

YouTube - Felt Twin BILLY GOAT GREEN Grubee HD Axle Kit
 

wildemere

New Member
Feb 12, 2008
269
0
0
Newcastle
Looks nice, be carefull of the steering gooseneck, it seems set a little high.

And its marginal quality, some GT1 owners have had failures in this area.

For the brakes, the rear is weak when new. It may bed in better, don't over-stress it while its new, but it is not affected by weather, which is good. For the V brakes, just fit good quality dual compound pads from a real bike shop.

Then set them up with a little toe-in to prevent squeal.

I laced up a HD hub and its great, zero runout. The band brake sucked and was discarded.

BTW nice hat.

P.S. A Crank change job from single piece to 3 piece with a new bike is a 30m job. Even less when its just a spindle change.
 

Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
Hey thanks about the hat that is not me that is my customer Pete and the steering heads are now changed out before they reach the customer. And you Get what you pay for the GT1&2 need upgrading that is for sure
 

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New Member
Sep 25, 2009
117
0
0
San Diego
Thanks terry... that video helped a bit.... got the v-brakes dialed.. but the cable on the drum brake snapped.... better luck on that tomorrow i guess..... now i have a new FUN problem.... He actually has the GT2 (typo), and the air cleaner is blocking the hole for the petcock.... I'm thinking that this why I have never seen one of these online then..... I see you sell the combo.... do you have any solutions or have you ever built one? I already flipped the engine mount plate to have the motor further forward, but i need more room, the plate can slide now because the brackets hit the engine bolts... thanks again.... hope this made sense
 

Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
OK so this is why I am going to do a series of videos on how to install the 4G. Here is the problem you are having your engine mounting plate comes from the factory installed back wards keep the frame clamps on the way you have them now and turn the steel engine plate 180 degrees that will move the engine forward and get it way from the seat tube look at the pictures I have done closely and you will see the difference
 

Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
LOL I did not read close enough there is on more thing you can do and that is remove the fuel shut off valve and replace it with a 90 degree brass fitting. That will give the room you need now install fittings on the fuel shutoff valve so you can have the shut off in the middle of the fuel line.
I hope this helps

Terry
 

2dawgs

New Member
Feb 15, 2010
209
0
0
Gilbert, AZ
Terry,

Really like the rear fuel tank on the GT1. Yeah, Grubee should work on the braking setup; a real pain to dial in properly. However, the Wheels, HD Sprocket & Frame are worth the price of the bike alone. As far as the steering stem goes, a inexpensive Sunlite stem cures that problem.

Overall, I still think it's a good value.
 

Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
Hey 2dawgs it is nice to hear some one finally say some thing good about the GT bikes. Aside from the fact that the steering stem is high they are safe like I said the supplier changes them out before they ship them.
 

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New Member
Sep 25, 2009
117
0
0
San Diego
Terry,

I really like the bike.... and can't wait to get one myself because it seems really well built... I'm just having a little trouble getting familiarized with these brakes... I still think i'll lean toward the GT1... but I do have another question regarding the drum brake.... I replaced the cable and tested it out and worked (needed adjusting) but pretty quickly it acted like the brake was on the whole time, the wheel quit spinning.... here is what it looks like



It looks like the sprocket and brake started to spin off.... however I cant get them to spin back on... or at least by hand... I really don't want to brake the wheel... any tips on how to fix this?... On the way to get that brass fitting that you suggested.... GREAT IDEA! Thanks again Terry
 

Terry Blow

Dealer & Custom Builder
Oct 29, 2009
1,117
3
0
Surrey B.C Canada
I think you have the brake just a touch to tight now the way the brake hub works it threads on and when you put the brakes on it will tighten the drum. But if you over tighten the band brake and you spin the wheel back wards the drum will un thread. So your going to have to take the wheel off and re thread the drum back on. Make shure that when you set the brake cable tension that all the adjusters are backed off all the way then set the brake cable tension so it is very close to touching but not. Now that you have cable set you can use the adjusters on the brake lever and the adjuster near the rear brake to get it even closer.
 

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New Member
Sep 25, 2009
117
0
0
San Diego
I've taken the wheel off but i can't thread it back on.... The sprocket and drum will spin together? or should i somehow just try the sprocket? It's just kind of locked into place.... sorry to be a hassle... thanks again