Need Basic Help Mounting Flying Horse onto Huffy Deluxe

GoldenMotor.com

Panama

New Member
Feb 5, 2015
12
0
0
El Giral, Panama
Hi everyone, my name is Steve and I am a noob when it comes to motorized bicycles. I would like some advice mounting a Flying Horse 66/80 cc onto a Huffy Deluxe Beach Cruiser. I know the choice of bike is less than ideal but it is what I could find without spending a fortune because I am currently in rural Panama, where options are limited. I am a field biologist working on a PhD and need a cheap way to get between my housing and my field site, about 6 miles away. The route includes substantial elevation change, hence the desire for a motor.

My questions can probably best be answered by someone who has used this same bike/engine combo. I had some initial concerns that I screwed myself by buying a bike that wouldn't work, but I found a few other mentions of people using the Huffy Deluxe. Here are my questions thus far:

1. Engine mounting: It appears that the frame style (bottom tube diameter and general tube angle) will require me to get additional mounting parts, like the JNM vibration motor mounts. Otherwise, there does not appear to be enough space to fit the engine above the regular chain guard. Any insights or suggestions of a work-around?

2. Coaster break: I put the sprocket on the rear wheel and it doesn't seem to fit snugly around the coaster break base, meaning that the coast break won't clear the inner rim of the sprocket. Have others ditched the coaster brake as well?

3. I figure I need caliper brakes anyway because of the very steep hills I will be going down. Any recommendations on caliper breaks?

4. I had some concerns about the wide tires on this bike, which make it appear that there will a very tight fit for the chain coming and going from the sprocket. Is there enough space for the chain without further modification? Is this just a matter of getting idler/pulley in the right position?

I'm sure I'll come up with a few more questions as I go. Thanks to all for your help!
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
Welcome to the forum. We're glad you've joined us here at the best motorized bicycle forum on the net.

Here is a good old thread on custom engine mounting ideas > http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=6427 You'll find lots of information and examples of what can be done to mount an engine in a non-standard frame.

Here is another link to information on the Huffy Deluxe. Lots of reading for you > http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...19j35#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=huffy deluxe&gsc.page=1

One thing I will suggest is not to use any kind of rubber in your engine mounts. It has been proven many times by experienced builders that resilient mounts DO NOT eliminate vibration but simply transfers it to the engine mounting fasteners which will result in more vibration and fastener/mount failure. Mount the engine as solidly to the bike frame as possible.

Good luck and have fun.

Tom
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
6
38
Central Illinois
The links that 2Door provided covered a lot of ground. I don't think there's anything I can add to that.

But I will add one other piece of advice; keep an eye on that rear hub/coaster brake. The ones that come on those Huffys don't seem to be all that good. I had a Cranbrook (very likely the same hub). I ruined a couple of bearings plus a few of the small brake activation parts in almost no time at all.

What I would advise is that you take apart that coaster brake & hub assembly a few times. And put it back together a few times. So that you'll be familiar with those parts and how they're assembled. Have a decent supply of paper towels or rags on hand. Because you won't dare touch anything else because of the grease on your hands.

Then plan on taking it apart, cleaning it, and re-greasing it often. Perhaps once per season. Definitely also put rim brakes on front and rear. I'd just use something from bicycles that have been thrown in the trash. Use these to take some of the load off of your coaster brake. Use all three and you'll have braking that's good enough.

This will take care of one other problem you have as well. That dust cap that is stopping your drive sprocket from seating properly. Just take it off and forget it. This will allow your sprocket to seat just right.

The danger with this, of course, is that now your hubs internals are a bit exposed to the elements. But if you're cleaning that hub out regularly, then this will end up being a very low priority worry.

You've chosen a good bike for the job. Those Huffys are more tough than many people give them credit for. And those wheels with 12 gauge spokes are just great.

You'll probably want to change that solid front fork for something with shock absorbers. But that can wait for a bit.

Have fun.
 

Panama

New Member
Feb 5, 2015
12
0
0
El Giral, Panama
2door and Bluegoat,

Thanks for the tips and encouragement. Removing the dust cap on the coaster break hub was the answer to my fitting problem and I think will give me a little more space between the sprocket and the frame for the chain to run. One of the links provided by 2door also gave me an idea about engine mounting, which seems to work in principle. I think I still need a trip to a hardware store (or "ferretería" since I'm in Panama!) and a visit to a bike shop to find some rim brakes that will fit with the fenders and wide tires of the bike. I'll give you an update in a couple days when I can get to the city and pick up parts. The confidence to tinker and not be afraid of "not following directions" has definitely come from spending time on the forum. Thanks!
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
5,353
2,575
113
65
Newnan,Georgia
Welcome to the forum, when looking for side pull brakes for a cruiser look for 96mm reach bmx style. The bmx style are a little beefier than road bike brakes.
 

Panama

New Member
Feb 5, 2015
12
0
0
El Giral, Panama
Update: I fudged a way to mount the engine onto the frame which, while ugly, appears to be solid. However, other issues still remain:

1. I think the coaster break does in fact need to be abandoned. Removing the dust cap gave me a little more room for the sprocket, but still not enough to remount the coaster brake without it rubbing on the inner rim of the sprocket. Making the situation worse is that the coaster brake appears to be warped from torque during use. It might barely fit if it wasn't warped, but I can think of a way to flatten it back out because the steel is pretty thick (thus surprising that it warped in the first place). Ultimately, the rear wheel hub just doesn't project far enough out for me to fully seat the sprocket around it. The installation of caliper brakes was happening regardless, but this whole situation leads me to my current major issue...

2. I mentioned in my original post that I was concerned about the wide tires not leaving enough room for the chain. It appears my fears have been realized (see photos). After I took these photos, I removed the rear fender but there is still not enough room for the chain to run. The lower run off the sprocket, past the fork, is barely squeaking past, thanks to the pulley, but giving that enough space causes problems farther up. Where the chain needs to pass by the tire to the engine, the chain is rubbing against the tire, on both top and bottom runs. I'm confused because other people claim to have used a Huffy Deluxe but I have seen no mention of this problem.

So what can I do? Do I need to buy a different rear wheel?
 

Attachments

Trey

$50 Cruiser
Jan 17, 2013
1,432
5
0
Where cattle outnumber people 3 to 1.
Ahh, Ft Davis, School of the Americas... pretty part of the world.

Panama- Welcome! Just a couple of things I can add;
You should be able to get marine grease easily enough, that will do a fine job on your hubs. Here's a link that will give you some info, maybe you can make adjustments after reading http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html I moved things around on the axle to get what I needed. AFTER I knew I could, thanks to Mr Brown;)
I prefer to be able to free wheel my pedals, it feels safer to me while cornering etc, so I don't use coaster breaks. I do use a side pull break in the front, and band break in the rear. Whatever you come up with, you should make this a priority because your'e going to need good braking.
It may also help to cut your rear fender for chain clearance like this motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=57089&page=2 The third pic in post 1. I do this to gas-bikes regularly, and if you take your time and touch up the paint, it'll look factory.

Hope this helps!
Good luck, and keep us informed.
 
Last edited:

Panama

New Member
Feb 5, 2015
12
0
0
El Giral, Panama
For some of my troubles, I started a new thread. I thought I would give the same update here as well:

Victory! I have almost everything installed on the bike now and figured out a solution. After half a day wandering around Panama City, I finally found a decent (and affordable) bike shop. Here's what I did:
1. Replaced the rear tire and tube with a narrower set. I was able to use the original rim, which saved me a lot more hassle.
2. Used a 2x4 to bend the fork wider.
3. Inserted 3 washers on the axle next to the nut inside the dropout. This also gave me the chance to learn the Spanish word for washer, "arandela."

This gave me enough space to run the chain past both the fork and the wheel while keeping it straight. The bike shop also had caliper brakes, so I have those installed front and back.

I have a couple more questions for which I am going to start a new thread, but I'm almost there. Thanks for all your advice!