Pusher Trailer Possibility

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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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I know, I know, I've been quoted as saying that I don't like pusher trailers, but I had this really sweet bike that I broke at the head tube a few years ago & kept for some odd reason. It was a Litespeed Blade 6/4 titanium aero time trial bike. I cutoff the top tube & downtube. Take a look at the few pics I took. I had 2 extra 700c wheels laying around & one of them already has the 'Rim2Rim Lowracer Pulley System'. It has dual rear wheels mounted fairly close together (avoiding needing a jackshaft to center the engine). Each wheel is attached now at only one side of the rear dropouts. I would mount some aluminum 'L' angle bar to the opposite side of each wheel to brace the wheels & create a low engine mount. I have some ideas about how to center mount the engine & run a v-belt to the left wheel. I haven't invested any money or time into the project yet, but its got me thinking...
(The 4th pic isn't where it would be mounted, just needed a place to rest the thing. It would need another section to leave room for the engine between the bikes rear wheel & the trailer axles)
Cheers,
-Lowracer-
*** P.S. I decided against using this piece of bike frame ***
 

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Ibedayank

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Oct 29, 2011
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to mount a wheel from one side you need a 14mm axle or bigger or they bend like a limp noodle


a 700 wheel will not stand up to any side loading as in trailer use
 

lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Ibedayank,
Yeah, I wrote that I would connect the other side with 'L' angle aluminum to support both sides & create an engine mount from there.
-Lowracer-
 
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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Got some more ideas for building this pusher thing.
I WONT BE USING THE TITANIUM BIKE PIECE AT ALL.
Priced out some 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 1/4" angle aluminum today along with some 1 X 1/4" aluminum flat bar. I'm thinking of building a triangulated 3D frame similar to what you see on a Crane, Ducati frame trellis or Moulton bicycle. By using aluminum, it will still be lightweight but very strong. Also going to use one 650c wheel instead of dual 700c wheels.
Will be swivel mounted to the seatpost similar to what I did on the 1st pusher project using a bicycle stem to hold a 100mm wheel hub for the up & down motion. Then a shim on the seatpost for the steerer tube hole w/grease on the seatpost for the side to side motion.
I also checked out some 3/4" & 1" metal conduit today & may use some of that stuff to attach the hitch to the trailer (in a straight line).
I think it would be cool to have a totally seperate motorized unit that is portable & can be attached to any bike in a matter of a minute by removing the seatpost & far right handlebar end mounted brake lever (throttle) mounted backwards using one 5mm allen key...
-Lowracer-
 
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Ibedayank

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Oct 29, 2011
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aluminum work hardens and BREAKS
this is why springs are made out of steel
also why most motor mounts on the venders that are listed to the sides of this site also use steel
 

Dan

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May 25, 2008
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Love it lowracer! Given your talents, I am really looking forward to seeing where this ends up!

Some great advantages to a pusher. Can detach as needed and remain just a bicycle as needed.

For years I have been thinking a ball-joint, trailer hitch would work awesome for what your building. Could bend, twist and turn. Not suggesting, just what I had been thunking.

Post lots of pics!
 

lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
Ibedayank,
Aluminum is fine for this application. I have 9 bikes, 7 are Aluminum, 1 is Steel, & 1 is Titanium. With the amount of power & stress this low powered application will impart, I could use Wood or Bamboo. Actually thought of using Bamboo for part of it.....?

Dan,
I have thought too of using a ball joint, but given the one-wheel approach & an engine not perfectly centered, I want up & down movement & left to right swinging movement around the seatpost, but not twisting (flopping over trailer) movement.

-lowracer-
 
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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
Ok,
I spent some more time thinking this thing thru. Drew up a simple plan using angle aluminum (drilling holes attached w/ nuts & bolts (no welding)). Sticking with my favorite Pocket Bike Cag Stage 2 engines run thru a V-Belt to a 'Lowracer Rim2Rim Wheel Pulley System'. The hitch is also a past idea I employed using a steerer stem mounted to the seatpost via shim (27.2 post/28.6 shim & grease) & a front hub in the 31.8 handlebar mount. This allows the necessary up & down motion & left to right motion. The frame sections of angle aluminum will have a fair bit of cross bracing (not in drawing). I may have enough space to mount an auxiliary fuel tank should the need arise for longer travel distances.
Enjoy the pics,
-Lowracer-
 

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ne2rk

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Jul 31, 2010
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chicago
Check out my push trailers. I made electric ones and have plans on a gas driven one. Its feels like a ghost is pushing you on whatever bicycle you feel like riding that day.
 

ne2rk

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Jul 31, 2010
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http://motorbicycling.com/f36/24volt-electric-push-trailer-21721.html

Very crappy pictures. I have both these tucked away in my garage. 24volt and 12volt elec push trailers. Quiet and fun then DEAD battery's! Gas all the way(my next project). Linkage isn't a problem in my book. and the easyist and cheapist way is too use a kids stand up scooter(gas or electric or even 80's style). pivot point is already there and is what makes them "safe".

Misc info... I own a burley two wheel pull trailer with ball-joint style trailer hitch. My push trailers are one wheel "bobber" style trailers with old mtb rear ends bolted to main bikes droppouts and pivet point from the scooters head-set. very simple task. And you can lean HARD on turns and use the gas to pull you out of turns. Very amazing feeling.
 

SJN

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Feb 9, 2011
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Pinon Hills, CA
I like the nice lightwieghtness of it. Cant say that about my trailer build but I think 8 hp should get it all rolling ok. .trlrl.
 

lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Ok,
I finally settled on mounting the hitch for my new push trailer project to the seatpost instead of the left chainstay. I ordered up the aluminum today & should get the frame started in about a week once the aluminum arrives. I already have the hitch on & it moves well. I almost flip-flopped to a left chainstay mount after watching these two great videos on You Tube by George Fortin called 'Bike Pod'. See both videos here. bike pod - YouTube
bike pod test drive.mov - YouTube
My trailer will look more like this simple drawing here.
-Lowracer-
 

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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Also ordered up a new wheelset for the bike. Getting black Sun Rhyno Lite 27mm rims, black Shimano XT 6 bolt disc hubs w/ black DT 2.0 spokes. Will probably also order up some meaty CST Cyclops 2.4 tires & Maxxis DH thick tubes.
see pics
-Lowracer-
 

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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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One of the reasons I am building this Super-Lightweight Pusher Trailer is its ease of switching from one bike to another & ease of removing it from a bike altogether. Here is a pic of the throttle. It is simply another brake lever mounted backwards onto the right-side handlebar end. This way it can be removed easily with one 5mm allen key & switched to any bike in minutes. Also needed is a small screwdriver to loosen the 2 seatpost hose clamps, opening a quick release to remove the hitch (steerer stem & shim) from the seatpost & a few velcro straps that hold the throttle cable onto the bike & trailer framework.
Once I get this thing built, I'll get it onto a scale for the weigh-in.
-Lowracer-
 

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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
I said I'd never do it since I'm all about Keeping It Simple, but I am planning on installing a jackshaft.
The primary reason is to center the engine on its mount to perfectly balance the one-wheel trailer (secondly to allow some gear ratio tuning). I'll use two v-belt pulleys on a 1/2" stainless steel shaft between two pillow block bearings & 4 shaft collars. I have some pics of a few of the items I ordered this morning.
-Lowracer-
 

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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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I received the wheelset & installed a new set of tires. The Rhyno lites are my favorite rims & super strong. My other MB aka 'The Beast' also has the same rims & they have made it unscathed with me over the years, 1st Mountain biking & now Motorbiking. Since I removed the old rear wheel I figured I'd true it up & mount another rim hoop to it for another v-belt drive option. I may just use this 26" wheel to drive the rear push trailer instead of the 650c setup I was planning on. I like the fatter tire selections. Now I'm just awaiting the aluminum & the jackshaft stuff I ordered to arrive. I took the bike unmotored for a few rides yesterday & today & really like the way it feels. Its a Chromoly dirt jumping frame with a heavy duty headtube/downtube gusset. I'm all about going heavy-duty considering it'll be capable of 50 mph.
-Lowracer-
 

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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
Here are a few shots of the rear 26" MTB 36 spoke drive wheel that will definitely be going on the pusher trailer. I found a throw away MTB wheel @ my local bike store. The hub & spokes were nasty, but all I wanted was the aluminum hoop. The cheap wide aluminum singlewall rims are best for v-belt drive. The belt fits nicely into the spoke bed. I clean up both surfaces that will be bonded together using a hand file & then some rubbing alcohol. I setup some JB Weld & smear it onto both bond surfaces. I get the rims onto eachother nice & even, then wipe away extra glue with a paper towel & rubbing alcohol. Lay it flat overnight & then I like to drill 3 holes thru & pop rivet (or bolt) them together for added security. I also used a tube of Quick Steel to add extra bonding along the inner seam running around the whole wheel. Quick Steel is a putty (similar to JB Weld) but not runny like JB Weld & it sets up quick. I've used it to repair many things from mirror stalks to a leaking crankcase to a muffler leak (awesome stuff). This is the 4th 'Lowracer Rim-2-Rim Pulley' I've built & all have been super durable w/ no failures.
-Lowracer-
 

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lowracer

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Oct 17, 2008
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Charleston, SC
Did some more drawing today to get final design details worked out before the aluminum arrives. It will look more like this picture. By using a jackshaft to center the engine on the frame, I'll also be able to slide the engine further forward & keep the weight under the line that bisects the rear tire patch & the hitch attachment point. From what I've been reading, this should help handling.
-Lowracer-
 

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