I've got a 5 horse B&S engine that I took off of my snowblower that had an auger and chain drive. The end of the crankshaft has a gear about 1-1/2" dia. and 14 teeth. The gear does NOT look like it will remove by any means yet I know they could not have forged the crank with the gear one it. It HAS to come off somehow. Any ideas?
Briggs with gear on shaft
- Thread starter butchl
- Start date
Hi Butchl, carefully clean the hub of the sprocket, it may have a setscrew or two in it. Is the shaft keted? also look for a weld.
Mike
Mike
Most sprockets have set screws. Like SMB says. It may just be badly rusted on, if that is the case the only way to realy get it off is heat and a puller.
First find a hand spray bottel and fill it with cold water then you heat the sprocket with a torch get it good and hot then spray cold water on it until cool. Then try puller if it comes hard turn it over and heat and cool again until it comes off. This does something to break the rust and works good.................Curt
First find a hand spray bottel and fill it with cold water then you heat the sprocket with a torch get it good and hot then spray cold water on it until cool. Then try puller if it comes hard turn it over and heat and cool again until it comes off. This does something to break the rust and works good.................Curt
You may contact Briggs on the phone. I did a couple times and they were helpful. I'd always ask if there is a fee to speak with them first. They at some point could require fee, but I stop at that point.
Max Torque also answered some question I had about a keyway for the crankshaft on an engine and were helpful. In case you own one of their clutches and even if not they might have answers.
A picture might be helpful.
MT
Max Torque also answered some question I had about a keyway for the crankshaft on an engine and were helpful. In case you own one of their clutches and even if not they might have answers.
A picture might be helpful.
MT
Hi Butchl, if you leave that small primary sprocket on, then you would need to use an intermediate sprocket of a pretty good size to get some reduction before the clutch, and you still have to worry about the "ticking speed" of the clutch.
Stock maxtorque works well on the crank, idle between 900 and 1200 rpm. So you'd have not only total reduction to worry about, but getting the ratio for the clutch correct.
I'd still be looking at how that sprocket is attached, maybe run a wire brush on a drill to clean it thoroughly and see what holds it in place?
Mike
Stock maxtorque works well on the crank, idle between 900 and 1200 rpm. So you'd have not only total reduction to worry about, but getting the ratio for the clutch correct.
I'd still be looking at how that sprocket is attached, maybe run a wire brush on a drill to clean it thoroughly and see what holds it in place?
Mike
Do crazy ideas count?
Clamp the engine down to a bench. Well.
Attack the teeth with an angle grinder til they are less than nubs.
Then, start the engine, and begin taking off the rest while it's turning, with the angle grinder nicely handheld against a steady-rest.
If you get to a rust band, that would be a good place to stop.
Don't do this at home kids! It's not safe.
(I've got a motor here that was used with a pressure washer pump. Pumped failed, motor is good. The motor has a hex drive crank end to fit into the pump and I do not think is a bolt-on. So I am seriously considering using this method to make it round.)
Good luck
rc
Clamp the engine down to a bench. Well.
Attack the teeth with an angle grinder til they are less than nubs.
Then, start the engine, and begin taking off the rest while it's turning, with the angle grinder nicely handheld against a steady-rest.
If you get to a rust band, that would be a good place to stop.
Don't do this at home kids! It's not safe.
(I've got a motor here that was used with a pressure washer pump. Pumped failed, motor is good. The motor has a hex drive crank end to fit into the pump and I do not think is a bolt-on. So I am seriously considering using this method to make it round.)
Good luck
rc
Last I heard it was releasing. You might try liquid wrench.
I used liquid wrench on a stuck valve and recaptured the liquid as it dripped over it. A tray I'd tilt with the liquid and reuse it over and over for about a week. Since the valve was going to be replaced I used a vise grips clamped onto the valve and twisted, hammered, pried and finally it was removed.
I've also heard people use diesel and other stuff just like liquid wrench.
When you can get a good picture and show how it was supposed to be attached by manufacturer, that would be interesting to see. It is as good as a Alfred Hitchcock mystery
MT
I used liquid wrench on a stuck valve and recaptured the liquid as it dripped over it. A tray I'd tilt with the liquid and reuse it over and over for about a week. Since the valve was going to be replaced I used a vise grips clamped onto the valve and twisted, hammered, pried and finally it was removed.
I've also heard people use diesel and other stuff just like liquid wrench.
When you can get a good picture and show how it was supposed to be attached by manufacturer, that would be interesting to see. It is as good as a Alfred Hitchcock mystery
MT
A lot of grinding that way but would work, another is cutting it with a hack saw fallow the key way doing that will releve the pressure.can even spread it some with chisel.
Still heat and cold water work the best proppain torch is enough. My son went through small engine school and was thought this.
Acyton and automatic trans fluied mixed 50x50 work better then liquid wrench.
Still heat and cold water work the best proppain torch is enough. My son went through small engine school and was thought this.
Acyton and automatic trans fluied mixed 50x50 work better then liquid wrench.
iffn it was me,but it isnt all i can do is offer what i know.
split the gear with whatever you have handy,as it wasnt born that way.
splitting with a grinder to the keyway is your best bet.
if you whack on the crank,be careful,it will bend easily.
bolt in end of crank,once out gear should slide off with a little persistence.
i have a bearing splitter and a puller i use for stubborn gears.
propane is ok,but doesent heat fast enough for my liking.
heat too long,will camage oil seal.
heat,and cool with water,repeat several times,will usually free it up.icy cold water is preferred.
as mentioned before,a photo would help very much.
.
split the gear with whatever you have handy,as it wasnt born that way.
splitting with a grinder to the keyway is your best bet.
if you whack on the crank,be careful,it will bend easily.
bolt in end of crank,once out gear should slide off with a little persistence.
i have a bearing splitter and a puller i use for stubborn gears.
propane is ok,but doesent heat fast enough for my liking.
heat too long,will camage oil seal.
heat,and cool with water,repeat several times,will usually free it up.icy cold water is preferred.
as mentioned before,a photo would help very much.
.
To remove this set of gears on a small Kohler engine I saw in a Youtube video use a hefty gear puller. The guy also powered the puller with a air powered impact driver. I would note that the puller might be expensive as I think it was a Snapon. It is maybe possible to use a flywheel puller if it would work. I found some at the auto parts store for cheap. There are the two and three gaw types.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3OvBSfT3G8
MT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3OvBSfT3G8
MT
Yep that gear must not been that stuck because it didn't even turn the engine over when he turned the impacked on.
I have seen it were it takes two guys one just to hold the puller. Also you should polish the shaft with emery befor trying to pull it.
You can also get the pullers at farm supply stores. Or you could rent,or lend one. .........Curt
I have seen it were it takes two guys one just to hold the puller. Also you should polish the shaft with emery befor trying to pull it.
You can also get the pullers at farm supply stores. Or you could rent,or lend one. .........Curt
