This all started back when i was reading this: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=36334
So after reading up on that forum, i decided to change out my piston pin bearing (by this time, my bike had a little more than 500 miles). So i bought this bearing:http://www.ebay.com/itm/130572852728...84.m1423.l2649
It turns out that this bearing does not fit in the 48/9s, the bearing was too wide to fit in between the piston pin bosses, so i ground out the bosses a little, and got it to fit with a little bit of free play. But the second problem (big one) was that the bearing did not fit inside the CONNECTING ROD!
So i froze the bearing, and heated the con rod, (with dad's help) and ended up turning it into an oval (the bearing). Now is a good time to mention that the old bearing was only 12mm wide, and the piston pin bosses were 15mm! Along with that, i had (as above mentioned) ground out the bosses a little, so i didn't want to reuse the old bearing, or piston and cylinder. So i got a new cylinder, piston (and rings of course), piston pin, and bearing for the thing. The cylinder looked a little different to the old one, much better casting, and was round, compared to the sharp edged old one. The piston was the same, but the piston pin and rod were much different to the old one. The new rod was actually too long for the piston , But...the new bearing was the same style as the old one, and fit PERFECTLY! 
So i ended up using the old rod, which had started to rust. ;( It should be worth mentioning that i tore the intake gasket a little when i was reassembling the engine. But i tested it for leaks with WD-40, and the idle speed didn't change. So when i got the thing all together, i gasses it up with 24:1 echo gas, and started it. It started very easily compared to the first time i ever ran the engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVIE9D3InUg Even though the first time i started my little ****er i was running 16:1 liquid cooled engine oil.
But when it started, it was running pretty badly, misfiring, wouldn't idle without turning the idle adjuster (throttle screw thingy on top of carb) out ALOT, it was practically falling out. It should be worth mentioning that i turned the engine over for 5-6 seconds without the spark plug cap attached accidentally. I mistook this behavior as break in behavior and rode it for a little bit. After about 40 miles, it was still doing this.
The engine had lost about 30% of it's power, misfired badly, and acted like it was either getting too much fuel, or not a strong enough spark. So i mentioned this problem to my dad, and he said to put the old parts back on and the problem would most likely go away. It's best to listen to the old man's advice isn't it? Right? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvdf5n-zI14 After about 3-4 hours of work spread out over 3 days, and a torn cylinder base gasket (which i patched up with gasket maker), i finally got it back together. And......IT STILL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, WTF! I did keep the new bearing on because i saw no reason to put the old one back on. So i started troubleshooting it, i tried ALL FIVE different mixture clip positions with both the stock plug and a NGK B7HS, but to no avail. So next i figured the ignition system was at fault, and got a new CDI. Im going to let you guess what happened next, i'll even throw in some multiple choice answers to make it easier. Now remember class, no talking and no looking at anyone else's answers.
A. It didn't change anything
B. It didn't change anything and i strapped it to a rocket headed to Chernobyl
C. It didn't change anything and i watched slender to calm down
D. I like cereal
E. ****
F. The throttle stuck on full, and that was just enough to keep the engine idling
G. All of the above
If you answered G....YOU'RE WRONG! I DON'T LIKE CEREAL THAT MUCH! XD
Ok back to being serious-ish. The only thing that changed was that the zip-ties that i normally use to hold my old CDI on didn't go all the way around. So i had to get creative with duct tape and two zip-ties linked together, which is far inferior to the original CDI mount and allows the CDI to move much easier than before. So me and my dad checked the wiring, and i think one or two things weren't what they were supposed to be, but we might have tested it wrong. So i tested the spark, and it seemed okay, it was clearly visible, but probably not running at maximum capacity. The F***er even shocked me! That reminds me of when the kill switch fell off of my 1993 honda z50r, and i got shocked when i reached for it, and instead contacted two wires. Well anyways, i cleaned the carburetor, cleaned the muffler, took the air filter off, and diluted the oil. The only thing that noticeably helped, was the air filter, and that just gave it a little more power. Here is a video of what it is doing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQRlQhsyPdI
So after reading up on that forum, i decided to change out my piston pin bearing (by this time, my bike had a little more than 500 miles). So i bought this bearing:http://www.ebay.com/itm/130572852728...84.m1423.l2649
It turns out that this bearing does not fit in the 48/9s, the bearing was too wide to fit in between the piston pin bosses, so i ground out the bosses a little, and got it to fit with a little bit of free play. But the second problem (big one) was that the bearing did not fit inside the CONNECTING ROD!
So i froze the bearing, and heated the con rod, (with dad's help) and ended up turning it into an oval (the bearing). Now is a good time to mention that the old bearing was only 12mm wide, and the piston pin bosses were 15mm! Along with that, i had (as above mentioned) ground out the bosses a little, so i didn't want to reuse the old bearing, or piston and cylinder. So i got a new cylinder, piston (and rings of course), piston pin, and bearing for the thing. The cylinder looked a little different to the old one, much better casting, and was round, compared to the sharp edged old one. The piston was the same, but the piston pin and rod were much different to the old one. The new rod was actually too long for the piston , But...the new bearing was the same style as the old one, and fit PERFECTLY! So i ended up using the old rod, which had started to rust. ;( It should be worth mentioning that i tore the intake gasket a little when i was reassembling the engine. But i tested it for leaks with WD-40, and the idle speed didn't change. So when i got the thing all together, i gasses it up with 24:1 echo gas, and started it. It started very easily compared to the first time i ever ran the engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVIE9D3InUg Even though the first time i started my little ****er i was running 16:1 liquid cooled engine oil.But when it started, it was running pretty badly, misfiring, wouldn't idle without turning the idle adjuster (throttle screw thingy on top of carb) out ALOT, it was practically falling out. It should be worth mentioning that i turned the engine over for 5-6 seconds without the spark plug cap attached accidentally. I mistook this behavior as break in behavior and rode it for a little bit. After about 40 miles, it was still doing this.
The engine had lost about 30% of it's power, misfired badly, and acted like it was either getting too much fuel, or not a strong enough spark. So i mentioned this problem to my dad, and he said to put the old parts back on and the problem would most likely go away. It's best to listen to the old man's advice isn't it? Right? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvdf5n-zI14 After about 3-4 hours of work spread out over 3 days, and a torn cylinder base gasket (which i patched up with gasket maker), i finally got it back together. And......IT STILL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, WTF!
I did keep the new bearing on because i saw no reason to put the old one back on. So i started troubleshooting it, i tried ALL FIVE different mixture clip positions with both the stock plug and a NGK B7HS, but to no avail. So next i figured the ignition system was at fault, and got a new CDI. Im going to let you guess what happened next, i'll even throw in some multiple choice answers to make it easier. Now remember class, no talking and no looking at anyone else's answers.A. It didn't change anything
B. It didn't change anything and i strapped it to a rocket headed to Chernobyl
C. It didn't change anything and i watched slender to calm down
D. I like cereal
E. ****
F. The throttle stuck on full, and that was just enough to keep the engine idling
G. All of the above
If you answered G....YOU'RE WRONG! I DON'T LIKE CEREAL THAT MUCH! XD
Ok back to being serious-ish. The only thing that changed was that the zip-ties that i normally use to hold my old CDI on didn't go all the way around. So i had to get creative with duct tape and two zip-ties linked together, which is far inferior to the original CDI mount and allows the CDI to move much easier than before. So me and my dad checked the wiring, and i think one or two things weren't what they were supposed to be, but we might have tested it wrong. So i tested the spark, and it seemed okay, it was clearly visible, but probably not running at maximum capacity. The F***er even shocked me! That reminds me of when the kill switch fell off of my 1993 honda z50r, and i got shocked when i reached for it, and instead contacted two wires. Well anyways, i cleaned the carburetor, cleaned the muffler, took the air filter off, and diluted the oil. The only thing that noticeably helped, was the air filter, and that just gave it a little more power. Here is a video of what it is doing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQRlQhsyPdI
