oil leaking
- Thread starter Vince
- Start date
What fuel oil ratio are you running, anything under 24:1 and your more than likely going to have oil dripping out of your exhaust.
also it sounds like you're gasket for your exhaust isnt seated right or you're exhaust is loose
also it sounds like you're gasket for your exhaust isnt seated right or you're exhaust is loose
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yeah i put a new exhaust gasket on but it still doesn't fit real tight, and i use 4oz of oil to 1 gallon of gas witch according to this is 32:1
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/Manuals/Premix Ratio.pdf
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/Manuals/Premix Ratio.pdf
Why doesn't the exhaust flange fit tight? It should, or it will leak. Is the pipe or muffler hitting anywhere and keeping the flange cocked? How thick is the gasket and what is it made of? How tight are you making the nuts? A torque wrench is an invaluable tool to own when working on these engines. Torque on the exhaust flange nuts, or Allen head cap screws if you're using them instead, should be about 60 to 80 inch pounds. After the engine has reached operating temperature a couple of times recheck them using the torque wrench.
I don't use any kind of goop (gasket sealer) on the exhaust. If the flange and the matching port on the cylinder are flush and a good gasket is used there is no need for it.
Tom
I don't use any kind of goop (gasket sealer) on the exhaust. If the flange and the matching port on the cylinder are flush and a good gasket is used there is no need for it.
Tom
the gasget is from slickbike parts as seen here:
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=90&osCsid=dfj9iajdfi59iar42u5o7553h1
and i think my exhaust pip where it fits on the head is bent a little to
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=90&osCsid=dfj9iajdfi59iar42u5o7553h1
and i think my exhaust pip where it fits on the head is bent a little to
Warped and/or bent flanges aren't uncommon. Metal does that when its welded.
Here's a method for checking the flatness of the flange.
Paint the gasket surface with magic marker or machinist dye then run the flange over sandpaper on a flat surface. Glass is the best because its flat. After just a couple of strokes you can check to see where the ink is sanded off (high spots) and where it's still visible (low spots) Keep sanding until all the ink is gone. That will give you a flat gasket surface. This might take some work but the results are worth it. If you're lucky enough to have a bench mounted belt sander the process goes quicker.
The same for the mating surface on the cylinder. You'll want an absolutely flat surface for the gasket or the chances are it will leak.
I suggest this step be done to the exhaust and the intake manifolds before installing them on the engine. The steel intake manifolds and the exhaust are usually warped because of the welding process from the factory. It's up to the builder to make sure the gasket sealing surfaces are flush.
Tom
Here's a method for checking the flatness of the flange.
Paint the gasket surface with magic marker or machinist dye then run the flange over sandpaper on a flat surface. Glass is the best because its flat. After just a couple of strokes you can check to see where the ink is sanded off (high spots) and where it's still visible (low spots) Keep sanding until all the ink is gone. That will give you a flat gasket surface. This might take some work but the results are worth it. If you're lucky enough to have a bench mounted belt sander the process goes quicker.
The same for the mating surface on the cylinder. You'll want an absolutely flat surface for the gasket or the chances are it will leak.
I suggest this step be done to the exhaust and the intake manifolds before installing them on the engine. The steel intake manifolds and the exhaust are usually warped because of the welding process from the factory. It's up to the builder to make sure the gasket sealing surfaces are flush.
Tom
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