Maytag Flyer

GoldenMotor.com

Velodrome

Well-Known Member
May 27, 2011
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Phoenix-ish
Aw comon. I love and used to be from Detroit. You can hit it with a rock and sling shot from Windsor. :) Still; Its kinda rough these days. Milton is nice. Been through it lots of times on my way up to Kapuskasing. I think your really onto what will turnout to be a fantastic bike and engineering statement. Your solution to the belt clearence on the subframe is genius and mad fab skills. My hat would be off ( if I wore em )
 

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
7,445
4,888
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British Columbia Canada
I was born in Windsor. It's a little rough these days as well. Lived all over T.O. Finally escaped the evil empire for the last time in 1979. Never been back. A former wife lives in Brockville.

Really like the planning and the way your bike is being put together. Like everyone else I hope you get to post often as you work on it. You have a world wide audience waiting.

Steve.
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
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I've seen Maytag twins on youtube. I LOVE the way they start up easily and idle EXTREMELY smoothly.

They're also a thing of beauty!
 

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
6,046
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minesota
This is AWESOME can't wait for more, but have lots of time so can wait. I just love the old style builds.........Curt
 

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
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0
Canada
Made some more progress on The Maytag Flyer.



Installed a three piece bottom bracket conversion and a wide crank and pedal set. The pedals will now clear everything nicely.

One problem is the sprocket that comes with the wide conversion kit, it is too skinny and flimsy compared to the original Worksman sprocket]

It is also bigger than I want for this bike, so I decided to cut it off and swap in the Worksman unit, after I rework it to remove the extra material around the drive lug hole. I will also have to machine up a spacer to locate the sprocket for the correct chain alignment and then weld it all together.

It was time to take the frame to my work to fit the front section back on.

As I was going to my work to use some tools I took a pair of leaf springs scrounged from old snowmobile skis from the 1970's and sand blasted them so I could use the leaf springs in the fabrication of the front end. These leaf springs should be light enough for my requirements.



I then took one of the main leaves and rolled its end like used on some early bikes. Here is a comparison pic of the stock and the rolled leaves, I am not certain which one I will use just yet.
 
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Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
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Canada
It was then time to put the frame back together.

I stretched it four inches and rolled the new front drop loop tube and welded it in.


The frame then came home again and installed the rear wheel to sort out the drive belt alignment and drive pulley location.


I must decide on the mounting and configuration of the engine and to do this I must decide if I will retain the stock magneto ignition and fan or go to a total loss system with points and a CDI like Buddfab's build.

I like the stock magneto because it has "Maytag" emblazoned on it.


But it makes for a much wider assembly, I must think on this for a bit.


I also have gotten a few other parts for the build. One is the carb, it is a 15mm BING from a PUCH moped that I think can be made to work well once the stock govenor assembly is removed from the engine crankshaft.


I will post up some pics of the other items as the build progresses.

Paul
 
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motorhedfred

Member
Jul 31, 2009
421
17
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United States
I love the frame. I especially like the way you made clearance for the drive belt...pure genius but I have to ask, why do you need a drop loop ?

MHF
 

LS614

Active Member
Dec 22, 2009
1,236
3
36
CT and MA
this is gonna be neat, I would like to use a maytag someday too. Briggs are cheaper and easier for my skill level. Keep going! :)
 

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
First, Let me ask how many MB's have a drop loop frame without any real requirement for the drop??


On this build there is a requirement.

Because of the size and shape of this engine as it is longer than it is tall and must be mounted up higher in the frame for clearances. This creates a problem with the leather belt drive as the belt routing works only if the drive pulley is mounted down low in the loop. Therfore the engine will have a vertical primary drive to a jackshaft mounted in a housing that mimics the early crankcases mounted in the loop. If my explanation makes sense.
 

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
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Canada
On Ebay I found an old seat that is the style required to give me some comfort. Wide and springy.


It was quite rusty and the covering had rotted off so I disassembled and sandblasted it, then gave it a coat of paint.



Then glued on a layer of closed cell neoprene foam.



Made a pattern of the seat base and transfered it onto some leather.




Stitched two pieces together and cut open the underside panel to slide in the seat pan.
 
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Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
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Canada
Applied some glue, then slid the seat pan into place and stretched the cover tight.



Bolted the inner pan down tight untill the glue set.



Installed the mount and springs, trimmed off the excess leather.

Distressed the leather a bit and sanded the trimmed edges smooth.



I like it.
 
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Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
No I have never done this before, just figured it would work and gave it a go.
Glad you like it, I am very pleased with the outcome.