Throttel snapback

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mynakedrat

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Oct 28, 2013
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milwaukee
Throttle snapback

Whats an easy way to do this? I have to twist it manually to get it to de-throttle.
(which was really bad when i fell over on my first run(bad fog and a car))
Should i stretch the carb fuel line spring?
 
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CTripps

CTripps

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Aug 22, 2011
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That might help, but it will make it a bit trickier putting the carb slide back together. Before you go there, check your throttle cable. Make sure there are no tight curves or loops, they'll cause the cable to bind up inside the sheath which is a cause of the problem you're having.
 
crassius

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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I would avoid stretching that spring. The problem is most likely in the cable and will probably get worse over time. Either the cable is old and beginning to rust, or it is tied down in a way that causes it to bind. Lube the cable well, and make sure it is run with long, smooth curves rather than sharp bends.
 
CTripps

CTripps

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Another thought... also be sure you haven't clamped the cable down too tightly. If it's pinched somewhere the cable will also bind in the sheath.
 
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mynakedrat

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Oct 28, 2013
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milwaukee
ah, it is way too long, so i have it cable tied in four spots. I will loosen and try a different run on it to see if it helps
As for lubing it (hehe) neither end is removable. Can I just pour a little oil into the shaft and let it run donw(hopefully) inside the cable?
Thanksagain
 
CTripps

CTripps

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Aug 22, 2011
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Yeah, the stock throttle cable is usually too long. I've read about doing it, but have yet to try shortening any. I will eventually, and once I have it right no doubt I'll do it to every bike in my garage. Do a search here and you'll find a thread or two on how to do it.
 
2door

2door

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Sep 15, 2008
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It has also been found that overtightening the top cap on the carburetor can sometimes cause the barrel (slide) to bind in the bore. Finger tighten that cap. Don't use pliers or vice grips.
However your problem sounds more like a cable issue. Good advice from the previous posters.

Here's a link to an old tutorial on shortening the throttle cable > http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=9010

Tom
 
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mynakedrat

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Oct 28, 2013
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milwaukee
there is no worry of air leak at the carb cap area? I did have it finger tight, but last night tightened it with a bit o torque with some pliers. there wasnt any change though.
 
2door

2door

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mynakedrat said:
there is no worry of air leak at the carb cap area? I did have it finger tight, but last night tightened it with a bit o torque with some pliers. there wasnt any change though.
Click to expand...
It is a common myth that you can leak air (vacuum) through the cap or where the cable enters. Some will say those need to be sealed. Untrue. Finger tighten the cap and there is no need to apply sealant to the cable exit area or the threads in the cap.

Tom
 
maniac57

maniac57

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Oct 8, 2011
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Make the curves in the cable as gentle as possible. Bending the cable too sharply causes binding and will hang it up.
 
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mynakedrat

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Oct 28, 2013
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milwaukee
Ill snap a pic of the cables. I need to fix the clutch anyway. It wont engage tonight. It was getting tougher for a few days, and now i rode two blocks without it turning over the engine more than a few times. No biggie. The clutch wouldn even DISengage when i first put it together. Ill just move it one or two notches on the flowernut at a time and test.
 
crassius

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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as you'll find in several places on the board, adjust the cable first, then lock the hand lever and adjust flower nut till small gear just barely tries to turn when you roll the bike, then back it off one notch so it no longer tries to turn
 
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mynakedrat

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Oct 28, 2013
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milwaukee
I kinda did it the opposite. I tightened it until it wouldnt roll. Now it starts fast.! and after adjusting the cable, i dont have to squeeze the clutch so hard to freewheel.
 
crassius

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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One usually has no need to squeeze clutch hard, or at all to freewheel; as that is what a properly adjusted lock position of the clutch lever is for : )
 
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