I've started to mount and setup my new 66cc engine kit. I ran into a problem when I started putting the chain on. The chain coming from my rear wheel sprocket to the engine is hitting the bike frame on the lower fork. I know I have seen a thread around here somewhere about bending the frame to avoid this problem. I have been looking for it and cannot find it. Does anyone know what thread I am talking about? Or does anyone have any advice on this matter? Basically the frame of my bike is preventing the chain from running in a straight line back to the engine because the sprocket it very close to the frame. I am afraid bending the frame to allow the chain to pass will cause other problems with the way the wheel will sit and attach to the bike. Any help would be much appreciated.
Rear part of frame interference
- Thread starter Youngster8
- Start date
It appears you are having the same issue, I am having. It appears some of the newer mountain bikes are being designed not to be able to have an engine on them. Adding washers may help on your bike but not mine. It appears I may have to grind a bit of the frame then reinforce it on the outer side of the frame. When done I should have front disc brakes and rubber back brakes. As I took the back disc brake off the back wheel and redrilled and bolted the sprocket to the disc holder. The shaping of the back frame is not at the same angle as most of the older bike frames are. The housing to hold the back tire with a disc brake on the bike is differant; but, I lucked out that the back frame still has the older style mounts for hard rubber brakes. If you are able to use the washer idea you may have to put them evenly on each side of wheel. Just my thought, good luck.
just posted this, it might help:
http://motorbicycling.com/f3/how-spreading-your-frame-clearance-27344.html#post257260
http://motorbicycling.com/f3/how-spreading-your-frame-clearance-27344.html#post257260
when you mean lower fork of the frame im guessin you meant the chain stay.i had the same problem because i wanted to forgo the chain guide/tensioner for a cleaner look. i ran it like that for a while, the chain was barely hitting the frame. best thing - use the chain guide it keeps it from hitting the frame, and yes some times bending the frame might change the geometry of the rear dropouts causing alignment problems. i compromised and got rid of the mount and mounted the guide wheel to the chain stay(need to get crafty at this point), still looks clean and no frame interference. also remember you may need to cut your chain accordingly- measure twice even thrice and cut once.
or get a good chain breaker. then you don't have to "cut" the chain, you just take it apart and put it back together.
i've said it before, cut-off wheels aren't very good at putting your chain back together...
Im going to attempt tonight some spacers and the use of the chain guider... i think i can get it to work without bending the frame or removing one of the rubber pieces sandwiching the spokes for the sprocket. Thanks for the input and advise from everyone
This happened to me before. What I did was add a washer and place the tensioner close to the sprocket.
Yep, like jeco said thats what i ended up doing. Had to add several washers, about 4 of them and placed the chain guide close to rear sprocket. Got the clearance i needed and went for my maiden voyage today. Awsome feeling to get the thing finally moving. Need a few adjustments to run smoother but all in all im happy. Thanks for the help everyone, this site and its members rock.
