Aqua International BikeBug friction drive wheel??

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Oldpale

New Member
Apr 18, 2010
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Florrida
All of the rubber is dry rotted and falling off the aluminum drive wheel. Ever here of anyone using just the drive wheel without the rubber on it? I think it will work just may wear the tire more. I read somewhere about using a skateboard wheel?? Anyone know about that and would I need to modify the wheel in any way?? Just got the engine to start for the first time but only stays running on full choke. Any advice on these issues? Thank you
 

Oldpale

New Member
Apr 18, 2010
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Florrida
I backed out the needle valve 1 turn and now it will start and idle fine with the choke off. It is responding very well to the throttle as far as revving. However, it will only stay running if I keep pushing the fuel primer bulb every 15 seconds. This makes me think the fuel pump needs to be rebuilt. Tanaka has discontinued the replacement parts for the fuel pump on the QBM23 engine. Does anyone know where to find a kit???? Other than the guy from Texas who forces you to buy his literature before selling you parts, what a load of BS!!
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
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You can with a little care make your own re-build kit. Also, there is a check valve that gets stuck from crud ect. check that. The felt tipped filter inside the tank at the end of the fuel line gets clogged very easily and will cause those symptoms as well. Check or replace it.

You can use a skateboard wheel as a replacement, just pull off the old drive roller, measure it and get a wheel of slightly larger diameter. Don't use the bearings of course.
 

Oldpale

New Member
Apr 18, 2010
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Florrida
Thanks Bikeguy

I have already replaced the felt filter with one of the weighted weed eater filters. The original primer bulb assembly had turned hard and was cracked so I replaced it with an in-line primer bulb. Can you tell me more about the check valve, where is it located? What material can be used to make the rebuild parts for the fuel pump? Thanks again.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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Mike Snyder is a member of the forum and could help you with parts. He deals in old bikebug motors like yours. Tanaka of America does carry some parts... seems to me that they have carb rebuild stuff, but it has been a few years since I looked in to it and ordered parts. I might have the parts you need, but won't have access to them until I return to Minnesota in mid May. Yes, you can make a replacement wheel with a skateboard wheel using the aluminum core and pressing the bored out skateboard wheel onto the core. Don't ever throw one of those cores away and guard the retaining nut with your life as it is left had thread if I remember right. I made my wheels by casting them out of epoxy (JB Weld purchased in large size worked the absolute best) I think it was a frozen juice can I used for the form, with first just a small amount in the bottom of the can to hold the aluminum core in perfect alignment. Once set up I filled the rest to the level of the top of the aluminum core. Once hardened the juice can cardboard was peeled away. I recall also using bird seed containers of plastic which were a little bigger diameter. I liked these better than the skateboard wheels. One clear advantage was in making specialty drive wheels with sand embedded in the epoxy. They did wear down tires more quickly, but gripped even in wet conditions. Originally you could buy either the plain rubber replacement wheel for normal conditions or one with grit embedded in the rubber for wet conditions. I found the JB Weld wheels last forever. Just the aluminum core as a drive wheel doesn't work. These are fun little motors, a little fussy and underpowered, but cool. I had thoughts to change the tank to one mounted higher up so that it would gravity feed, but never did it. The stock gas tanks are kind of small. If you google Bikebug you can find a story about Mike and the Tanaka motors. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
SB