Heh, funny you should post this thread at this time. Just had a problem with a used engine I picked up. Clutch was slipping, tightened up the flower nut as tight as I could but the clutch would still slip. Read a post on this forum somewhere about adjusting the primary clutch spring through the stanchion post.I have a question about HT clutch. What is the relationship between adjusting the collar under the stanchion hole and tightening the flower nut? Do they both effect clutch pad tension the same or unrelated?
Heh, funny you should post this thread at this time. Just had a problem with a used engine I picked up. Clutch was slipping, tightened up the flower nut as tight as I could but the clutch would still slip. Read a post on this forum somewhere about adjusting the primary clutch spring through the stanchion post.
People were having problems with their clutch lever being so tight that they were breaking cables and such. Thought hey, maybe it works in reverse too. So I tightened the primary spring today. Will see tomorrow if the clutch still slips.
So, from what I've gleaned so far, the flower nut will just adjust the throw of your clutch lever on the case (loosen and the lever will be further from the stanchion, tighten and the lever will be closer). Adjusting the primary spring from the stanchion post will change how much pressure your clutch plate will have on the clutch pads.
Yes, I saved those and all Jims drawings some time ago. True works of art.X,
Take a look at this. It might answer your questions. http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animated-view-ht-clutch-assembly-countershaft-8939.html
Tom
Pulling in and locking the clutch does not seem to work out. If I'm not mistaken the clutch cable must be removed in order to take out the stanchion. Locking clutch is a step for adjusting flower nut.pull in and lock the clutch, remove your carb with the manifold on it, remove your clutch cable holder from its place (STANCHION IF THATS WHAT ITS CALLED)
Pulling in and locking the clutch does not seem to work out. If I'm not mistaken the clutch cable must be removed in order to take out the stanchion. Locking clutch is a step for adjusting flower nut.
So it appears the flower nut has nothing to do with getting the clutch to "bite" more?
Maybe you didn't tighten it enough. Is the lever VERY hard to pull now?OK, results are in. Tightening the primary clutch spring through the hole in the case was a definite help. Still slipped a bit but the engine started and I drove around just fine. Hoping new clutch pads will eliminate the slip all together.
Maybe you didn't tighten it enough. Is the lever VERY hard to pull now?
I guess it's time for me to give it a try too.
Thanks. I've swapped out a half dozen of these clutch assemblies but never took one apart or even looked closely at one. Mine's slipping big time now. What's involved with changing the pads? Do I have to worry about 300 balls rolling out onto the floor?I actually tightened it as far as it wanted to go without feeling like I was gonna screw up the teeth on the chain sprocket. Lever wasn't really much harder to pull where I have it. Clutch pads were full of oil too when I got it. Guess the guy tried lubing the ball bearings in there. Also found the shaft key for the crankshaft pinion gear inside the clutch...don't ya hate it when parts disappear from your workbench!
Getting new clutch pads today.
Once you remove the flower nut and pull off the outter clutch plate, the pads are right there and they just pull out. Nothing fancy about it other than you might need a screwdriver or needlenose pliers to pry or grab hold of them. They're only about 3/8 in. thick and come out real easy (well most of them will).Thanks. I've swapped out a half dozen of these clutch assemblies but never took one apart or even looked closely at one. Mine's slipping big time now. What's involved with changing the pads? Do I have to worry about 300 balls rolling out onto the floor?
Kinda sorta. You still have to have it dialed in, but if the range isn't correct, you'll need a new approach. What I recommend, BEFORE pulling the stanchion, is pull all the clutch pads and:So it appears the flower nut has nothing to do with getting the clutch to "bite" more?