ive used vice grips to take out old studs, i personally dont want use them i have had several break on just my first motor alone, and after having to extract the excess stud still in the motor, i started using vice grips on the smooth part locking it tight it hasnt slipped for taking them off. personally i prefer to use a straight bolt, a u bolt, or a hex key bolt. (hex key is the real term for allen wrenchs). just had to add my 2 cents, which is probably worth a lot less than that bu t i tried
Need help in changing out the mounting studs.
- Thread starter Ursus
- Start date
My buddies here locally use the Allens I kinda prefer them, now. I think they look neater. I used the stock studs forever.
Here's what I've done to two builds- and I personally would prefer it to any adapter even if it were an option-
Grind or file down the mount casting on the motor, roundish, until it fits over the larger frame tube-the grinding of the enlarged engine mount just starts getting over the motor stud drillings- which are 1/8" more narrow than the frame down tube- that means you have 1/16" inch on each side to get past the frame- Don't worry, this works! The motor steel is actually alloy and files away fairly easy- maybe 20 minutes of time with a hand file- faster with drill grinder.
Then get longer studs- the first time I found longer bolts at an auto store and cut the heads off to have studs that were a half inch longer than the original- But the second build I got smart-
order two BACK engine mount studs- they are longer to go through the additional frame coupler- and the perfect length for this front mount method. About 3 dollars each- try Bikeberry.
After grinding the motor wider, put in the longer studs- then, using the flat of a large crescent wrench, VERY CAREFULLY bend the studs, about 1/4" at the bottom to clear the frame, being careful not to break them.
Place the motor on the frame and press it down into place- the studs will scratch the frame slightly to clear- I touch up the scratch with paint and clearcoat to prevent rust
the motor case where the threads are doesn't reach the midpoint of the frame tube, so clearance isn't as bad as you might think.
Once the motor is snug on the frame, take the crescent wrench and very gently bend the studs back at the bottom to fit the bottom steel clamp. It helps sometimes to pound the clamp a little flatter with a hammer if necessary, to separate the holes further.
anyway, the studs then actually slightly wrap around the frame- I use pipe insulator type material at the motor and clamp for vibration- and it's really a secure mount-
the studs CAN'T back out because they wrap around the frame and can't turn otherwise. It seems a little starnge bending the studs but it works great. The studs have to be about a half inch longer at least though.
Grind or file down the mount casting on the motor, roundish, until it fits over the larger frame tube-the grinding of the enlarged engine mount just starts getting over the motor stud drillings- which are 1/8" more narrow than the frame down tube- that means you have 1/16" inch on each side to get past the frame- Don't worry, this works! The motor steel is actually alloy and files away fairly easy- maybe 20 minutes of time with a hand file- faster with drill grinder.
Then get longer studs- the first time I found longer bolts at an auto store and cut the heads off to have studs that were a half inch longer than the original- But the second build I got smart-
order two BACK engine mount studs- they are longer to go through the additional frame coupler- and the perfect length for this front mount method. About 3 dollars each- try Bikeberry.
After grinding the motor wider, put in the longer studs- then, using the flat of a large crescent wrench, VERY CAREFULLY bend the studs, about 1/4" at the bottom to clear the frame, being careful not to break them.
Place the motor on the frame and press it down into place- the studs will scratch the frame slightly to clear- I touch up the scratch with paint and clearcoat to prevent rust
the motor case where the threads are doesn't reach the midpoint of the frame tube, so clearance isn't as bad as you might think.
Once the motor is snug on the frame, take the crescent wrench and very gently bend the studs back at the bottom to fit the bottom steel clamp. It helps sometimes to pound the clamp a little flatter with a hammer if necessary, to separate the holes further.
anyway, the studs then actually slightly wrap around the frame- I use pipe insulator type material at the motor and clamp for vibration- and it's really a secure mount-
the studs CAN'T back out because they wrap around the frame and can't turn otherwise. It seems a little starnge bending the studs but it works great. The studs have to be about a half inch longer at least though.
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So apparently I over tighted my rear mount on my bike and one of the mounting bolts sheared off at the motor. I'd like to upgrade to allen bolts as suggested. Any ideas on getting this old stud out?
I work in and for a property maintenance facility so we have lots of tools
and I'm definetely a DIY guy.
I work in and for a property maintenance facility so we have lots of tools
and I'm definetely a DIY guy.
Crage,
Get a screw removal/Easyout kit. Thats what there for, and its easy to do.
H-Frieght has them for cheap.
Get a screw removal/Easyout kit. Thats what there for, and its easy to do.
H-Frieght has them for cheap.
