Old Guys Simplex moto-peddle bike

Engine stand is a great idea Rick. Could have done with something like that when I was figuring out how best to mount my build No. 3's Gnome et Rhone motor in the frame. Lost count of the times I had that engine in and out of the frame single-handedly while I measured-up for motor mounts prior to having them water jet profiled. My G et R engine weighed a lot less than your Twin - so your engine stand will save you a bunch of un-necessary lifting in and out. (Incidentally, watched an American Pickers episode recently where Mike scored a shop display V-twin motor installed in a mount fabbed from what looked like half a wheel rim).

If I may presume to make a suggestion, assuming you haven't given thought to such detail already; a nice finishing flourish to make your engine's crank casings look like castings would be to include 'cast-on' company lettering as per prototype (see the scale model Anzani engine a few postings back, for example). I used Slaters Plasticard styrene letters on my Indian Tribute build's output sprocket cover with success - pic below. The individual letters were superglued to the cover then over-sprayed and have been capable of withstanding any small amount of heat generated on a gas motor - so you should have no problems if you want to add some 'Harley' lettering to your leccy motor's crank casing. Happy to source Slaters lettering on your behalf if you can't obtain it in the US.

Carry on...

This company is making replica "Bleriot" Anzani engines for aircraft-
http://pioneeraviator.com/2017/10/30/anzani-3-cylinder-engine/
Might be fun to put one back in a bike!

Anzani-
Bike, plane, bike and somewhere in-between. Full circle...

Here in the UK, the rant against cyclists disobeying the law and riding on pavements rages on.
Imagine the carnage that Anzani bike would cause...!

I'm pretty sure a translation of the French caption to that photo reads....

"...Our intrepid photographer was on hand to capture this image showing a red faced Mr Archdeacon and his son on their way to the infirmary to help extricate Archdeacon Jnr from his prototype Anzani Self Gratification Velocipede..."

Hi Guys,
Rick had contacted me recently and asked if I could build a frame for his electric bike project that was a bit different than my normal Flyer frames. His electric v-twin case needed 2" additional head space. Figured I could knock out a custom frame and have wanted to deepen my loop as an R&D project anyway, so why make just one when you can make two?
The frame will be lugged construction at most of the major joints similar to vintage frames. I will be using Worksman lugs at the steer tube, seat post tube connection and at the bottom bracket. I then fabricate the dropouts with lug connections as well so all the main frame tubes can then be brazed together. I could notch all the various tubes and tig weld them together but prefer the lug and braze process for its vintage accuracy.

Here are the fabricated rear drops. The lower holes can be used for a rear stand. The upper holes are for a fender or rack. The small tabs are for axle adjusters and of course the lug sockets that will be brazed to the 3/4" frame stay and chain stay tubes. They may look a bit rough on the welding table but clean up real nice.

Frame Construction by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

Since the down tube would be different than standard I drew up the new design in CAD, checked the fit to my frame drawing, and printed the tube drawings full scale to use as a gauge during the bending process. If the formed tube matches my drawing then it should fit the frame once in the jig. Here are the formed down tubes, I made three, and the frame stay tubes being matched to my drawings. I constantly add notes to my drawings and update my masters. Nothing worse than trying to remember how to bend the same tubes in a month or two.

Frame Construction by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

Here are the finished frame stay and chain stay tubes checked against the drawing and each other. The lower chain stay tubes are always a challenge as the two back to back bends need to be as close as possible to each other and tax the limits on my tube bender. Also, when bending tubes with more than one bend you have to be careful to keep the bends parallel.

Frame Construction by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

Progress! Two rear triangles fresh out of the frame jig and still warm to the touch. Usually I fab up all the rear triangles first and pop them out of the jig to do the finish welding on my bench as its just easier to flip the smaller pieces around to weld. These will now be tig welded at the seat post connection and get an added gusset. I will say I have built a lot of frames over the years and the rear triangles are always a challenge. And compared to forks, these are easy! These will go back into the jig to get the front sections added. I know, my shop is cluttered with parts everywhere. I see a couple flat side tanks in the backround needing to be ground and sanded and some of my lighter duty springer forks. These forks do not get all the fancy lugs like my heavier ones but are still pretty strong, and of course heavy. I see some Harley style bars laying there, too. Been a busy week.

Frame Construction by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

Since I mentioned lug pieces, and as long as Rick doesn't mind, I thought I would post a couple non frame related lug pieces I make for forks. All are made from laser cut parts that are tig welded together to form the lugs. These will of course get brazed to the fork tube legs. These take a lot of time to produce.

Lug Pieces by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

Lug Pieces by Pat Dolan, on Flickr

Ha, Pat...if my welds looked that good I wouldn't even bother cleaning them up!

Thanks for the heads-up Rick. Got to get me one of those carbs. Just need to check the size of my bike's overhead underhang before I order one. Particularly impressed with this carb's positive negativity recirculating capacitizer.

(Just watched 1954's Devil Girl From Mars on Saturday and became fluent in tech stuff gibberish!)