My pedal hits the muffler...just barely. I've read some post on bending the exhaust. I don't have heat or a vice...drat!! I am going to try sanding the gasket on a taper. Hows that sound?
Pedal hits muffler
- Thread starter sofasurferlinux
- Start date
Not good. You'll probably end up with an exhaust leak, and that's not good either. If you don't have access to a vice you might try bolting the muffler flange to a heavy, immovable object and try bending it that way. Heat is not necessary. The pipe is pretty tough but it will bend if enough force is applied. Go slow and do just a little at a time. The best way is to use a solidly mounted bench vise. Maybe a neighbor or friend has one you could borrow? Good luck.
Tom
Tom
If it is just barely hitting, you may be able to give the mounting holes about another 1/32" clearance. Then you can turn the muffler a little bit, might be enough.
John
John
I know a few guys that have bent the crank arm out just a little bit too. Just take the pedal off and put a long peice of pipe over the crank arm a give an ever so gentle tweak........
Tom, I would call it a sloppy fit. I think in the military they used to refer to it as a "Tijuana Fit"John,
Is that what they call, "Wollerin' out the holes" ?
Tom
John
I like the way you said that "Ever so gentle" Funny, I say that all the time. It's also like saying "Splitting a Frog Hair" When you are working with some close tollerances.
John
While I have all of you peoples attention let me ask one more question.
My chain tensioner turns freely with my fingers. But the chain does not cause the tensioner wheel to turn. I assume that is because of the tensioner wheel being a hard, glossy smooth surface and the chain likewise. Thus, eventially the tensioner wheel will wear flat and then NEVER turn.
Is this a problem?
My chain tensioner turns freely with my fingers. But the chain does not cause the tensioner wheel to turn. I assume that is because of the tensioner wheel being a hard, glossy smooth surface and the chain likewise. Thus, eventially the tensioner wheel will wear flat and then NEVER turn.
Is this a problem?
Sofa,
You want to check, then double check your chain and tensioner wheel alignment. It should be near perfect, or as John would say, "Closer than a frog's hair". Most of the kit supplied tensioner wheel brackets require a slight twist, (there's another need for a vice) to get it to align with the chain path. The bike's chainstay, the part of the frame it mounts to usually is not exactly parallel to the chain so 'tweaking' the bracket becomes essential. Do you like how we toss around those highly technical machinest terms here?
Tom
You want to check, then double check your chain and tensioner wheel alignment. It should be near perfect, or as John would say, "Closer than a frog's hair". Most of the kit supplied tensioner wheel brackets require a slight twist, (there's another need for a vice) to get it to align with the chain path. The bike's chainstay, the part of the frame it mounts to usually is not exactly parallel to the chain so 'tweaking' the bracket becomes essential. Do you like how we toss around those highly technical machinest terms here?
Tom
And one more question...pretty good instructions but not quite clear enough for the 1st timer.
Instructions say kill switch wires are 1 long and 1 short. Connect short wire to handlebar by clamping under throttle clamp. Long wire to wire from motor.
Heres the question...see picture. There are not to seperate wires. They are in a 3 ft cable. Should I just clamp 1 wire to the frame down by the motor. Don't wanna remove sheathing cause the wires inside are small and easily breakable.
Instructions say kill switch wires are 1 long and 1 short. Connect short wire to handlebar by clamping under throttle clamp. Long wire to wire from motor.
Heres the question...see picture. There are not to seperate wires. They are in a 3 ft cable. Should I just clamp 1 wire to the frame down by the motor. Don't wanna remove sheathing cause the wires inside are small and easily breakable.
Sofa,
This comes up many times and there are two schools of thought on wiring the kill switch. I'll attach a wiring diagram that many of us use and it works just fine. As long as your engine is not electrically isolated from the bike frame, ie, rubber between the mounts, etc. you can use the method your instructions suggested. The kill switch is a simple normally open contact that connects the two wires from it together when you push the button. The black wire from your engine is a ground wire, connected directly to the engine block inside the magneto cover. Touching that black wire to either the blue or the white will stop your motor by grounding the ignition. I hope I made this understandable. Maybe this diagram will help.
Tom
This comes up many times and there are two schools of thought on wiring the kill switch. I'll attach a wiring diagram that many of us use and it works just fine. As long as your engine is not electrically isolated from the bike frame, ie, rubber between the mounts, etc. you can use the method your instructions suggested. The kill switch is a simple normally open contact that connects the two wires from it together when you push the button. The black wire from your engine is a ground wire, connected directly to the engine block inside the magneto cover. Touching that black wire to either the blue or the white will stop your motor by grounding the ignition. I hope I made this understandable. Maybe this diagram will help.
Tom
Attachments
Yes you made it understandable. We'll be happy to keep you around 
I'm almost done...o boy. Getting nervous.
I'm almost done...o boy. Getting nervous.
Thanks for the help with the kill switch. I've been looking for a post to answer this question all day. When I call the guy I bought my motors from he makes me feel like an idiot for asking questions about motors and carbs. I keep telling him, I'm not a motorhead, I would just like to make a motor bike and I have some brief questions.
Back to the pipe bend, what if you dented the pipe a littel so the pedal will clear, any after effects
Is anyone famialiar with a platform mount for a 2 cycle. I've seen them for 4-cycles, but cannot find one for a 2-cycle.
Depends on how much you 'dent' it. You do not want to add any restriction to the exhaust flow. A small dent is one think. I kink is something else. If you're talking about denting in the pipe by less than 1/4" for a very short distance you'll be fine. Just don't smash the thing flat in a vice and expect the engine to run right. Don't laugh, I've seen it done.
Tom
