So im almost done, i have the engine mounted successfully over the rear wheel, and ive disabled the rear suspension to alleviate any issues with the chain, and ive welded a 36 tooth sprocket onto the rear wheel from another bicycle. I know i need a 40 or 41 ansi chain for the rear sprocket to fit, but i need a clutch. Ive seen the 40 pitch centrifugal clutches and want to use one, but i dont know which one to get (Im using a 196cc HF greyhound if thats relevent). I need one that can handle the load with that gear ratio without melting, any suggestions or recommendations for a good and relatively cheap clutch, or should i just modify the design altogether.
Suggestions for my jurry rigged mountain/dirt bike project
- Thread starter GrapeSoda
- Start date
I don't think you're going to have a good time trying to go straight from the engine to a 40 or 41 tooth sprocket. You'll need some more gear reduction before it can become usable.
I hear good things about the max torque clutches. I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in on that. You'll need a 3/4" bore clutch for that engine.
And please, post pictures!
I hear good things about the max torque clutches. I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in on that. You'll need a 3/4" bore clutch for that engine.
And please, post pictures!
Ive heard of people using this gear ratio before without reduction (from what i understood) but ive also heard of the clutches burning up from the heat, the engine itself (6.5 hp and 196cc, quite a bit larger than the 50-80cc kit engines) is a powerhouse and im not worried about it, yet. But i dont wanna be going 60+ mph and the clutch seize up.
A 10:1 ratio would work pretty well. That means on a 36t drive sprocket, you need a 3 or 4t clutch gear.
Try a jackshaft with some more reduction!
A good combination is 13t clutch, 22t jackshaft input, 9t output, and 48t wheel sprocket.
The formula is driven/drive x driven/drive
Try a jackshaft with some more reduction!
A good combination is 13t clutch, 22t jackshaft input, 9t output, and 48t wheel sprocket.
The formula is driven/drive x driven/drive
hahahaha...
Try doing a school that packs 4 years of college in 12 months, and forbids you from doing any homework outside of class (because it's classified information). And if you don't do so hot on exams (3.2 out of 4.0 scale) then you get put on mandatory extra study hours, which are (you guessed it) also at the school because you can't study outside the building. Failure can result in punishment (monetary or physical). The military makes school suck, especially when it's about nuclear energy.
Could i get around gear reduction (since it would require me modifying the current build significantly) by using a hand clutch with a single gear. Also just for my personal knowledge, is gear reduction to solve a HP issue or a clutch longevity/functionality issue?
Well, both. It's like having your car in 3rd gear all the time. Would the clutch last long? No. Would it have enough torque for takeoff? Nope
So i finished it. Somewhat. Ive still gotta grind some edges down and paint it. Otherwise it runs great. I ended up having to run the chain straight from the clutch to the wheel since the jackshaft didnt line up past the frame. It burnt up the clutch but it runs berter with the ruined clutch ironically. Even though it pulls a little at idle, i can hold it still easily and the clutch engages at a lower rpm and locks in better. I would post pics if my phone camera hadnt broken. Ill try to borrow somebody elses phone and upload some tomorrow if i can. Jext time im definitely using a torque converter though and i would like to do a stingray chopper build. It was a nice and cheap learning experience at the least and man does it run fast.
Prolly a little high on the gear ratio if its fast and burns the clutch.Glad you got it going and working.
One can run the clutch on the jack shaft,that way the engine will run faster with gearing and not engage so soon. And also you can get different springs so the clutch will rev higher before engagement. ..................Curt
One can run the clutch on the jack shaft,that way the engine will run faster with gearing and not engage so soon. And also you can get different springs so the clutch will rev higher before engagement. ..................Curt
You misunderstand, i like that it engages soon, it lets me use that low rpm power to move the bike
