Problems with engine stalling out.

I was wondering if I could get some help/advice to get my bike to stay running. I have the flying horse motor from bikeberry on my bike and only had the motor for about 3 months. It has the runtong performance racing carburetor on it. it was running fine around town. Then after about a month-month and a half I rode it out to my dad's which is a 19 mile trip. afterwards the bike ran fine for a couple days and then it died on me while I was riding it. I ended up losing compression and couldn't get the bike to start. I checked the gears and notice the piston wasn't moving all the time with the gears. the small gear was slipping and wasn't on tight. I put the small gear back on and with a block of wood over the gear I tapped it back on with a hammer. I got compression and the bike starts up and worked alright for a couple days. Now the bike stalls out while riding it. If I let it sit for half a fay to a day then I can probably get on decent ride on it without it stalling out, but afterwards it stalls out. if I wait a minute or so it will start back up but only go so far before it stalls out again. I checked the spark plug and it's a tan color. the fuel filter is clean and not clogged. I am wondering if anyone might know what is causing this.

Sorry for the long post, but wanted to provide as much information as possible to let you know what I have done and what's going on. Thanks in advice to all you help and give advice.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try them both out. I do have another CDI and will put that on tomorrow and see if it helps any. I have a gallon tank and had to get a new gas cap as the one that it came with leaked. The one I am using now I got it from Autozone. It doesn't leak now, but when I take the cap off sometimes I might get a little burst of pressure and/or gas coming out from it. By burst of gas coming out I mean a mist.

Here's an update on my bike. I changed the CDI and took it out for a ride today and that didn't seem to help it still stalled out. I also tried lessening the gas cap and it stalled out then as well. I did change the jet on my carburetor to the one that was in my old carburetor that leaked and had a bad float gasket and now the new carburetor leaks a little. When I stop and rub my finger under the bottom of the carb(float bowl) I can feel a light film of gas there. The only thing i did to the carburetor was change the fuel jet from a small one to a bigger one. I tightened the screws down, but I didn't try to go to hard because I didn't want to over tighten or strip them. Should I go back to the smaller jet? Before I changed the engine seemed to run alright for a day or two but then started to stall out and this was all before I changed the jet. I just changed the jet yesterday.

I am at lost as to what it can be. any help or suggestion as to what I should check would be great. Also, the engine doesn't seem like it getting the full power like it used to. Since the small gear was loss and I put it back on only with a hammer and block of wood should i get a gear puller, take it off and then put it back on tight or should I just leave it alone. I was also wondering if the woodruff key have anything to do with the enine stalling out? I don't think it would, but I am not sure. Again thanks for al your help and advice.

The fuel line is one tight with no leaks and the engine is not losing compression. When it stalls if I wait about 30-a minute I can start the engine and go a varied short distance before it stalls out again. when I take off the gas cap that I have on the tank now sometimes I might get a little mist spray of gas the sprays on the tank. It's a relatively small mist of gas that may come out of the tank. Could the small gear not being on tight enough or the woodruff key falling out or not being in place cause the engine to stall? When I checked the carburetor when I got home after my test ride this morning and it looked like the gas leak is coming from the back of the carburetor next to the air filter. The outside of the float bowl near there looked a little wet.

the petcock for this gas tank has 2 holes on the end that goes inside the tank and one that goes on outside. one of the inside holes has a filter on it and the other one just has a little hose in it. When u turn the knob to the down (on ) position the gas goes through just the hose opening and not the filter. If I turn the knob up to the top then the gas comes out the filter. I tested the petcock before I put it on by blowing in each of the holes and going through the knob positions. I have been using it in the on position which is having the gas go through the tube and not the filter. In case you forgot or didn't see in me previous post I am not using the gas tank that comes with the kit. I have a gallon gas tank that I got off ebay. Don't know if this will help, but i am in upstate NY. I am using the cheap replacement CDI. For the spark plug I am using the E3.32 spark plug. It's their replacement plug for the NGK B6HS spark plug. the spark plug boot does seem to make a tight fit over the spark plug.

I did change the jet that was on the carburetor with the bigger jet from my old carburetor (both the Runtong performance racing carb.). The reason I don't use the old carburetor is that it leaked really bad and the float gasket is shot on the old carb that I am not using. The carb I am using now didn't start leaking until I change the jet in it to a bigger jet, but still stalled out. I do still have the stock spark plug that came with the kit. I only used it for a day or two before I changed it.

The gas cap I am using is a motorad gas cap. Here is a link to the cap I have on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Motorad-MGC-8...=1411163388&sr=1-11&keywords=motorad+fuel+cap

I did fix the minor gas leak i had by making sure the float bowl gasket was properly in place and then tightening everything up. I did try draining some of my fuel to see how much fuel would come out with the gas cap on and off. I noticed that more fuel comes out when I have the cap off compared to when the cap is on. So, if I am checking things correctly I think I need a new gas cap. I still have my old cap, but the reason I got a new one is I couldn't even walk my bike when the tank was between half and full without gas leaking out the cap. If I do need a new gas cap than which one or what kind should I get. Here is the ebay link to the gas tank I have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271579236741?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Wow! I can't believe that someone had told him to put the gas and oil straight in the gas tank. I am glad it was an easy fix and wish my problem was that easy. Maybe it's something simple and easy like that, but I just haven't figured it out yet. the mixture I am running is 6oz of oil per gallon of gas. I put it in a gas can mix it up and then put it in the tank. my gas mixture shouldn't be a problem. I could drain it and try a new fresh mixture , but I don't think that would do anything. I did notice a small amount of oil near the head gasket when I started my bike up Friday evening. Would the little bit of oil I near the head gasket mean that the gasket is shot and should be replaced? I wiped the oil with a rag while still running the engine and I did get a little bit more oil show up.
I do have another engine coming that I was planning on putting on another bike. So should I just change the head gasket or should I change anything else with it? After I change the head gasket and any other parts can I run my bike like normal or should be careful with riding for a little bit ( use a little bit more oil in my mixture and keep my top spped around 20-25 and try to stay away from going full throttle for a while to let the new parts seat properly)?

Thanks for the help from everyone I appreciate it. I think I will just change the head gasket when the other engine comes in because the head gasket looked a little bent when I checked it. Also the gasket was a little tight fit getting it off and then back on. should I change anything else with it or should just changing the head gaskets be good enough? I think I will change the bolts so the stud doesn't get stuck and i don't over tighten the bolts. Would it be good to use lock washers on the head bolts as well or just the regular washer?
I'm not sure if it will come out but going to try and load a picture of my bike up on here. The picture is about a month and a half old. the only thing I added to it since this picture is a rear rack with a milk crate. the chain is a 41 roller chain which I feel works a lot better than the cheep stock chain they give you. I just need to get front brakes for it (the 29 inch Genesis Onyx Cruiser bike). right now I only have a coaster brake on it.

if you click on the picture icon in my above post it should take you to the photo of my bike I put on fb.