i have a 80/66cc engine kit that im putting on my bicycle everything seemed like it was easy to put together (although i dont have any mechanical experience i normally do carpentry work) but the engine drive chain sprocket doesnt seem to turn and now that i put the chain on my bicycle it doesnt move i can force it but i dont know if thats a bad thing to do to the engine, unsure if i just need to grease it up or something easy or if theres something else completely wrong with my engine. any tips or advise would be greatly appreciated
just ordered my first kit and already having trouble need help!!!
- Thread starter mikeygunnzz
- Start date
This sounds simple but you made no mention of pulling the clutch in. that would allow the motor drive chain to spin.
the clutch seems to be the problem. the pin sticks out about a half an inch which i think is too much bc the clutch are cant turn..also i pulled it out there in a little ball that came out with it is this supposed to be there?
yes the ball is supposed to be in there and the pin does stick out. with the cover on your clutch arm should be pointing to the back of the bike. the arm needs to be pulled to the oppisite side of the motor( towards the carb) to disengage it.
when i put the clutch cover plate on if i face the arm toward the back that seems to be the furthest that it goes i cant get it to spin past that point i dont know if i need to force it for the first time. sorry excuse that fact that i seem to know nothing about mechanics figured this would be a good project to learn .should i be able to press the pin in further with my finger if the plate it off?
The amount of force needed to disengage the clutch surprises most new builders. It's more than you can exert with hand pressure against the clutch actuator arm unless you wrap it with a rag and depress it to keep from hurting your hand. Once the clutch cable is correctly installed, no slack, you should be able to squeeze the handlebar lever and free roll the bike. There's a lot of information here on adjusting the clutch cable tension. Use the search feature, type in 'clutch cable adjustment' and you'll have lots to read on the subject. DO NOT start messing with the flower nut on the right side of the engine. You'll hear suggestions to do that but DON'T.
Good luck.
Tom
Good luck.
Tom
thanks a lot guys this has been harder than i thought it would be but also a good learning experience. i still have not got the bike started yet but i am almost there. i think i am having a problem with the spark plug it doesn't seem to snap on nicely (not sure if they are all like that). also my carb doesnt have a lever on it.but it does have a cable with a shifter, i did not see that in the manuals. if anyone has any advice on other things i should be looking at while trying to get this bije started it would be much appreciated
thanks,
mike
thanks,
mike
im not sure what you mean by the pug not snaping on but you might need to unscrew the nipple off the end that the boot goes on. if your carb has two cables coming from it that shifter attached to the carb is your choke lever the other the throttle.
sorry i meant the cap doesnt seem to sit on the spark plug nicely...but that doesnt seem to be the problem...i finally got it started and learned the hard way that chain tensioner they give you sucks when it twisted into my rim and broke my spokes....good thing bc my kill switch wasnt working correctly and i couldnt stop. i guess this is all part of the learning curve.
oh yea you will learn alot fast, abvout as fast as the kit supplied parts will fail.. your best bet is start reaserching where to get better parts. all the different sites have different stuff. check them all out. sometimes its better to get something from one and something else from others. check out the pics of my bike in my profile. Trust me it took alot of trial and error to get to where im at now. dont get discourage itll get better
First off, the spark plug...
The top of the spark plug where the wire connects is actually a screw on cap. The P.O.S. plug cap that comes with this kit does NOT fit on this cap, you need to unscrew this cap from the spark plug and then it will fit right on. Save the cap from the plug you removed because you will probably end up putting a real spark plug wire on there eventually which will need the cap on the plug.
On the carb. It sounds like you have the CNS carb, which I think everyone will agree is more difficult to work with than the older NT or Speed carb. The second cable is the "choke", which is actually an "enrichment circuit" that supplies extra gas and air instead of operating a standard choke lever.
Here is list of stuff you should have done....
First, a new gas tank generally has a lot of crap in it, it should be cleaned out before you put it on the bike and fuel it up. If you didn't do that the fuel filter will clog right away and you will have lots of problems.
Make sure you have seated the carb all the way down on the intake. The white spacer is NOT the seal, it is just the mount, the seal is the black rubber thing in the neck of the carb. Make sure the carb is pushed all the way down and that black seal is seated on the intake.
Of coarse you need to pull that cap off your spark plug and get the wire properly connected to it!
You should check that all the screws on your carb (and entire engine!) are tight, my carb was kinda loose and having lots of air leaks when I got it.
When starting the engine you will probably need a lot of throttle to get her to fire at first (was my experience). If you pedal and pop the clutch you should be able to get the engine to turn over as you ride (even if it doesnt fire), give it some throttle when its turning and see if she just doesnt fire right up!
If you have been trying to start and having problems (cause there is no spark since the plug wire isnt connected!) then you are probably flooded out badly. Turn off the gas valve, pull the spark plug and air filter and then run the bike around a bit with the throttle wide open and clutch released. This will turn over the engine rapidly (cause there is no compression) and will force out all the gas that has flooded the engine (don't let any crap get sucked or dropped into the engine while doing this!). If the plug is wet either use the spare or burn off the gas from the plug before you reinstall it. If the air cleaner has soaked gas then press it between cloth to dry it out before you reinstall it.
Pull one wire from the kill switch to make sure there is not a problem there, if you do get the engine to start for the first time I dont think getting it to stall will be a problem!
Hopefully that check list will get you started, from there you might need to tune the carb a bit, post back and we will try and help you out.....
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i am having trouble with my chain tensior as this seems to be a common problem, is there any good ones i can order online, or should i just try and shorten it enough so i dont need one, or try to make my own???
Best case scenario is you mount the motor so you dont need a chain tensioner. I was unable to do this so I still have mine. I had some problems at first but what streightened me out was replacing that little spacer (between the roller and the bracket) with a real brass bushing. With the original bushing my tensioner was always coming loose and dropping tension, looking at the flimsy spacer I could see that it was getting bent out of shape so I replaced it. After I installed the brass bushing much to my surprise my tensioner never moved again, it's been solid ever since that day....
Good luck to you...
PS I had plans to design a better tensioner, they got pushed to the back burner since my tensioner problem has gone away for now....
