Just as the title says, I am looking to get a Sick Bike Parts Shift Kit and Shimano Nexus 3 speed wheel for my beach cruiser. All in all, it would cost about $330, and I want to get some opinions on whether it is worth the cost.
Sick Bike Parts Shift Kit - is it worth the cost?
- Thread starter cschade
- Start date
Some people like the shift kits, some don't. One disadvantage is that they're harder to bumpstart. Some say they can be bumpstarted by rolling down a hill, but if you don't live near a hill that kinda doesn't work too good. But they're are a lot of people who love the shift kits, and they do seem to work reliably. As far as the nexus 3 speed, I'm not sure of the quality. I've seen a lot of people go with the sturmey hubs and never have an issue.
I think the problem with the shift kit is if you aren't careful you can destroy your rear sprocket real quick if you don't let off the power between shifts. I could see it being an advantage though if used properly, but for the price I'd just stick with what I have because it goes plenty fast and isn't a dog on the low end so personally I would never have a need for one! Would be cool if you had a MPG kind of build
YES... The quality SBP shift kit is well worth the extra money, (instead of buying a cheaper copy). 
The jury is out on whether the Nexus will handle the loading. Its a bottom end hub.
That said an IGH makes a nice shifter bike. I have both an IGH and a derailleur bike and prefer the IGH. You can always dig up and old Stumry Archer if the Nexus packs it in.
That said an IGH makes a nice shifter bike. I have both an IGH and a derailleur bike and prefer the IGH. You can always dig up and old Stumry Archer if the Nexus packs it in.
'Sick Bike Parts Shift Kit - is it worth the cost?'
They are to me.
I am on my 40th shifting build today, the previous 39 are here.
The key part of a shift kit is the bottom bracket freewheel bearing.
This is the expensive crucial part that isolates a sprocket pair from your pedal crank axle so when the engine or motor is turning the sprocket pair your pedals don't beat your legs off.
This bearing is THE crucial part, and they are not all the same.
The $20 FWB is for light use.
OK for a <500W electric or stock 48cc 2-stroke, maybe even a stock 49cc 4-stroke but I don't take the chance.
Even a stock 66cc 2-stroke will rip this bearing to shreds in short order and they don't fail pretty.
The $80 freewheel is the quality item
From the SBP page.
- - -
"Heavy duty front freewheel made exclusively for Sick Bike Parts by White Industries.
HD freewheel required if you use a slant head or other high compression head, also it is highly recommended for hard riding or larger riders.
Center hole thread is 1.37 x 24 tpi, 5 bolt pattern diameter is 2.63 inches.
Leaders in the industry for hiqh quality bicycle components. Not only are these freewheels durable but are also serviceable.
Made in the U.S.A. Six month replacement warranty"
---
That is your $60 difference in kit prices and a price I am happy to pay for something designed of this use and will hold up.
*Hat's off to the SBP for this custom bearing, and now I guess a super HD FWB is in the works for really high performance engines.
As for internal hubs for shifters I love them!
Just a fat chain straight to a single sprocket on the back wheel.
The Nexus 3-speed's have held up to everything I have managed to throw at them without failing, and I have thrown a lot.
There ARE a few downsides to a shifter as well.
They are pain in the butt to assemble.
Adjusting your left side chain tension requires disassembly.
Unless you make a tensioner, right side chain adjustment requires moving the engine mount.
As mentioned above you have no bike momentum to help you start the engine when you drop the clutch, you have to kick start the engine with your pedals and you have no back-pedal coaster brake use if equipped that way like a Nexus, you need an alternative brake.
And finally there is the 'jump stop' strategic placement on the seat post if you are using derailleur gears to keep the chain from flying off inside the sprocket when you are in 1st gear.
So are gears worth the hassle?
Like I said, they are to me.
And a 3-speed is just right for most shifting builds.
People power benefits from a lot of close gear ranges, engines don't need it.
It's your direct drives power and speed in 2nd gear, but it has a torquey low end in 1st and an overdrive speed gear in 3rd.
Hope that helps.
They are to me.
I am on my 40th shifting build today, the previous 39 are here.
The key part of a shift kit is the bottom bracket freewheel bearing.
This is the expensive crucial part that isolates a sprocket pair from your pedal crank axle so when the engine or motor is turning the sprocket pair your pedals don't beat your legs off.
This bearing is THE crucial part, and they are not all the same.
The $20 FWB is for light use.
OK for a <500W electric or stock 48cc 2-stroke, maybe even a stock 49cc 4-stroke but I don't take the chance.
Even a stock 66cc 2-stroke will rip this bearing to shreds in short order and they don't fail pretty.
The $80 freewheel is the quality item
From the SBP page.
- - -
"Heavy duty front freewheel made exclusively for Sick Bike Parts by White Industries.
HD freewheel required if you use a slant head or other high compression head, also it is highly recommended for hard riding or larger riders.
Center hole thread is 1.37 x 24 tpi, 5 bolt pattern diameter is 2.63 inches.
Leaders in the industry for hiqh quality bicycle components. Not only are these freewheels durable but are also serviceable.
Made in the U.S.A. Six month replacement warranty"
---
That is your $60 difference in kit prices and a price I am happy to pay for something designed of this use and will hold up.
*Hat's off to the SBP for this custom bearing, and now I guess a super HD FWB is in the works for really high performance engines.
As for internal hubs for shifters I love them!
Just a fat chain straight to a single sprocket on the back wheel.
The Nexus 3-speed's have held up to everything I have managed to throw at them without failing, and I have thrown a lot.
There ARE a few downsides to a shifter as well.
They are pain in the butt to assemble.
Adjusting your left side chain tension requires disassembly.
Unless you make a tensioner, right side chain adjustment requires moving the engine mount.
As mentioned above you have no bike momentum to help you start the engine when you drop the clutch, you have to kick start the engine with your pedals and you have no back-pedal coaster brake use if equipped that way like a Nexus, you need an alternative brake.
And finally there is the 'jump stop' strategic placement on the seat post if you are using derailleur gears to keep the chain from flying off inside the sprocket when you are in 1st gear.
So are gears worth the hassle?
Like I said, they are to me.
And a 3-speed is just right for most shifting builds.
People power benefits from a lot of close gear ranges, engines don't need it.
It's your direct drives power and speed in 2nd gear, but it has a torquey low end in 1st and an overdrive speed gear in 3rd.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by a moderator:
@McChicken I have no idea how many RPM the freewheel can take - I'm guessing its somewhere near the redline since it is supposed to last.
On another note, I'm the OP who originally asked if the SBP shift kit is worth the cost. After receiving mine in the mail a week ago and finishing it last night and going for a ride, I can say that the answer is a definitive YES! You have so much torque in a low gear, and when you shift into a higher gear you can cruise in the 30's easily. The engine vibrates a lot less because in high gear its running a lot lower RPMs. All in all, hats off to SBP for creating such a wonderful product!
On another note, I'm the OP who originally asked if the SBP shift kit is worth the cost. After receiving mine in the mail a week ago and finishing it last night and going for a ride, I can say that the answer is a definitive YES! You have so much torque in a low gear, and when you shift into a higher gear you can cruise in the 30's easily. The engine vibrates a lot less because in high gear its running a lot lower RPMs. All in all, hats off to SBP for creating such a wonderful product!
Is sbp shift kit worth the cost?
Well that depends on how much $$$ you havingd if you got into motorized bikeing because it's cheap and you can build a budget ride , toy/hobby for $300. If you don't use yourbike or it's just for your kid to play/brake with. Than NO! if you commute or tinker with your bike for a hobby or if 200 is not t 4 you than YES! DEFINITELY!
I was skepticale at first that the derailleur & cassette would work without skipping or changeing not smoothly. But it works great and is all thay promised! About quality don't buy the knock-off to save $40 bucks The freewheel won't last & the hardware is cheep & will strip/sheer it will cost you more in the longrun! Go with SBP i can't say enough good things about them. If you have any problems email them thay will help you out they have awesome service. All in all i LOVE mine & i'll bet you will love yours! Go 4 it.
DEFINITELY WORTH THE COST!!!!!.
Well that depends on how much $$$ you havingd if you got into motorized bikeing because it's cheap and you can build a budget ride , toy/hobby for $300. If you don't use yourbike or it's just for your kid to play/brake with. Than NO! if you commute or tinker with your bike for a hobby or if 200 is not t 4 you than YES! DEFINITELY!
I was skepticale at first that the derailleur & cassette would work without skipping or changeing not smoothly. But it works great and is all thay promised! About quality don't buy the knock-off to save $40 bucks The freewheel won't last & the hardware is cheep & will strip/sheer it will cost you more in the longrun! Go with SBP i can't say enough good things about them. If you have any problems email them thay will help you out they have awesome service. All in all i LOVE mine & i'll bet you will love yours! Go 4 it.
DEFINITELY WORTH THE COST!!!!!.
What kind of chains do you guys use? Did you change the regular bicycle chain to something stronger? I would think that a standard bicycle chain could break or get twisted after extended use.
Does one still need to engage and disengage the clutch with a shift kit being that there is a freewheel crank?
I also thoroughly recommend the SBP's shift kit - makes for a much more usable bike, though learning to start the engine and change the gears without jerking the freewheel or the chains is something that takes practise.
I have 6 sbp shift kits and I am about to order 2 more.
I have tried the older "HD" freewheels - I have 3 of them, but I have given up using them because they all have excessive freeplay and I can't seem to get them open to see why.
I like the cheap ones and they are easy to service - they are just like the rear wheel freewheel except the lock ring unscrews the other way. Sometimes the ball bearings are in cages sometimes loose. After you clean & grease the cones, stick new ball bearings in the grease and reassemble the parts the freeplay is adjusted by removing (or sometimes adding) shims (I always save the removed shims!).
All six of my cheap freewheels are on 66cc high compression engine builds with hundreds of miles done on each with no freewheel fails.
- so for me the earlier HD freewheels were a big waste of money unlike everything else I have purchased from SBP's.
N.B. Due to the expense, I haven't tried the new HD freewheels yet - I feel sure they would have addressed the freeplay problems though.
John
I have 6 sbp shift kits and I am about to order 2 more.
I have tried the older "HD" freewheels - I have 3 of them, but I have given up using them because they all have excessive freeplay and I can't seem to get them open to see why.
I like the cheap ones and they are easy to service - they are just like the rear wheel freewheel except the lock ring unscrews the other way. Sometimes the ball bearings are in cages sometimes loose. After you clean & grease the cones, stick new ball bearings in the grease and reassemble the parts the freeplay is adjusted by removing (or sometimes adding) shims (I always save the removed shims!).
All six of my cheap freewheels are on 66cc high compression engine builds with hundreds of miles done on each with no freewheel fails.
- so for me the earlier HD freewheels were a big waste of money unlike everything else I have purchased from SBP's.
N.B. Due to the expense, I haven't tried the new HD freewheels yet - I feel sure they would have addressed the freeplay problems though.
John
