Hey, power on (pun intended) Roger ;-}
The only power loss to the motor from a second coil would be that of the drag of the magnetic field produces , and would be negligible at higher rpms to the tune of less than a tenth of hp .
The drag produced is directly relational to the watts you draw.
Here is a simple test you can do with a typical household 50W incandescent light bulb using the engines secondary white coil wire.
With the engine idling hook up the white wire to it.
The engine dies.
Now with light still hooked up start it and adjust the idle higher until it will idle with the light on.
Then disconnect the light and see how high it idles and that is with only a 50W draw.
Take for instance the stock magneto rotor , it is sheets of stamped cheap china steel spot welded together with a timing slot roughly cut into it with no precision at all and timing varies all over from rotor to rotor because of it.
Wow, we must use different engine kit vendors.
I have a rotor magnet from a Skyhawk stuck to my metal filing cabinet next to my desk for testing if a bike is steel or not.
It has ~16 plates of steel with 6 rivets holding them together and precision machined including the key slot.
Heck, you use something spot welded?
I can't see how that would even be possible so maybe you just saw it wrong is all.
First of it could be made of stronger and lighter 7075 t6 aluminum instead if cheap as possible stamped steel, then it could have a neodymium magnet instead of just a cheaply magnitized section.
That would be some trick, making a magnet out of a non magnet metal.
The entire rotor is one big magnet with N and S poles.
Here is a Skyhawk brief on the whole system and how it works.
http://grubeeinc.com/Magneto Mystery.html
So what is your plan for somehow putting a neodymium magnet in your aluminum magnet?
Sorry, I just can't wrap my head around that.
then if it had a precise cut slot for the key for optimum timing , the spark intensity and power would increase leading to better fuel economy and power.
I can't wrap my head around that either.
If you have a spark a plug that fully ignites the fuel how the heck can a your improvement increase the horsepower?
That NGK spark plug I mentioned above actually does increase compression ratio as it longer.
How does it magically increase HP by somehow increasing compression ratio or increasing cylinder size too?
Again sorry, but I just can't seem to follow your logic.
Also i would like to see a better wound coil with a higher out put capabilities to go with it, this with a modified dirtbike ignition coil setup would be on par with quality to a real dirt bike or performance mo ped.
Again I just don't follow your reasoning..
Your examples are for much higher compression engines than your typical 66cc and may need a bit more power for a bigger spark and thus different spark plugs.
And how much would you be willing to pay for such a cleverly designed precision machined device, produced from only the finest materials?
Considering gasbike now has a bolt in secondary magneto for $25
http://www.gasbike.net/collections/all-bike-motor-parts/products/12v-generator
I have not tried it and it may be junk as usual, it will still suffer from the above power loss symptoms I mentioned earlier.
The stock magnets are $5, $10 for a CDI and $10 for a magneto.
$25 for the whole ignition system, $35 with an NGK plug which actually does a performance boost by increasing compression.
To continue would have to be for personal use as you can't compete against that for a system that already works great.
I did some tests not too long ago on different aftermarket CDIs...
These CDIs are designed to work with a certain 'low' voltage from the magneto... I'm sure running too many volts into one might easily cook it.
If you read my thread, you'll see that I was able to get the most powerful spark of all the units tested using stock Chinese kit parts!
And there ya have it Roger.
Improve away ;-}
(it's just luck of the draw). :/
