Remind me as to what the AH and voltage of the battery is?
Also what is the max amp pull on the controller?
Also what is the max amp pull on the controller?
Juicer 48, the Etek build
- Thread starter Flügelwagen
- Start date
This is an old topic but I simply had to chime in with my admiration of this build, you have inspired me to be even more creative with my next electric shifter builds ascetics.
One note I have for your future builds from my recent experience building shifting electrics is take advantage of clockwise electric motors and put the output on the right side for direct connection to the bicycle drive train.
I know you didn't trust a pedal crank freewheel and back in 2001 when this topic was made that was true, but there are much heavier HD freewheels now.
They aren't cheap at $80 plus $25 for the mating crank arm set but pretty damn slick mechanically as no failures yet to 5HP, and no need for a Jackshaft.
As mentioned I absolutely love your creativity on this build, double thumbs up and kudos bud. The Cadillac begged for what I did but my next one will look as much like a gas motor as I can get it with no metal tools or skills hehehe ;-}
One note I have for your future builds from my recent experience building shifting electrics is take advantage of clockwise electric motors and put the output on the right side for direct connection to the bicycle drive train.
I know you didn't trust a pedal crank freewheel and back in 2001 when this topic was made that was true, but there are much heavier HD freewheels now.
They aren't cheap at $80 plus $25 for the mating crank arm set but pretty damn slick mechanically as no failures yet to 5HP, and no need for a Jackshaft.
As mentioned I absolutely love your creativity on this build, double thumbs up and kudos bud. The Cadillac begged for what I did but my next one will look as much like a gas motor as I can get it with no metal tools or skills hehehe ;-}
KC,
Thanks for the kudos, bud. I checked out your builds and they are tight! My fave is the camo felt build;
As for your suggestions, I take them to heart. This 48v build does have the output on the right side, but still uses a jackshaft. The freewheel crank idea is one I am considering for the next gen Juicer 36, but I still don't trust even the upgraded part for the massive amounts of power the Etek puts out. In this case, failure modes are worth considering. If the pawls seize you could end up with the pedals chopping up your lower extremities.
Keep on keepin on.
Thanks for the kudos, bud. I checked out your builds and they are tight! My fave is the camo felt build;
As for your suggestions, I take them to heart. This 48v build does have the output on the right side, but still uses a jackshaft. The freewheel crank idea is one I am considering for the next gen Juicer 36, but I still don't trust even the upgraded part for the massive amounts of power the Etek puts out. In this case, failure modes are worth considering. If the pawls seize you could end up with the pedals chopping up your lower extremities.
Keep on keepin on.
Well, I haven't really seen any HD freewheels fails but on the one regular duty one that failed the pedals just spun free so you couldn't pedal.
I would sumize that on an electric if one did fail and the pawls stuck all you would have to do is just let off the throttle.
The motor stops and the rear freewheel would just spin free, hence no ankle smashing pedal action ;-}
One really important note about those freewheels with matching crank arm...
Near as I can tell only one outfit even make the special tool you need to get a crank arm back out of one after it has been used and it is virtually useless.
I have a good freewheel bearing with a trashed crank arm, and trached regular duty freewheel with a good crank arm and none of us can get either one separated because the tool sucks.
Just a heads up...
Having smoked a number of freewheels (both HD & regular ones), I thought I should mention they don't always fail so "the pedals just spun free" & in fact sometimes (usually) the pawls & remnants thereof bind up and lock the unit both forward & back... sometimes intermittently, usually completely.
Which ofc means the pedal cranks will spin with the engine/wheel, but on the other hand while disconcerting and problematic there's very little chance of "ankle smashing pedal action" as the initial bind up will kick your feet off & clear of the pedals every time. You'd have to deliberately stick a leg into the pedal's path to have it hit & even then due to the gearing they're not spinning all that fast, you'll get a bruise... maybe.
Naturally, there's ways this could still be disastrous, standing in a turn comes to mind for example - but every freewheel that's failed on me so far has given warnings , they'll start momentarily "twitching", small but distinct pushes against the arch of your foot right before they fail completely.
I would not recommend ignoring that warning lol
As for "the special tool sucks" ...actually having used it a number of times I can safely say the castellated socket/freewheel bearing removal tool works quite well - if you put the crank arm in a vice & use a pneumatic impact wrench, by hand there's too much offset leverage & it's on there way too tight.
If you still dislike the "special tool" offered, there's castellated sockets sold individually and in sets of all shapes & sizes by hardware stores & tool suppliers, a quick keyword search will provide plenty of returns... but you may not like the prices lol
Having smoked a number of freewheels (both HD & regular ones), I thought I should mention they don't always fail so "the pedals just spun free" & in fact sometimes (usually) the pawls & remnants thereof bind up and lock the unit both forward & back... sometimes intermittently, usually completely.
Which ofc means the pedal cranks will spin with the engine/wheel, but on the other hand while disconcerting and problematic there's very little chance of "ankle smashing pedal action" as the initial bind up will kick your feet off & clear of the pedals every time. You'd have to deliberately stick a leg into the pedal's path to have it hit & even then due to the gearing they're not spinning all that fast, you'll get a bruise... maybe.
Naturally, there's ways this could still be disastrous, standing in a turn comes to mind for example - but every freewheel that's failed on me so far has given warnings , they'll start momentarily "twitching", small but distinct pushes against the arch of your foot right before they fail completely.
I would not recommend ignoring that warning lol
As for "the special tool sucks" ...actually having used it a number of times I can safely say the castellated socket/freewheel bearing removal tool works quite well - if you put the crank arm in a vice & use a pneumatic impact wrench, by hand there's too much offset leverage & it's on there way too tight.
If you still dislike the "special tool" offered, there's castellated sockets sold individually and in sets of all shapes & sizes by hardware stores & tool suppliers, a quick keyword search will provide plenty of returns... but you may not like the prices lol
A faculty member at Art Center in Pasadena invited me and the Juicer 48 to the 2012 Car Classic. The theme was "Inspired Design." It was a huge thrill, lining up between some very rare vintage conveyances. Syd Mead, the Blade-Runner designer was there. And since it was in LA and had something to do with cars, that "comedian" from the Tonite Show showed up in a jet-powered car (I guess he didn't want to attract attention).
Also, I should mention that there is a new Juicer 48, the "Ranger" which boasts a 28+ mile range (not bad for an ebike). It is now for sale at Hollywood Electrics.
Also, I should mention that there is a new Juicer 48, the "Ranger" which boasts a 28+ mile range (not bad for an ebike). It is now for sale at Hollywood Electrics.
Congratulations for the recognition you are receiving and for the continuing evolution of your design. You took the ebike to a whole new level and keep making it better and better. Well done, sir!
SB
SB
